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I love Corvettes and have had a lot of them but my 2015 Z06 has been a total lemon. Bought in September 2015, it went into the shop in September 2017 for a month. They replaced the supercharger, flex plate and torque tube all of which were defective. It has now been in the shop since Nov. 27,2018. Brought in due to it stalling out and failing to restart intermittently. This time they have so far replaced the battery, starter motor, torque tube (again) and a section of the wiring harness. Now they have removed the engine because they found metal shavings in the oil. They are tearing it down and will undoubtedly have to replace the engine. It is totally sad that Chevrolet has let there so called quality control get to such horribly low levels!! You would think that when you spend over $90,000 for a car it would actually run!! Apparently Chevrolet doesn't share my opinion. I will NEVER buy another General Motors product!! There is NO quality control and customer service is NON EXISTANT!!
I'm sorry for your plight, as I'm sure most are here. However, you have told us nothing about your intervening experiences with the car and little else, actually, to help us understand what is going on. But, in any event, all the best.
I love Corvettes and have had a lot of them but my 2015 Z06 has been a total lemon. Bought in September 2015, it went into the shop in September 2017 for a month. They replaced the supercharger, flex plate and torque tube all of which were defective. It has now been in the shop since Nov. 27,2018. Brought in due to it stalling out and failing to restart intermittently. This time they have so far replaced the battery, starter motor, torque tube (again) and a section of the wiring harness. Now they have removed the engine because they found metal shavings in the oil. They are tearing it down and will undoubtedly have to replace the engine. It is totally sad that Chevrolet has let there so called quality control get to such horribly low levels!! You would think that when you spend over $90,000 for a car it would actually run!! Apparently Chevrolet doesn't share my opinion. I will NEVER buy another General Motors product!! There is NO quality control and customer service is NON EXISTANT!!
Boy, that's tough. My 2016 has run flawlessly for 4 years. I have replaced brakes, as I track the car, so this should be expected. Otherwise it has been bullet-proof. Check your state for lemon laws.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
The customer service side is dealer dependent but what you've experienced is just a small percentage of the total. Know that there are many thousands of these cars that have not experienced a single issue, so it isn't an issue of No Quality control, just a defect(s) with your particular vehicle. Get the dealer to buy it back and trade in on a new model.
If you think any of the luxury brands don't have the same issues, you are fooling yourself. Go peruse a McLaren forum for a bit and realize how much those cars cost....
I have owned 10 Corvettes, 2 used, 8 new and have never had a single issue/problem with any of them. My appraisal of GM's quality control would differ wildly from that of the OP here.
Assuming your car is an A8, I am willing to bet that all of the issues and replacement parts after the initial flex plate replacement are the fault of the dealer. The slow starting, stalling and metal in the oil are likely all results of the torque tube not being installed correctly when it was put back together the first time. If the specific procedure for torquing the coupler on the front of the torque tube wasn't done perfectly, it will have insufficient crank shaft end play and cause the thrust bearing to get wiped out. As the thrust bearing wears, it keeps introducing metallic shavings into the oil, which start to wipe out the rest of the bearings, creating the stalling and hard start issue. If the mileage between failures was about 3k miles, that's even more likely as that's usually about the time it takes to completely wipe out the thrust bearing.
I am not sure how many dealers there are on the islands, but we've had two C7s come back from Hawaii with recent torque tube removals and both required an engine due to the incorrect install procedure done previously.
The customer service side is dealer dependent but what you've experienced is just a small percentage of the total. Know that there are many thousands of these cars that have not experienced a single issue, so it isn't an issue of No Quality control, just a defect(s) with your particular vehicle. Get the dealer to buy it back and trade in on a new model.
If you think any of the luxury brands don't have the same issues, you are fooling yourself. Go peruse a McLaren forum for a bit and realize how much those cars cost....
Assuming your car is an A8, I am willing to bet that all of the issues and replacement parts after the initial flex plate replacement are the fault of the dealer. The slow starting, stalling and metal in the oil are likely all results of the torque tube not being installed correctly when it was put back together the first time. If the specific procedure for torquing the coupler on the front of the torque tube wasn't done perfectly, it will have insufficient crank shaft end play and cause the thrust bearing to get wiped out. As the thrust bearing wears, it keeps introducing metallic shavings into the oil, which start to wipe out the rest of the bearings, creating the stalling and hard start issue. If the mileage between failures was about 3k miles, that's even more likely as that's usually about the time it takes to completely wipe out the thrust bearing.
I am not sure how many dealers there are on the islands, but we've had two C7s come back from Hawaii with recent torque tube removals and both required an engine due to the incorrect install procedure done previously.
That makes a lot of sense. Out of curiosity can you post the proper torque procedure?
This isn't relevant to the OP's unfortunate problems he is experiencing (but from what he says, Chevy do seem to be trying to get it running as it should be)
but "as far as I know" from my 20yr old C5's history it has had zero break downs, several factory recalls, & just the usual fluids/filters replaced as well as brake pads & tires...............so not too bad for such an old girl!
This isn't relevant to the OP's unfortunate problems he is experiencing (but from what he says, Chevy do seem to be trying to get it running as it should be)
but "as far as I know" from my 20yr old C5's history it has had zero break downs, several factory recalls, & just the usual fluids/filters replaced as well as brake pads & tires...............so not too bad for such an old girl!
That "Old girl" looks brand new. Nice job. I had a 2004 Z06 and I had zero issues with it. My 2019 GS has 4000 miles and so far so good.
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That makes a lot of sense. Out of curiosity can you post the proper torque procedure?
Sure. There are a lot of steps prior to this copy and paste, but this is the part that needs to be followed perfectly. If it's not done correctly and the technician doesn't re-measure the crankshaft end play, it is VERY likely it will need main bearing or engine replacement in less than 4k miles.
Note: The following steps MUST be performed in order to provide proper alignment of the propeller shaft hub, the propeller input shaft and the propeller input shaft front bearing.
HAND-TIGHTEN the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) until FINGER-TIGHT.
Remove the propeller input shaft front bearing positioning bolts (M10–1.5X55 mm) from the driveline support assembly.
Install the two bolt hole plugs to the front of the driveline support assembly.
Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten
TightenTighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Y (11 lb ft).
Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached.Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Use a helper and carefully pry the crankshaft rearward at the crankshaft pulley, before and during the tightening of the pinch bolts to ensure there is enough crankshaft endplay.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) to 130 Y (96 lb ft).
Check crankshaft end play at the flywheel. Installed the gauge thru the window (make sure the pin of the gauge in on the flat surface of the flywheel or ring-gear not the curved area) (1) reading should be between 0.0381 mm (0.0015 in) and 0.2159 mm (0.0085 in).
Assuming your car is an A8, I am willing to bet that all of the issues and replacement parts after the initial flex plate replacement are the fault of the dealer. The slow starting, stalling and metal in the oil are likely all results of the torque tube not being installed correctly when it was put back together the first time. If the specific procedure for torquing the coupler on the front of the torque tube wasn't done perfectly, it will have insufficient crank shaft end play and cause the thrust bearing to get wiped out. As the thrust bearing wears, it keeps introducing metallic shavings into the oil, which start to wipe out the rest of the bearings, creating the stalling and hard start issue. If the mileage between failures was about 3k miles, that's even more likely as that's usually about the time it takes to completely wipe out the thrust bearing.
I am not sure how many dealers there are on the islands, but we've had two C7s come back from Hawaii with recent torque tube removals and both required an engine due to the incorrect install procedure done previously.
I agree with RichieRichZ06 100%. Most of your issues are caused by the dealer.
Sure. There are a lot of steps prior to this copy and paste, but this is the part that needs to be followed perfectly. If it's not done correctly and the technician doesn't re-measure the crankshaft end play, it is VERY likely it will need main bearing or engine replacement in less than 4k miles.
Note: The following steps MUST be performed in order to provide proper alignment of the propeller shaft hub, the propeller input shaft and the propeller input shaft front bearing.
HAND-TIGHTEN the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) until FINGER-TIGHT.
Remove the propeller input shaft front bearing positioning bolts (M10–1.5X55 mm) from the driveline support assembly.
Install the two bolt hole plugs to the front of the driveline support assembly.
Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten
TightenTighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Y (11 lb ft).
Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached.Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Use a helper and carefully pry the crankshaft rearward at the crankshaft pulley, before and during the tightening of the pinch bolts to ensure there is enough crankshaft endplay.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) to 130 Y (96 lb ft).
Check crankshaft end play at the flywheel. Installed the gauge thru the window (make sure the pin of the gauge in on the flat surface of the flywheel or ring-gear not the curved area) (1) reading should be between 0.0381 mm (0.0015 in) and 0.2159 mm (0.0085 in).
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Sucks you are having so many problems with your car. It surely can leave a sour taste in your mouth. Hope GM can come up with a solution and get your car repaired and back on the road.
Sucks you are having so many problems with your car. It surely can leave a sour taste in your mouth. Hope GM can come up with a solution and get your car repaired and back on the road.
They are going to have to now. I just hired a lemon law lawyer and I am suing GM. RIDICULOUS that they forced me to get to this point. WORST car I have EVER owned and WORST manufacturer is history!!!
Assuming your car is an A8, I am willing to bet that all of the issues and replacement parts after the initial flex plate replacement are the fault of the dealer. The slow starting, stalling and metal in the oil are likely all results of the torque tube not being installed correctly when it was put back together the first time. If the specific procedure for torquing the coupler on the front of the torque tube wasn't done perfectly, it will have insufficient crank shaft end play and cause the thrust bearing to get wiped out. As the thrust bearing wears, it keeps introducing metallic shavings into the oil, which start to wipe out the rest of the bearings, creating the stalling and hard start issue. If the mileage between failures was about 3k miles, that's even more likely as that's usually about the time it takes to completely wipe out the thrust bearing.
I am not sure how many dealers there are on the islands, but we've had two C7s come back from Hawaii with recent torque tube removals and both required an engine due to the incorrect install procedure done previously.
That sounds like exactly what happened. Thank you for letting me know the truth. If only GM would admit that and do the right thing instead of jerking me around for two months it would be nice.
Sure. There are a lot of steps prior to this copy and paste, but this is the part that needs to be followed perfectly. If it's not done correctly and the technician doesn't re-measure the crankshaft end play, it is VERY likely it will need main bearing or engine replacement in less than 4k miles.
Note: The following steps MUST be performed in order to provide proper alignment of the propeller shaft hub, the propeller input shaft and the propeller input shaft front bearing.
HAND-TIGHTEN the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) until FINGER-TIGHT.
Remove the propeller input shaft front bearing positioning bolts (M10–1.5X55 mm) from the driveline support assembly.
Install the two bolt hole plugs to the front of the driveline support assembly.
Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten
TightenTighten the negative battery cable bolt to 15 Y (11 lb ft).
Start and run the engine at idle until normal operating temperatures are reached.Idle or drive for at least 10 minutes.
Turn off the engine and allow the powertrain to cool to ROOM temperature.
Raise the vehicle.
Use a helper and carefully pry the crankshaft rearward at the crankshaft pulley, before and during the tightening of the pinch bolts to ensure there is enough crankshaft endplay.
Tighten the propeller shaft hub clamp bolt (1) to 130 Y (96 lb ft).
Check crankshaft end play at the flywheel. Installed the gauge thru the window (make sure the pin of the gauge in on the flat surface of the flywheel or ring-gear not the curved area) (1) reading should be between 0.0381 mm (0.0015 in) and 0.2159 mm (0.0085 in).
Install the engine flywheel housing access plug.
So you pry the crankshaft back and set the clamp bolt or do you try to find a happy medium in the crank play and set the clamp bolt? I am doing a converter change this weekend.
So you pry the crankshaft back and set the clamp bolt or do you try to find a happy medium in the crank play and set the clamp bolt? I am doing a converter change this weekend.
I was wondering the same thing - would seem reasonable to set in the center of the play to minimize wear everywhere especially the trust bearing. But the way this probably works is that if you set it up as per instructions, moving the crank to max rear position and then tightening the clamp will likely net end play in the .0015 to .0085 range and all components will be relaxed and can go on to live long and happy lives
Dealer messed up on TT reinstall causing all the following problems. But the dealer will never admit it.
FYI:
My best friend for over 30 years, shop supervisor, very large Ford dealership, was always over rode by management when some mechanic screwed up. Customer always paid, he hated the dealership system of doing things like this but could never win.
You'd be horrified at what dealership management was always trying to pull.
Screw you, pay me. And they were proud of that mato.
Thats why I never took any of my cars to a dealership for over 50 years .
01-17-2019, 06:40 PM
Horror story
