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Anyone ever replace the c7 rear sprng. Just finished the front. Rear, I apparently have to lower the crossmember and support transmission because I can't get the LCA bolt off. Any other way or trick? And no. 1 side upper control arm removal doesn't give enough slack (I saw that this is how c5c6 can be done).
I know when I put the AMT camber kit on you could cut the heads off the old bolts and then insert the new bolts with the camber kit in from the other side without dropping the cradle. I don't know if this will work if you order new OEM eccentric bolts.
I know when I put the AMT camber kit on you could cut the heads off the old bolts and then insert the new bolts with the camber kit in from the other side without dropping the cradle. I don't know if this will work if you order new OEM eccentric bolts.
That's a good idea. Maybe I'll go get a new one from the dealer in the morning and see if my dremmel can reach all around. If I flip the eccentric bolt I might mess up the alignment I'm trying not to mess ip.
That's a good idea. Maybe I'll go get a new one from the dealer in the morning and see if my dremmel can reach all around. If I flip the eccentric bolt I might mess up the alignment I'm trying not to mess ip.
I used a sawz all to cut mine out. If you don't want to mess up the alignment I would just drop the cradle. According to the shop manual link posted above the C7 has a guide pin that should keep the alignment from changing as long as you are not changing the cradle. However, if you are going with a stiffer spring that could raise the car and change the static alignment anyway.
I'm watching this with interest and would love to see a longer write-up on your experience when you're done. I actually bought a used GM leaf spring tool to be able to swap out springs on the new project car.
I used a sawz all to cut mine out. If you don't want to mess up the alignment I would just drop the cradle. According to the shop manual link posted above the C7 has a guide pin that should keep the alignment from changing as long as you are not changing the cradle. However, if you are going with a stiffer spring that could raise the car and change the static alignment anyway.
I'm watching this with interest and would love to see a longer write-up on your experience when you're done. I actually bought a used GM leaf spring tool to be able to swap out springs on the new project car.
Cams were all all marked and put back exactly at the same spot. Wouldn't that make the alignment the exact same?
That would depend on what the camber/caster numbers were and and if that is where you want them For a track day car, use the GM recommended track settings.
I used a sawz all to cut mine out. If you don't want to mess up the alignment I would just drop the cradle. According to the shop manual link posted above the C7 has a guide pin that should keep the alignment from changing as long as you are not changing the cradle. However, if you are going with a stiffer spring that could raise the car and change the static alignment anyway.
I'm watching this with interest and would love to see a longer write-up on your experience when you're done. I actually bought a used GM leaf spring tool to be able to swap out springs on the new project car.
Are you thinking of starting with non Z07 springs and going to Z07 or some other direction?
That would depend on what the camber/caster numbers were and and if that is where you want them For a track day car, use the GM recommended track settings.
What I mean is I marked all the eccentric nuts and then put everything back to the mark.
I'm a little late tot he party, but yes, you need to cut that bolt that is blocked by the fuel tank, and you can put it back on the other way around to clear it easily from now on. Were you able to replace your leaf spring after the bolt issue? In my experience, you need to jack up the spring from both ends, or else it doesn't give enough slack to install the new one (but removal is easy).
I'm a little late tot he party, but yes, you need to cut that bolt that is blocked by the fuel tank, and you can put it back on the other way around to clear it easily from now on. Were you able to replace your leaf spring after the bolt issue? In my experience, you need to jack up the spring from both ends, or else it doesn't give enough slack to install the new one (but removal is easy).
Yes I am done. Tested and everything is good. Still Using z51 mag ride controller and it feels just fine.
I didn't have to compress the spring at all on the rear to take out or put in. In the front i compressed just 1 side to put the lower control arm under it.
Just did my 2015 C7 Z51 7-24-2020, Rear Mono-Leaf here is the easiest way to remove without a lift. Job took me 2.5hrs with air-tools, I'm not a mechanic...
1. block car up securely, so that the suspension hangs freely. I lifted my 7 18"
2 remove rear wheels
3. remove rear shocks
4. lower Mono-Leaf suspension height adjustment bolt (10mm Socket) by rotating CC, some rust buster will help to reduce the force needed to turn the bolts.
5. separate upper control arm ball joint, to free suspension
6. visually inspect the spring while pushing the bottom control arm down to insure spring is no longer tension. Because if it is still under tension and it hits you in the head, while removing the two clamps (4 quantity 13mm bolts) you may no longer be smart enough to make enough money to buy a C8.
7. remove 2 Mono-Leaf clamps!
8. With a buddy pushing down on the bottom control arm (either side), slide the mono-leaf in buddy's direction until the leaf clears the opposite wishbone. when it drops down, slide it out the opposite direction to fully remove it.
9. reverse process to install new leaf. you will need floor jack to push lower control arm up to reattach the upper control arm ball joint. if a height adjustment is needed you can use a pry bar to lift leaf spring so you can turn the adjustment the screw. it was a lot simpler than it looked.