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I recently purchased the attached caliper pad pins from amazon.
just 2.5" long. and the ends are machined to fit perfectly over each end of the caliper pins. Expensive, but quality tools usually are. I got two . One to use exclusively to tap the pins out and the other to tap the pins back in.
Haven't used them yet but hoping it will save me time on pad changes. .
I also use a scrap block of steel instead of a hammer. Shaped like an I beam its 1"square by 2" long and fairly heavy. Fits easily in hand and can generate sufficient force in the small space behind the wheel to seat the pins.
Those rear pins are the hardest part of the brake job. I use a small 1" long hex drive adapter from this multi tool kit. It's actually about perfect and allows me to get the pins in flush on the back side. Search your garage for something like that but it has to be short, something like a punch is too long.
That Brembo pin tool is awesome if you change pads often but its not really good at reassembly. I tried to use it to hammer the pins back in and it started to deform the end.
That Brembo pin tool is awesome if you change pads often but its not really good at reassembly. I tried to use it to hammer the pins back in and it started to deform the end.[/QUOTE]
Thats why I got two of them One just to tap the pins back in knowing that the smaller end would deform. Hence the second tool to be used only to tap the pins out.
As I said, Haven't actually used them yet .but they are in my tool kit ready for spring.
Last edited by blueray16; Feb 15, 2020 at 10:33 PM.
Here is the block I use instead of a hammer to tap the pins in/out.
Its heavy enough to generate enough force in the confined space to drive the pins home.
I use a short hex tip (the type for a screw driver) and place it in a pair of needle nose vise grips, right at the end and at a 90 degree angle to the pliers. This way you have a very short pin to hit but yet you have excellent control too.
Stubby hammer and a regular 4" long punch set works just fine. Just use the right diameter. You don't have to hit it exactly at 90°. Angled pretty far out and it will still go in fine. You'll know it's all the way in as it will sound solid. I used to use a small hex bit but that was actually harder.
I do brake pads 1-2 times a month back and forth to track pads. Takes me <30 min for all corners including jacking up the car with 1 floor jack and taking my time to clean the calipers. 5 years and counting.
And a trick for the bolted down pin up front, find a punch that the handle part has almost the same diameter as that pin and use it backwards to punch the pin out forward after removing 13 mm bolt.
I really think the key is you don't have to hit them square to get them to slide in just fine, that's likely what's keeping you from getting it to work.
Punch set I'm talking about is from harbor freight. Little black things.
Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; Feb 17, 2020 at 08:25 PM.
Another thing I've used is a tiny set of vice grips. With the pin 90% in you can grab it (in the middle) then tap the side of vice grip pliers with a mallet to seat it.
I can say these Brembos are way easy then the Akebonos on my previous 350Z - those pins were held in place with tiny cotter pins that were nearly impossible to align and press into place. The only thing worse would have been using C retaining clips... oh how I hate those things.
I have often wondered why they don't just machine some threads into end of the pins, then you could use something like a small allen wrench to twist and lock them in place
Resetting rear caliper pins
