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I’ve noticed some oil in vacuum hose for my Procharger BOV so I’m thinking I’ve probably got my Mighty Mouse catch can hooked up wrong.
Silly question, but does this nipple vent oil:
If so, then I am assuming that it also should not see boost (so a one way valve is needed?
Also would it be best to tee this into the line that comes from the valve cover so that my setup is sort of like this:
Yellow = oil/vapour
Green = vacuum
Blue = MM catch can
This way the vacuum from the intake manifold is pulling oil from both the valve cover and the crank case, but under boost no positive pressure enters the crankcase or valve cover
Thanks for the link. I remember reading this when setting it all up. I think I’ve been taking stupid pills though because I can read it ten times over and just not quite understand it
To confirm...
Now is time to inspect the fresh air side of the system. Either the passenger valve cover front (wet sump) OR the oil tank front (dry sump port) will or should have a connection to your air box CAI, s/c or turbo inlet tubing. This is your PCV air supply line. If you do not have this you need to add one, if you do have one you need to make sure it works, because some are dead-headed by the aftermarket. If this passage is blocked it needs to be UN-Blocked for proper pcv system function. If you do not have a place for clean air to get IN while you are drawing the foul air OUT unusual side effects like squealing (air finding it’s own way in), or higher oil consumption from excessive crankcase vacuum may occur.
Does thre pic below satisfy the above? The air filter nipple was originally going to the air intake box (I no longer have an intake).
You can relocate the valley plate port (lower) to where the driver valve cover connected previously, or cap off.
This I understand, and as you say it means I can cap it off.
If this goes to the dry sump, you should remove the assembly from the valve for free flow in both directions. You can also instead Tee this line straight from the rear ‘sidekick’ oil tank to the rear line of the main oil tank.
This I don’t understand at all, and as I’m a dry sump it has me
concerned.
So the first picture you showed the fitting on the drivers side manifold.
That one can alternatively be plugged or vented to the air cleaner/intake.
On the passenger side coming out of the tank I’m not certain.
It seems like the set up you have would mist a lot of oil.
I would recommend reaching out to MM and get his perspective on it.
He’s a very knowledgeable guy and can get you pointed in the correct direction.
On my N/A C7 I chose to vent the crankcase to atmoshere with a breather on each valve cover Then I have a catch can on the other side of the PCV system that goes into the T-Body
So far it works great NO oil misting in the engine compartment and even after an oil change less than 1 once of oil in the cam
I’ve noticed some oil in vacuum hose for my Procharger BOV so I’m thinking I’ve probably got my Mighty Mouse catch can hooked up wrong.
Silly question, but does this nipple vent oil:
If so, then I am assuming that it also should not see boost (so a one way valve is needed?
That nipple is the PCV valve in the valley of the LT1. As the engine came from the factory, it is connected to the vacuum of the intake manifold.
You will be best advised by contacting David at Mighty Mouse before experimenting with the advice you receive here. Keep your seals intact by venting properly.
that fitting is sometimes capped sometimes repurposed. depending on what your target issues and goals are.
post here or send me your current installation and order # if you have it and i'll tell you what is right or wrong with it mightymousesolutions@gmail.com
that fitting is sometimes capped sometimes repurposed. depending on what your target issues and goals are.
post here or send me your current installation and order # if you have it and i'll tell you what is right or wrong with it mightymousesolutions@gmail.com
Hey David, I think I found an email that you sent me over a year ago when I first purchased the catch can. Is this still a valid setup if my goals are 1000whp?
The only difference with my setup is that I do not have a hose going from the dry sump oil filler to the supercharger inlet (because my supercharger runs without a filter). Instead I have a small air filter on that nipple. I assume that all it needs is fresh air?
looks good! valley can be capped if you have both p/s lines heading to the tank
Why wouldn’t you just tee the valley port into the driver side valve cover line where it goes into the dirty side of the catch can, instead of capping off the valley port, so you can add another means of venting the crankcase and keep your front crank seal from leaking oil when turning up engine timing, which tuners ultimately do when adding Methanol into the mix
Why wouldn’t you just tee the valley port into the driver side valve cover line where it goes into the dirty side of the catch can, instead of capping off the valley port, so you can add another means of venting the crankcase and keep your front crank seal from leaking oil when turning up engine timing, which tuners ultimately do when adding Methanol into the mix
Interested to hear the answer to this.
Personally I refused to cap off the valley port. Instead I've just put a little air filter on top of it to allow it to vent to atmos. if it needs to.
the pcv system must have its intake manifold vacuum application regulated. this regulation is the job of the pcv valve /orifice. merging other lines/ pcv valves with this will change (upset) desired pcv flow, resulting in abnormal effects like increased pcv flow, increased oil consumption, too much vacuum in the crankcase, erratic idle, throttle hanging, prolonged engine decel and probably more. this is the amount of air allowed to go around the throttle blade, and IMO we should keep it very near to how gm determined it, at least not changing it without being very careful.
further, this port, be it an external valve like older models, or one screwed in, built in, to the valley cover or passenger valve cover are heavily restricted (they are flow regulators as above) and absolutely flow poorly at low differentials, such as a reasonable engine crankcase pressures. feel free to test this yourself by removing the oil cap, hooking a hose to each of these ports. you will find plumbing them for the purpose of crankcase pressure stabilization to be a waste of time.
PCV System question
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