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If you are switching to studs, its best to have the mains checked. I personally didn’t have mine checked and did studs and risked it and mine was ok.
Since my local machine shop recommended and wanted another $350 to line hone I decided to use calibrated wrist action to compare before and after studs. I have decided to take the risk. Besides, it took him 4 weeks just to balance and rebuild the heads. Note to self: Avoid machine work between race seasons.
I know ARP and every machine shop on the planet suggests line honing but could this be from the 2 bolt small block stroker days? These Gen V blocks look very stout to me. I find it hard to believe that the LT block knows the difference between the clamping forces of bolt versus stud.
On on another note, I was very impressed with the condition of my 35k miles plus internals. All of the bearings and cylinders looked like brand new. Slight wear on the piston skirt coating but still great condition. Of course the back side of the intake valves were kinda gunked up from the carbon but that was expected. Initial checks of all other clearances such as main and rod clearance have been well within manufacturing specs. Wiseco pistons and Lunati rods are beautiful and dimensions quite perfect. Spring has begun around here and I need to get this thing back on the road!
I always check it, often line hone. I hate line boring though. I've made a judgment call based on wrist feel for cheaper builds... But I also check cam-cam to make sure it hasn't been done before I got there...
My opinion is you should really check. Changing the clamping torque on the fasteners is enough to move things around more than you would expect. As a general FYI, when performing a line hone, that's more or less the way you limit or increase how much material you are taking off each cap (By changing torque on main caps)
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