Helping a friend with a 2016 Z51 Stingray. We have determined that the drivers side wheel bearing has excessive play in it and is making an awful noise.

I have searched the C7 section to see about changing the rear wheel hub and nothing seems to come up. I have changed the rears on my C5 which is a relatively strait forward process. Does anyone know if it is the same for a C7?
We are looking at replacing both rear hubs with Timken hubs (HA590569). Any reason to buy the more expensive ACDelco?

Thanks

Gary

 

I would expect it to be similar. There is a small sensor that connects to the lower control arm with a small linkage that might get damaged when you disconnect the upper control arm and pull the drive shaft spline out of the bearing. Also, the axle nut is cold chiseled into a keyway groove, so you will need a new axle nut. you will need to take a small punch and grind an angle on the tip to drive the axle nut deformed area for removal of the nut. Once you get the little stuff safely out of the way, and the shaft nut off, the upper control arm should move enough so the splined shaft comes out of the hub. I would try to avoid pulling the other end of the axle out of the diff, to avoid diff oil leaks and risk damaging the seal. However if the diff seal is leaking this would be a good time to replace. My C5 loved to eat that seal, but so far, no leaks on the C7

I've had my upper control arm loose several times to pull/replace the shim washers for alignment. Pretty much the same as a C5/C6 except there is a cooling duct that is really close back there, but there are only a few small screws holding it on. It will need to be removed, as it holds the flex brake line to the caliper close to the knuckle.

As far as ACDelco vs Timken, My guess is they are the same, ACD probably repackages and charges more for the red/white/blue box. If just a street car, then I would probably go Timken.

 

Unless the B2B warranty has expired that is a warranty replacement. I don't know the difference between the AC Delco and the Timken but I do know the GM bearing design has improved significantly since the C5 and early C6 days. The new GM bearings are more like the SKF bearings that were recommended for heavy duty use on the C5s and early C6s. I have been beating the hell out of my wheel bearings on my Z06 with lots of track miles using the stock R compound Cup2 tires, Hoosiers and Pirelli Slicks and at the end of three season haven't found a loose one yet.

You can purchase the GM bearings from Cultrag Factory Parts for $123.13 plus shipping.
https://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/...YtMmwtdjgtZ2Fz
Bill

 

When I had my brakes off recently, the OEM bearings are actually stamped with SKF. Just a point of data.

 

I think I would go with stock Vs the Timkens then. The Timkens may be the rebranded SKF bearings as well but who knows for sure.

Bill

 

Good to know. I tracked a Nissan 350Z for several years and that car liked to chew thru front bearings (Timkens) at what I considered a high rate. I could only get about 2 years out of set. This was on .5" wider wheels and RE-71s which are sticky but no where near R compounds. I was also running up sized 14" dual piston brakes off a 370Z.

 

Thanks for the information. Good to know about the axle nuts. The Timken hubs have been ordered, we are replacing both hubs for good measure.
Going to be doing the brakes on it at the same time. Should be a good Saturday's worth of work to complete.

Gary

 

Anyone have any additional information on replacing the hubs?

Gary

 

Well, got the bearings replaced. Not too bad of a job. Very similar to doing the work on a C5 or C6.
Took about 2 hrs a side for the hubs. The only bad part was the lower mounting bolt, which is the same issue on the C5/6, is too close to the lower ball joint nut/stud.

Gary

 

Hi Gary

Thanks for posting this topic. Lots of information on these forums for related items, but its all very fragmented. In my case I'm looking to replace my wheel lug studs with ARP studs. The fronts are very easy and only really require removing the caliper and rotors, but the rear are quite a bit more difficult. So far my research seems to lead to having to remove the rear hub and it appears you've completed this process.

I have a few questions related to the procedure:

- Do you have to disconnect the upper control arm and lower control arm to get the hub removed? I've seen a few posters indicate that you only need to loosen the LCA and move it down to expose the lower hub bolt while others have stated you need to pretty much take everything apart.
- Did you replace the axle nuts?
- Any idea on the torque values for fasteners you had to tighten back down?

I greatly appreciate any further details you can offer.

-Chris