0bbbvettes.com

i would think stage 0 rear is a bad idea as it makes lift. I think a stage 1 or 2 rear with a stage 3 front is the way to go personally.

fatsport

I'm using stage 3 with the bridge at the lowest position also. I came to this after 10 track days this spring, trying from stage 1 to stage 3. I should say that I have stage 3 installed, and maybe someday I'll use it to its fullest potential.
An example of how little we use it, here's Jade Buford running Sebring in 2:16. Met the owner of the car at the time, he said it had stage 1 aero, albeit with Z07 springs.

Although I think my car is faster in the straights with less aero, I still have plenty of speed. I'm faster at the end of the front straight than he is. Also, pulling 1.25 Gs in the turns I feel more comfortable with the aero on.

range96

I assume the 320/260/300/80 are theoretical maximum values and the little bars toward the top are the warning levels. Anyone can confirm?

BrunoTheMellow

Manual car goes into limp mode at 263 coolant. Oil only reads up to 302 according to gspeed so the 320 limit is useless unless later year cars were updated.

I don't know what the other temps and pressure sensors actually max at.

badhabit_wb

Jade is a great driver and a good coach. He rode with me both days at the last Chin event that I attended and had some good tips for me. I feel more comfortable with the aero at VIR it really keeps the car planted in the upper esses.

fatsport

No doubt the aero helps in the esses.
Quote from Car and Driver when they ran the Z in the Lightning Lap: In the Z06 you enter at 134.8 mph,(esses) average 128.4 mph, and leave going 122.6 mph while cornering at 1.47 g’s.

village idiot

Aero definitely helps, especially at 130mph, But having more imbalanced aero isn't necessarily a good thing. Adding a ton of rear grip on an already understeering car isn't really going to help much.

BTW: a lot of that grip is the Cup2

badhabit_wb

You can enter at 140 and exit at 130 as well with cups and aero. I did it once and toned it down afterwards. I was trying to catch up to another car and almost ran out of talent.lol

X25

Alignment is just finished; I was able to hit -3 with the new lowered front!!
Results:

• Camber/Caster/Toe (in degrees)
• -3 / 7.9 / 0.00 Front
• -2 / 0.8 / 0.05 Rear

The new non-Z07 brake booster is going in right now. I've decided to install the SS lines myself later, to see what the impact of the new brake booster is on the pedal by itself. I am expecting it to restore my soft pedal problem. If it does, I'm going to shout in the forums asking why no-one noticed this when they switched from CCB brakes to an iron setup : )

X25

From the other thread:
I am still in shock that no one mentioned this anywhere else, including the vendors. Anyway, I still have the SS brake lines in hand. I'll install them as well, and see if they improve the brake feel even further. Finally, after a few more track days, I will also try out the Castrol SRF, and see if it makes any impact. Regardless, the brakes now feel pretty good as is; I'm very happy about that : )

BrunoTheMellow

I don't think this would have by just switching to iron rotors. Would it ?

This is so weird. It has to be the different rear caliper pistons as the fronts are identical area (just further out on the disc)

range96

I'm also surprised of your findings. I wonder what makes it different with the booster, a larger vacuum diaphragm or just different valving internally, different linkage or a less restrictive vacuum orifice. Would love to hear someone experiencing with the stronger booster with CCB rotors. Was there an adjustment necessary on the brake pedal linkage during the booster installation?

X25

The initial bite with the CCB brakes is much higher. This change might be merely done to compensate for that. Well, you can always "Ask Tadge".

Haven't tried it at the track, but it now builds up enough pressure with much less pedal movement at the street. With the other booster, it felt like I had a dead initial spot, where I felt that the brakes are engaging, but just not as strong as you'd like. Keep in mind, I have race pads (ST43) in there. It was predictably even worse with OEM pads.


To be honest, this even made me wonder if I could use RX8 brake booster on my NC Miata : p

range96

I'm not planning to swap out the CCB to iron rotors.

I'm asking so I can accurately diagnose a soft pedal on my other car. (No visible external leak, no air in the system, no improvement after new master cylinder).

djnice

Since no one else has had this issue. Maybe there was something wrong with the original brake booster?

X25

Let's open up on that: do you know of anyone who's switched to OEM Z06 system from OEM CCBs? I don't know of anyone else myself. FYI, my brakes are stock Z06 iron system, including the lines.

Most forum members you see here move on to an aftermarket BBK system (AP Racing, etc) when they want to move on from CCBs, and all those kits come with SS braided brake lines and also possibly race pads. Now, when you switch to a system like that, how do you know how they should feel? Whatever they feel to you, you'd likely assume that's how they should feel.

In my case, I first started with a C7 Z51, upgraded its brake system to OEM Z06 iron brakes identical to what I currently have on this car, and had great experience with them. Once I did the very same switch on this car, since I was already experienced in the setup, I was able to see the difference, and knew it was not as good as it should be. Now that I've changed the booster, it feels EXACTLY same as my older Z51 car's brakes.

If you think about it, it makes sense. GM is not able to reduce the very high friction coefficient of the rotors and pads, since carbon brakes have naturally high friction. Instead, lowering the boost a bit to get it less touchy would make complete sense to me.

As a verdict, for those who switched to aftermarket BBKs from OEM CCBs, they can likely improve their brake feel and possibly feedback by switching to this booster : )

X25

RR tires will be mounted on my wheel set #2, tomorrow. The new front (R7) tires for my set #1 will be here on Tuesday. I intend to go to RMP on Wednesda with the RR tires, my new alignment, more rake, and better brakes; looking forward to seeing how it pans out! I will have the new R7s mounted up front later next week, and hoping to use them at ORP on the following Saturday. Busy week!


Toyo RRs 315/30/18, 345/30/19. The 345 size is new.

range96

I believe your CCB booster feels mushy with iron rotors. The question is that is that caused by a stronger or weaker booster? CCB brakes are better to handle the heat, I don't think their friction coefficiency is better. The rotors look almost like mirrors when new.

X25

Back when I supercharged it, I used a carbon clutch on my Miata to much increase the torque capacity. The unit was based on an OEM unit, and as such, had identical springs and pedal hardness. Even though it didn't have any stiffer pressure plate, though, the clamping was much higher, about doubling the torque rating for when it starts slipping.

Not to be confused with dust free carbon ceramic brake pads that are mated to iron rotors, carbon to carbon systems have always been significantly more grabby in my experience.

range96

That certainly would support a weaker CCB Booster scenario.

Perfectly clear on ceramic pads, I wouldn't use them.