'19 Z06 Z07 track build thread
02-27-2019, 03:12 PM
#121
Regarding rotors:
In short, I think using the best rotors always make sense. They will have directional vanes (unlike OEM Z06 2-piece) that cool, sucking air, not causing turbulence, their metallurgy will allow them to stay stiffer when hot, and you might save weight as well, especially in the rear, where GM rightfully used an iron hub (not aluminum) to support the handbrake.
- I'm sure noone cares much for slots, holes, etc. If anything, holes compromise the structure, makes it easier for cracks to move on.
- I personally like slots, since I know it is time to change when they have disappeared (if the rotor is not cracked already by then).
- 2-piece rotors make a huge difference (what ZL1 1LE has as well). They allow the much hotter outer ring to expand more than the hub area, keeping the rotor straight(not concaved!), and much reduces the stress, reducing chances of larger cracks, not to mention the big help in cooling from inside the ring.
In short, I think using the best rotors always make sense. They will have directional vanes (unlike OEM Z06 2-piece) that cool, sucking air, not causing turbulence, their metallurgy will allow them to stay stiffer when hot, and you might save weight as well, especially in the rear, where GM rightfully used an iron hub (not aluminum) to support the handbrake.
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RapidC84B (02-27-2019)
02-27-2019, 03:25 PM
#122
Not to further hijack X25's thread, but I have the DBA basic rears and the 2-part fronts in boxes waiting for my car. Eventually I'll install them and add the my thread in the RR section.
02-27-2019, 03:39 PM
#123
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Nice thread.
1. I'm 99% sure the caliper bolts are not TTY, but listed as one-time use due to the thread locker. My 2014 FSM does not mention TTY bolts. Regardless I love nordlocks and used them all over my C5 race car because you no longer have to use thread-lock. Did you still torque the bolts to OEM spec with the nordlock? If you have spares for the front and rear I'd love to buy a set off you.
2. Lots of folks basing the Z51 rotors. I have a 2014 with the original "2-part" cast rotors. 4 HPDE weekends instructing last year with Carbotech 12/10 F/R and they're no where close to min thickness. I have DBAs waiting to go on but have not had to swap them yet. I think the later cars have the standard 1-part rotors like the older C5/6 which are far more prone to cracking.
3. I looked at the sharkbar, but went with the brey krause because the sharkbar is way too low for me and has the belt angles too high. Looks cleaner than the BK though.
4. Where'd you get that nice fluid syringe? I need one. My turkey baster is on it's last leg and the last syringe I got had the plastic craze very quickly when exposed to brake/clutch fluid.
Thanks!
1. I'm 99% sure the caliper bolts are not TTY, but listed as one-time use due to the thread locker. My 2014 FSM does not mention TTY bolts. Regardless I love nordlocks and used them all over my C5 race car because you no longer have to use thread-lock. Did you still torque the bolts to OEM spec with the nordlock? If you have spares for the front and rear I'd love to buy a set off you.
2. Lots of folks basing the Z51 rotors. I have a 2014 with the original "2-part" cast rotors. 4 HPDE weekends instructing last year with Carbotech 12/10 F/R and they're no where close to min thickness. I have DBAs waiting to go on but have not had to swap them yet. I think the later cars have the standard 1-part rotors like the older C5/6 which are far more prone to cracking.
3. I looked at the sharkbar, but went with the brey krause because the sharkbar is way too low for me and has the belt angles too high. Looks cleaner than the BK though.
4. Where'd you get that nice fluid syringe? I need one. My turkey baster is on it's last leg and the last syringe I got had the plastic craze very quickly when exposed to brake/clutch fluid.
Thanks!
3. Yeah, Sharkbar looks nicer, and I'm only 5'10", and it worked with the stock seats. It might not fit as well with everyone.
4. Syringe as in the little thing I use for clutch? It's Mix-mizer, and costs $3.37 : ) ( ).
Last edited by X25; 02-27-2019 at 03:40 PM.
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RapidC84B (02-27-2019)
02-27-2019, 03:47 PM
#124
Yeah the OEM spec is like 130 ft/lbs front and 85ish rear; don't have exact handy. Did you just go PFT with the nordlock? I'm too OCD to just use PFT these days... I like torque specs 
On my C5 racecar I found the caliper bolt nordlock teeth would wear out after a few cycles when torquing to the OEM 125ish. I guess you could just use arbitrary lower values like 60 rear and 100 front.
On my C5 racecar I found the caliper bolt nordlock teeth would wear out after a few cycles when torquing to the OEM 125ish. I guess you could just use arbitrary lower values like 60 rear and 100 front.
02-27-2019, 03:52 PM
#125
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Yeah the OEM spec is like 130 ft/lbs front and 85ish rear; don't have exact handy. Did you just go PFT with the nordlock? I'm too OCD to just use PFT these days... I like torque specs On my C5 racecar I found the caliper bolt nordlock teeth would wear out after a few cycles when torquing to the OEM 125ish. I guess you could just use arbitrary lower values like 60 rear and 100 front.
On my C5 racecar I found the caliper bolt nordlock teeth would wear out after a few cycles when torquing to the OEM 125ish. I guess you could just use arbitrary lower values like 60 rear and 100 front.
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RapidC84B (02-27-2019)
02-27-2019, 04:33 PM
#126
02-27-2019, 04:35 PM
#127
That's a silly figure... probably the spec for that size bolt out of an engineering manual. Like the C5 lower rear shock mount was 140ish... absolutely no need for that much torque. Fun fact on the race car I and fellow racers would leave that nut just snug and put a cotter pin in the bolt to keep ti from backing off. You wanted the shock to be able to rotate naturally.
02-27-2019, 04:42 PM
#128
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
That's a silly figure... probably the spec for that size bolt out of an engineering manual. Like the C5 lower rear shock mount was 140ish... absolutely no need for that much torque. Fun fact on the race car I and fellow racers would leave that nut just snug and put a cotter pin in the bolt to keep ti from backing off. You wanted the shock to be able to rotate naturally.
I actually had a caliper bolt got loose on me, and the danger is real. On my Camaro, the top left rear caliper bolt fell off, and it banged on the rotors each time I pushed brakes before I realized. That was actually when I decided to use Nordlock washers for any bolt critical and subject to vibrations.These solutions are expensive, and OEMs instead rely on threadlock, and high torque. All that torque is not needed for the operation of the caliper at all (since the forces are reciprocal), but are meant to keep that bolt in that hole. These washers solve the problem, and is a small investment considering the potential danger.
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RapidC84B (02-27-2019)
02-27-2019, 05:05 PM
#129
+1, you definitely don't need that much up front with fancy washers.
I actually had a caliper bolt got loose on me, and the danger is real. On my Camaro, the top left rear caliper bolt fell off, and it banged on the rotors each time I pushed brakes before I realized. That was actually when I decided to use Nordlock washers for any bolt critical and subject to vibrations.These solutions are expensive, and OEMs instead rely on threadlock, and high torque. All that torque is not needed for the operation of the caliper at all (since the forces are reciprocal), but are meant to keep that bolt in that hole. These washers solve the problem, and is a small investment considering the potential danger.
I actually had a caliper bolt got loose on me, and the danger is real. On my Camaro, the top left rear caliper bolt fell off, and it banged on the rotors each time I pushed brakes before I realized. That was actually when I decided to use Nordlock washers for any bolt critical and subject to vibrations.These solutions are expensive, and OEMs instead rely on threadlock, and high torque. All that torque is not needed for the operation of the caliper at all (since the forces are reciprocal), but are meant to keep that bolt in that hole. These washers solve the problem, and is a small investment considering the potential danger.
03-01-2019, 05:58 AM
#130
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Finally had some time to put on the new wheels and tires.
Signature SV502 wheels at 18"x11" ET38 , 19"x13" ET56. They measured very close to 21 lbs, and 23 lbs.
Finally received the tires as well, and it was time go get them mounted.
The wider wheels look very pretty with the wide-body offsets!
As a new experiment, I'll be covering all the wheel balance weights with this tape. It's supposed to be resistant to heat, and we'll see!
As you can see, the wheel balancing weights are taped.
Went out for a test drive at 34 degrees F. I didn't have a good road to test out the second gear (mostly due to car making so much noise, and too many cars/people around), but it hooked on all my WOT attempts on 3rd; so far so good!
I am sourcing the wheel-color hub inserts, so the labeling will not stick out as much as it does right now.
Signature SV502 wheels at 18"x11" ET38 , 19"x13" ET56. They measured very close to 21 lbs, and 23 lbs.
Finally received the tires as well, and it was time go get them mounted.
The wider wheels look very pretty with the wide-body offsets!
As a new experiment, I'll be covering all the wheel balance weights with this tape. It's supposed to be resistant to heat, and we'll see!
As you can see, the wheel balancing weights are taped.
Went out for a test drive at 34 degrees F. I didn't have a good road to test out the second gear (mostly due to car making so much noise, and too many cars/people around), but it hooked on all my WOT attempts on 3rd; so far so good!
I am sourcing the wheel-color hub inserts, so the labeling will not stick out as much as it does right now.
Last edited by X25; 03-01-2019 at 12:47 PM.
03-01-2019, 06:56 AM
#131
Only 1 picture worked.
03-01-2019, 12:48 PM
#133
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Arrg! Fixed!
03-02-2019, 11:41 PM
#135
Melting Slicks
What color are the signature wheels?
03-02-2019, 11:45 PM
#136
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
They're Glossy Gunmetal. Glossy makes is easier to clean, stronger against nicks, and gunmetal blends in best with dirt and brake pad rust : )
Last edited by X25; 03-02-2019 at 11:45 PM.
03-02-2019, 11:56 PM
#137
Melting Slicks
I have the SV103 brushed black, but looks more bronze than black.
Here is photo from my album.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b1277fc581.jpg
Here is photo from my album.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...b1277fc581.jpg
Last edited by djnice; 03-02-2019 at 11:57 PM.
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Z06Norway (04-03-2019)
03-02-2019, 11:59 PM
#138
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
That looks like a very nice color, too!!!
03-19-2019, 02:17 AM
#139
Sr.Random input generator
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, our March 22nd track day was canceled. Looks like the first day that works will be April 6th : (
Anyhow, I just realized that the new track dashboard also shows the MAX of each bar during first switch to the display:
320 (Oil), 260 (Coolant), 300 (Transmission), 80 (Oil pressure)
Anyhow, I just realized that the new track dashboard also shows the MAX of each bar during first switch to the display:
Last edited by X25; 03-19-2019 at 02:19 AM.
03-19-2019, 12:24 PM
#140
Unfortunately, our March 22nd track day was canceled. Looks like the first day that works will be April 6th : (
Anyhow, I just realized that the new track dashboard also shows the MAX of each bar during first switch to the display:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwTSdRZ36cw
320 (Oil), 260 (Coolant), 300 (Transmission), 80 (Oil pressure)
Anyhow, I just realized that the new track dashboard also shows the MAX of each bar during first switch to the display:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwTSdRZ36cw
320 (Oil), 260 (Coolant), 300 (Transmission), 80 (Oil pressure)