Torque Spec - 1LT oil drain plug
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,348
Likes: 3,319
I would hate to over torque a valve stem cap.
While I do not use a torque wrench for oil plugs, oil filters, or the like, I certainly see the value in using a torque wrench for everything until you get a sense of what force is needed for various size fasteners. With a bit of experience you learn to listen to your hands and will feel when a bolt is stretching just enough, etc.
My guess is experience with a torque wrench has saved a lot of bolts from being over-tightened.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 630
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From: Florida
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 12,260
Likes: 4,749
From: SE WI
GM torques everything to a fixed setting using calibrated electronic torque tools. Look up Cleco. The entire automotive industry does this.
https://www.clecotools.com
.
https://www.clecotools.com
.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 867
The whole torque reading thing is just too much for me. The easiest thing I’ve found to do is simply get rid of the drain plug.I apply a very good duct tape over the drain hole after emptiiing all oil from oil pan. Refill and done. No torquing and no worries about too snug or snug enough: when I have to change oil again it’s easy peezy,just simply remove pc. Of duct tape. It’s a no brainer.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 289
Likes: 105
From: Missouri
The whole torque reading thing is just too much for me. The easiest thing I’ve found to do is simply get rid of the drain plug.I apply a very good duct tape over the drain hole after emptiiing all oil from oil pan. Refill and done. No torquing and no worries about too snug or snug enough: when I have to change oil again it’s easy peezy,just simply remove pc. Of duct tape. It’s a no brainer.
MrHix
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
Owns a 2018 model year high end sports car that he could sell today for $50K plus (instant offer), won't spend $10-$50 for a torque wrench or digital torque adapter.
$10 torque wrench: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...nch-61276.html Use coupon code 41466626 at checkout for $10 off, making it $9.99
$50 digital torque adapter: https://www.amzn.com/B009GLISY4/
Just damn!
I totally agree. And I'm one of the few guys who works on other peoples cars who nearly always uses the proper tools, including using a recently calibrated torque wrench or digital torque adapter on the oil drain plug when doing an oil change.
$10 torque wrench: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...nch-61276.html Use coupon code 41466626 at checkout for $10 off, making it $9.99
$50 digital torque adapter: https://www.amzn.com/B009GLISY4/
Just damn!
I totally agree. And I'm one of the few guys who works on other peoples cars who nearly always uses the proper tools, including using a recently calibrated torque wrench or digital torque adapter on the oil drain plug when doing an oil change.
I would never trust the cheapo HF torque wrench and the lower numbers like 18 to 22 ft lbs. Guys that have built motors or have done work for years have a feel for drain plugs by hand, others not so much. Nothing wrong with either method depending on your experience of course.
Cheers DW
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
I have a couple of the cheapo 1/2 drive HF, but I only use them for the trailer and stuff I dont really care about. I can tell you that the ICON 1/2 drive they sell is as good or better than a Snap On.
I have one, and for $100 its beautiful and works stellar.
As far as reaching both drain plugs, all it takes is a short normal extension with the ball swivel end, and normal 15mm socket. A socket or box end wrench is better than open claw, to be sure you don't round off the bolt flats.
On lower torque values like 15 to 30 lbs its best to use a 3/8 drive that has a max of maybe 75 ft lbs.
Cheers Dale
Last edited by Dale760; Apr 12, 2019 at 01:12 PM.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,019
Likes: 12,401
From: NE South Carolina
As far as reaching both drain plugs, all it takes is a short normal extension with the ball swivel end, and normal 15mm socket. A socket or box end wrench is better than open claw, to be sure you don't round off the bolt flats.
On lower torque values like 15 to 30 lbs its best to use a 3/8 drive that has a max of maybe 75 ft lbs.
Cheers Dale
Also my 500 mile change was the 1st time that plug was off and whatever thread locker GM used would not budge with over ~100 ft-lbs! I had to improvise that 1st removal. My Grand Sort was probably unique but I recommend getting a somewhat unusual 6 sided 15 mm box wrench to be safe. My 12 point box wrench and 6 sided 15 mm flare nut wrench were rounding the plug hex!
Funny my front plug came off with little force! We’ll under what I would use or the GM torque spec. No visible thread locker on it versus what was found on the side plug.
Last edited by JerryU; Apr 12, 2019 at 02:00 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 928
From: Burnt Hills NY
I use this
wrench set with my torque wrench. Works great. It does extend the torque wrench slightly (depending on the angle) the correction would be so small that it doesn't make a difference. Also, I always use a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts on all of my cars. I haven't had a warped rotor on any car in the last 5 years since I started using a torque wrench. I always re-torque the lug nuts anytime the car goes to the shop for anything. I almost always find them over torqued and uneven (which is what I think increases the likelihood of warped rotors) even though they tell me they use the calibrated torque bars. I think they over tighten them with the impact wrench and then check with the torque bar that just indicates they are at least the correct torque value, not the actual higher value. Sorry to get off topic a little.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
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From: Guelph, Ontario
I was very surprised when I did the first oil change on mine and the drain plug came off very easily, same with the oil filter. It's the first new car I've had where I didn't have to use excessive force to remove both the oil filter and the drain plug.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,019
Likes: 12,401
From: NE South Carolina
Yep, from my experience removing the plugs from my 2014 Z51, grabbed a 6 point socket, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, ratchet and long extension. Was very surprised it did not fit because the new oil cooler is longer. Tried the 12 point box wrench and 5 sided flare nut 15 mm wrench I had, both were rounding the hex. I wound-up using the 6 point socket and improvising a way to turn it by grabbing the circumference with a large pipe wrench! When it broke lose it had what appeared to be a dark color thread lock covering most of the thread.
The front plug was not at all tight and removed with little force. No thread lock visible. I would never have tightened that lose. Yep, use a torque wrench when assembling an engine and some other critical bolts but have installed drain plugs with just a socket and ratchet and never had an issue.
Surprising as the engine was assembled at one time to have thread lock on one and not the other plug! In addition the plug hex quality was such that the edges were rounding. Fortunately I had purchased two quality magnetic drain plugs prior to making that 1st oil change.
The front plug was not at all tight and removed with little force. No thread lock visible. I would never have tightened that lose. Yep, use a torque wrench when assembling an engine and some other critical bolts but have installed drain plugs with just a socket and ratchet and never had an issue.
Surprising as the engine was assembled at one time to have thread lock on one and not the other plug! In addition the plug hex quality was such that the edges were rounding. Fortunately I had purchased two quality magnetic drain plugs prior to making that 1st oil change.
Last edited by JerryU; Apr 12, 2019 at 07:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 630
Likes: 384
From: Florida
Here is the tool I will use to loosen and tighten the drain plug on my 1LT. Will not round off the plug and allows for attachment of a torque wrench for tightening. Worth every penny.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
Yep, from my experience removing the plugs from my 2014 Z51, grabbed a 6 point socket, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, ratchet and long extension. Was very surprised it did not fit because the new oil cooler is longer. Tried the 12 point box wrench and 5 sided flare nut 15 mm wrench I had, both were rounding the hex. I wound-up using the 6 point socket and improvising a way to turn it by grabbing the circumference with a large pipe wrench! When it broke lose it had what appeared to be a dark color thread lock covering most of the thread.
The front plug was not at all tight and removed with little force. No thread lock visible. I would never have tightened that lose. Yep, use a torque wrench when assembling an engine and some other critical bolts but have installed drain plugs with just a socket and ratchet and never had an issue.
Surprising as the engine was assembled at one time to have thread lock on one and not the other plug! In addition the plug hex quality was such that the edges were rounding. Fortunately I had purchased two quality magnetic drain plugs prior to making that 1st oil change.
The front plug was not at all tight and removed with little force. No thread lock visible. I would never have tightened that lose. Yep, use a torque wrench when assembling an engine and some other critical bolts but have installed drain plugs with just a socket and ratchet and never had an issue.
Surprising as the engine was assembled at one time to have thread lock on one and not the other plug! In addition the plug hex quality was such that the edges were rounding. Fortunately I had purchased two quality magnetic drain plugs prior to making that 1st oil change.
That's why I go 20 ft lbs ......... Drain plug is plenty big for those numbers into aluminum.
Rear end plugs I go 22 ft lbs ....... My car had 3800 miles on it and the fill plug was literally loose, and could have back out. Nylon sealing washers dont do well through heat cycles. Best to mark the plugs like factory and take a look now and then.
DW
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
Here is the tool I will use to loosen and tighten the drain plug on my 1LT. Will not round off the plug and allows for attachment of a torque wrench for tightening. Worth every penny.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheers D
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
Yep, from my experience removing the plugs from my 2014 Z51, grabbed a 6 point socket, 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, ratchet and long extension. Was very surprised it did not fit because the new oil cooler is longer. Tried the 12 point box wrench and 5 sided flare nut 15 mm wrench I had, both were rounding the hex. I wound-up using the 6 point socket and improvising a way to turn it by grabbing the circumference with a large pipe wrench! When it broke lose it had what appeared to be a dark color thread lock covering most of the thread.
The front plug was not at all tight and removed with little force. No thread lock visible. I would never have tightened that lose. Yep, use a torque wrench when assembling an engine and some other critical bolts but have installed drain plugs with just a socket and ratchet and never had an issue.
Surprising as the engine was assembled at one time to have thread lock on one and not the other plug! In addition the plug hex quality was such that the edges were rounding. Fortunately I had purchased two quality magnetic drain plugs prior to making that 1st oil change.
The front plug was not at all tight and removed with little force. No thread lock visible. I would never have tightened that lose. Yep, use a torque wrench when assembling an engine and some other critical bolts but have installed drain plugs with just a socket and ratchet and never had an issue.
Surprising as the engine was assembled at one time to have thread lock on one and not the other plug! In addition the plug hex quality was such that the edges were rounding. Fortunately I had purchased two quality magnetic drain plugs prior to making that 1st oil change.
Just check both plugs after a few heat cycles, or 100 miles and your good from then on.
DW
Last edited by Dale760; Apr 12, 2019 at 10:20 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 12
Won’t reach the side plug on a Grand Sport that way. The latest oil cooler is closer and longer. Had no issue reaching it on my 2014 Z51.
Also my 500 mile change was the 1st time that plug was off and whatever thread locker GM used would not budge with over ~100 ft-lbs! I had to improvise that 1st removal. My Grand Sort was probably unique but I recommend getting a somewhat unusual 6 sided 15 mm box wrench to be safe. My 12 point box wrench and 6 sided 15 mm flare nut wrench were rounding the plug hex!
Funny my front plug came off with little force! We’ll under what I would use or the GM torque spec. No visible thread locker on it versus what was found on the side plug.
Also my 500 mile change was the 1st time that plug was off and whatever thread locker GM used would not budge with over ~100 ft-lbs! I had to improvise that 1st removal. My Grand Sort was probably unique but I recommend getting a somewhat unusual 6 sided 15 mm box wrench to be safe. My 12 point box wrench and 6 sided 15 mm flare nut wrench were rounding the plug hex!
Funny my front plug came off with little force! We’ll under what I would use or the GM torque spec. No visible thread locker on it versus what was found on the side plug.
My grand sport is a 2017, is the cooler longer or lower on the 18 & 19 ?
Dale