I'm getting ready to install LT headers on my '19 stingray and am undecided which way to go. The car is a selective daily driver meaning for the most part it's out and driven as much and as often as mother nature allows here in the North East. I do use it on a 75 mile commute to work and most times crawl through an hour of traffic getting out of the city limits so I'm concerned about excessive heat trapped under the hood. I spoke to a buddy about jet hotting and he said he wished he wrapped his headers instead of having them coated because he has a problem melting plug wires even though he has insulated jackets on them. His car is a '68 427 big block, a very different animal than a C7 but it got me thinking about wrapping. I know if I wrap that there is a life span and I would have to re-wrap in the future but I don't mind doing it if need be. I am concerned mostly about the heat from the headers melting plug wires and electronics/harnesses and being they sit so low and mostly out of sight takes away the aesthetics issue. So which method do you guys find better controls/reduces heat radiating off the headers?

 

I have LT and don't have any wrap or coating and have stock wires. I drive through Chicago traffic as well so it gets warm. I've never had an issue, but I do have some sleeves for the wires sitting in the garage I might put on one day.

 

Wrapping headers causes cracking and also issues with trapping water, the heat from the headers is no more than the heat that came off your stock cast iron manifolds and that cat that is tucked up there between the starter and frame rail

You are right , there is no comparision to that big block Chevy with 2 inch tubes ...plug wires can be an issue but can be solved with angle boots

With headers the cats are moved down into the tunnel and there is a lot more room between the pipes and the block/frame rails

When I put headers on my C6 I chose not to wrap or coat and the temps were actually cooler than my stock setup

Just installed 1 7/8 hooker hooker black hearts with high flow cats on my C7 , the headers were already coated , plenty of room around the stock plug wires I have one that is close but I am not worried
all the wires on a C7 are already well insulated and nowhere near the headers

Coat them or leave them alone , you will be fine
Dave

 

Although these pictures do not show the plugs installed you can clearly see that there is plenty of room for them , I cant see how other brands would be different unless you are going with a larger diameter tube

 

I'm installing 1 7/8" ARH LT's with cats. What got me thinking I need to coat or wrap them is because the stock iron manifolds have heat shields on them and if the design engineers felt like the stock manifolds which are hugging the motor needed a barrier to protect the rest of the engine bay then surely larger header tubes would require some sort of thermal barrier too.

 

Yep , I would tend to agree with you but when you install them you will see how much room you have over the old cast iron manifolds …… I can assure you along with 100's of other guys who put headers on , you have nothing to worry about if the installation is done carefully

There is no problem at all with spark plug clearance , I can take a picture of mine if you like

I did my own install and can tell you from experience that there are no wires or harnesses even close to the headers and those that run down the back of the motor ( the O2 harness and starter harness ) are already well insulated along with the starter that has a shield on it

Don't overthink this … install them, make sure the O2 wires are tied up tight , even ran my rear O2's just in case I get a visual and enjoy your new found power , the sound will put a smile on your face every time I guarantee it

If you still cant sleep at night then have them jet coated , I do like the looks of mine but it was a pain In the butt to slide them up on the passenger side without a few scratches, the driver side slipped right into place after removing the steering shaft bolt

If you are doing the install PM or Email me , I can help you with a few tricks that were passed on to me from a few friends on this forum , it will save you a lot of time and I can say with a 100% certainty I did not utter one 4 letter word during the whole install

Good luck and enjoy

Dave

 

I've seen many coated LT's look like trash after a few years from it chipping off, changing color, etc.

Keep it simple and buy a quality set of LT's like ARH.

Drop in some DEI's protect-a-boots and call it a day.

 

Okay then, you guys have put my mind at ease and the headers are going in bare. Yes Dave I'm going to do the install myself and I appreciate and will take you up on your offer for some four letter word saving tips when I do begin the job. I'm up in NY and need to wait for a warm stretch because my garage is unheated and it's been below freezing here.
I'm thinking of buying a 4 post lift, I've wanted a 2 post for years but finally accepted that my garage isn't capable of fitting one. Right now I've got the front tires sitting up on roughly 8" high wood blocks to get all my sizes and layout my tools and I am able to reach everything pretty easily. I know the lift would make it easier but do I need to get the car higher if I want to go for it as she sits? I've been working under my cars and trucks laying on cardboard my entire life so I'm no stranger to struggling.

 

I did mine on a Quick lift so I dont think it was much higher than yours on 8 inch blocks , just PM me or email me as I would be glad to help
Dave

 

If your car is otherwise stock and they are one of the two or three well known, correctly fitting headers, coat if you want and otherwise leave well enough alone.

 

A good quality high temperature ceramic coating inside and out will greatly reduce the heat radiated from headers. I originally had chromed headers on my v-drive boat, had them striped and recoated in a ceramic HTC and the felt radiated heat was substantially less and they cool quicker.