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Tomorrow I will be installing the L/H cylinder head on my LT1 Stingray.
Is there any particular procedure to adding the coolant back into the system. [I have been accustomed to Euro cars that have a bleeder in the system]
I can't see anything like this on the Corvette , but don't want Air-lock the system.
Also ,with the GM torque to yield head bolts, they have a coating on the thread.
Are these bolts installed dry, or do I give them a light coat of oil?
Tomorrow I will be installing the L/H cylinder head on my LT1 Stingray.
Is there any particular procedure to adding the coolant back into the system. [I have been accustomed to Euro cars that have a bleeder in the system]
I can't see anything like this on the Corvette , but don't want Air-lock the system.
Also ,with the GM torque to yield head bolts, they have a coating on the thread.
Are these bolts installed dry, or do I give them a light coat of oil?
Any advice would be appreciated
Cheers Kerry
To get mine air lock out of the car I put the car up in the front a little tune on the A/C also filled it all the way up & let it run until you can see the water running thur the tang & make sure it is up to temp so the thermostat is open, I may been over kill on getting the front up in the air but just did. Robert
Most 'wrenches' todays use an Airlift to pull a vacuum on the cooling system to remove all air in the system. Too expensive if you unfortunately leave and air pocket some where especially the in head.
Ask me how I know, been there done that.
Coolant isnt too bad on these cars. Add till it is full. Idle the engine and add as needed. Make sure it doesn't overheat cause it may have air pockets and may overheat idling. Jack the front a little and it should gurgle a little more air. then drive up and down a couple of speed bumps or driveways and it should get the rest of the air out.
Just gotta angle the car a bit to get all the air out. Make sure to check again after driving.
I'll just do that.
My old BB racer had a remote tank and was easy to purge [leave it idling until the thermostat opened]
I'll run it through a couple of heat cycles while the front of the car is raised on blocks
I had a BMW that was a nightmare. It had all the symptoms of a blown head gasket. It had a bleeder [that was difficult to see] that remedied the problem
I'll just do that.
My old BB racer had a remote tank and was easy to purge [leave it idling until the thermostat opened]
I'll run it through a couple of heat cycles while the front of the car is raised on blocks
I had a BMW that was a nightmare. It had all the symptoms of a blown head gasket. It had a bleeder [that was difficult to see] that remedied the problem
I would start with the car level. Only jack up if it has trouble cooling.
You won't know that you have a trapped air pocket until it blows a head gasket or wraps the head. Thats why good shop mechanics all have and use an airlift. Short cuts cost the mechanic $$$.