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okay guys! I need some technical analysis from you mechanics out there. I have a 2016 c7 with 30k miles with long tube headers and tune. The headers were put on a year ago and I have had no problems.
My car started to idle rough on occassion a few weeks ago and now the check engine light is on. I need some help diagnosing the problem. Trying to figure out if I need to take it to the dealership, the tuner, or fix it myself if it is just an 02 sensor.
Note: data says 0 volts on sensor but when I’m running the car it jumps from 0 - .74 sporadically. Other stays a solid Idle 2k rpm
So you have no CATs on the car and no rear O2 sensors? Did your tuner put all the rear O2 sensors and CAT codes to sleep? Have you burned a wire on the front O2 sensors?
Inspect your front O2 sensors. It's likely that one of them has just failed or possibly one has a burnt wire or was rubbing on something and finally failed. If I were in your shoes first thing I would do is get under the car and inspect the sensors and wires. Then if I saw damage I would replace the sensor, if I saw no damage I would still replace the sensor. It's cheap and easy enough to do yourself.
No Cats and all the rear sensors have been disabled. That is what I thought but I monitored the volts on the Bank 1 & 2 sensors on the way to work today and they both were getting volts and looking consistant. I would assume a burned wire as well but why would my short/long term fuel trim be so out of wack? I also monitored that on the way to work this morning and it stayed between +-5%
I wouldn't bother purchasing an O2 Sensor until the wiring is checked. O2 sensors don't fail that often. Since people were working in that area when installing your headers the wiring is more likely the issue or maybe somebody caused some physical damage to the sensor.
I wouldn't bother purchasing an O2 Sensor until the wiring is checked. O2 sensors don't fail that often. Since people were working in that area when installing your headers the wiring is more likely the issue or maybe somebody caused some physical damage to the sensor.
Bill
Got under the car and poked around at the wires. Everything looked good, nothing cut or burnt. Oddly enough when I turned the car back on the Engine Light went off. Maybe it was a poor connection?
Got under the car and poked around at the wires. Everything looked good, nothing cut or burnt. Oddly enough when I turned the car back on the Engine Light went off. Maybe it was a poor connection?
Very well could have been. Keep an eye on your scan tool and make sure the O2 in question doesn't become "lazy" at any point in regards to switching. It should be going up to near 800-900mv and back down to near 0-100mv on a regular basis just like the one on the bank that isn't throwing a code. If it is lazy then the sensor is likely failing.
Engine light on
