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Clutch Master Cylinder DIY?

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Old May 23, 2019 | 12:27 PM
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Default Clutch Master Cylinder DIY?

Hello all,

I recently found a quite large puddle of clutch fluid underneath my Z06 and determined I need to replace the clutch master cylinder or the reservoir line. I was wondering if anyone knows of a DIY rundown of how to replace these parts? If so can you please direct me to it?

Cheers!
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Old May 24, 2019 | 03:17 PM
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1. Remove back half of car
2. Replace slave cylinder
3. Install back half of car.


It is a lot of work. If you have the tools and a lift (not required but helps) and the time you can DIY it, but it isn't recommended. You essentially have to remove everything after the engine.
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Old May 25, 2019 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by subieworx
1. Remove back half of car
2. Replace slave cylinder
3. Install back half of car.


It is a lot of work. If you have the tools and a lift (not required but helps) and the time you can DIY it, but it isn't recommended. You essentially have to remove everything after the engine.
That is the correct process for the slave cylinder, but I was inquiring about the master cylinder.
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Old May 28, 2019 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Lukes07Vette
Hello all,

I recently found a quite large puddle of clutch fluid underneath my Z06 and determined I need to replace the clutch master cylinder or the reservoir line. I was wondering if anyone knows of a DIY rundown of how to replace these parts? If so can you please direct me to it?

Cheers!
I did a few searches and did not find anything. I think it is accessed behind the inner fender.
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Old May 30, 2019 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Lukes07Vette
That is the correct process for the slave cylinder, but I was inquiring about the master cylinder.
If it like a C6, there is a double-sealed "quick disconnect" in the line between MC and slave that can be accessed near the frame by removing the LF wheel well liner. Take something to calm your nerves and keep bandaids handy for the bleeding knuckles. It is tite tite tite.

Since the MC reservoir looks a lot like a C6, i suspect the plumbing is similar too. There may be 3 locations to QD that fitting. The middle one on the fattest part of the connection is the one to disconnect. On a C6 there is a wire clip shaped like the clips that held door handles on '60's GM cars. Once you release this QD by pulling this clip, immediately put that little friggin' clip back in the slot exactly as you removed it. When you push them together on reconnect, the fitting will "cam" the spring upon seating and lock.

You might get away with out bleeding the system, but if the slave is the leaker, then Subie is right, you are in for a long job If you have hands like a spider you might be able to bleed the clutch. The slave bolts to the Torque tube right where it mates to the bellhousing. At the least you will have to drop the mid-pipe and torque tube tunnel cover to get at it.
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Old Jun 11, 2019 | 03:03 PM
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For anyone out there still fallowing this. The issue was a hole in the line running from the master cylinder and clutch housing. A trusted shop I have used for 20 years quoted 13 hours, and the dealer quitted 18 hours. So, $2k to replace a small hose.

In the typical GM fusion, great idea horribly executed.
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Old Jun 12, 2019 | 10:49 AM
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Makes sense. If it's going to leak it will leak from inside the bell housing.
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by subieworx
Makes sense. If it's going to leak it will leak from inside the bell housing.
It is not leaking from the hell housing. It is a line leaving from outside the bell housing.
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Old Jun 13, 2019 | 10:16 PM
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Been there done that.....in my garage. C5 and C6 were the same basic design. Nothing new on the C7.
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Old Jun 14, 2019 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Torch-Red-Z06
Been there done that.....in my garage. C5 and C6 were the same basic design. Nothing new on the C7.
Can you offer any insight into the process?
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