When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Several months ago I installed ARH headers, a 160 t-stat and had the car dyno tuned. After that, the car would rarely see coolant temps above 190 in weather like today's and it would take a good while to get there. This past week, we experienced snowmaggedon 2021 in Texas with several days of temps well below freezing. I think the low was 5 degrees one day. So as things go in Texas, we are now back to beautiful weather with highs in the 70s. I've been driving the car for the past couple of days and noticed that it now regularly runs between 199 and 208 and gets there in just a short drive across town. Coolant tank is full, car is running great and the fan seems to be working properly.
Does anyone have any ideas about what may be going on? I know that 199 to 208 is not too hot. What concerns me is the change in behavior and the fact that the heat of the summer will be here soon.
Minimum operating temp is set by the thermostat. In cold weather and low engine load the coolant temp is set by the thermostat. Obviously 160 is lower than the stock thermostat. The car will take longer to warm up and may never reach stock operating temps. If this is a problem, you may want to reconsider the 160 thermostat.
Max temp is set by cooling capacity and radiator fan tuning settings since the thermostat will be fully open. You should not see any difference in warm / hot temps or high load operation.
Minimum operating temp is set by the thermostat. In cold weather and low engine load the coolant temp is set by the thermostat. Obviously 160 is lower than the stock thermostat. The car will take longer to warm up and may never reach stock operating temps. If this is a problem, you may want to reconsider the 160 thermostat.
Max temp is set by cooling capacity and radiator fan tuning settings since the thermostat will be fully open. You should not see any difference in warm / hot temps or high load operation.
Ron
Ron, thank you for the reply. I understand very well how the cooling system works. The chief concern in my post is why would the car behave so differently after a hard freeze than it did pre-freeze? My gut tells me the t-stat may have suffered some damage from the cold temps and may not be fully opening now.
If it is now running cooler it is possible that the thermostat sticks open or was damaged and can't fully close. A restricted / not able to full open thermostat would run warmer and a stuck closed thermostat would cause overheating.
Yeah, possible damage due to the cold could be possible or just a random failure.
If it is now running cooler it is possible that the thermostat sticks open or was damaged and can't fully close. A restricted / not able to full open thermostat would run warmer and a stuck closed thermostat would cause overheating.
Yeah, possible damage due to the cold could be possible or just a random failure.
Ron
It’s actually getting to temp much quicker after the freeze and running about 10 to 15 degrees warmer than it did before the hard freeze, so the opposite of what you said.
trying running the heat on full hot for a bit, then turn on full cold a/c and see what the happens to the temps.
ensure nothing is blocking the radiator as well, check all coolant hoses to ensure none are collapsing.
it is happening at low speeds or highway? depending on which you indicate more issues on blockage vs. other stuff.
overall sounds like you might need to just keep an eye on it for the next few drive cycles to monitor the behavior.
I believe coolant nowadays last for well over 100k miles but if u needed to add some overtime depending on the mix you put in might need to be replaced with a better mixture perhaps?
Last edited by mdformula350; Feb 25, 2021 at 06:31 AM.
I'm guessing you have the dexcool mix in the car? i mean, not just water, correct? If so, I don't see how anything would freeze in there. With that said, 5*F is very cold, so if the coolant proportion is low relatively to water then you could potentially experience the freeze.
As long as there are no leaks, I would replace the thermostat and see what happens. Besides that, you may be looking at a damaged pump impeller.
Also, I don't understand why the 160*F at all. It doesn't increase the cooling capacity of the system at all. All it does is puts you at risk of not evaporating any water condensation in your oil reservoirs after a short drive.
I'm guessing you have the dexcool mix in the car? i mean, not just water, correct? If so, I don't see how anything would freeze in there. With that said, 5*F is very cold, so if the coolant proportion is low relatively to water then you could potentially experience the freeze.
As long as there are no leaks, I would replace the thermostat and see what happens. Besides that, you may be looking at a damaged pump impeller.
Also, I don't understand why the 160*F at all. It doesn't increase the cooling capacity of the system at all. All it does is puts you at risk of not evaporating any water condensation in your oil reservoirs after a short drive.
It has been shows time again, a 160 t-stat will allow better timing control over the stock 194° t-stat. Just by changing the stat alone it can help reduce instances of detonation during the warmer months. I've had a 160° stat in my 2017 Camaro SS for over 3 years now, zero issues and zero condensation in the oil or inside of the oil fill cap or the catch can. Where the car would run in the 210° range stock it now runs in the 180°-190° range during even the hottest summer months.
It has been shows time again, a 160 t-stat will allow better timing control over the stock 194° t-stat. Just by changing the stat alone it can help reduce instances of detonation during the warmer months. I've had a 160° stat in my 2017 Camaro SS for over 3 years now, zero issues and zero condensation in the oil or inside of the oil fill cap or the catch can. Where the car would run in the 210° range stock it now runs in the 180°-190° range during even the hottest summer months.
Well, you can't argue with physics (and I can't argue with evidence). The only explanation for this is that the factory t-stat itself is not a well flowing unit. The difference in opening temp would not alter cooling capacity.
I'm guessing you have the dexcool mix in the car? i mean, not just water, correct? If so, I don't see how anything would freeze in there. With that said, 5*F is very cold, so if the coolant proportion is low relatively to water then you could potentially experience the freeze.
As long as there are no leaks, I would replace the thermostat and see what happens. Besides that, you may be looking at a damaged pump impeller.
Also, I don't understand why the 160*F at all. It doesn't increase the cooling capacity of the system at all. All it does is puts you at risk of not evaporating any water condensation in your oil reservoirs after a short drive.
I appreciate all of the responses. I’ve ordered a new t-stat and will replace on Sunday. That seems to be the most likely culprit. Regarding the lower temp thermostat, I know it comes with a fair amount of controversy. I did my homework on that and talked extensively with my tuner about it. Considering I’m in Texas and drive the car quite a bit during the heat of the summer including a track day here and there, it made sense to me. Thanks again for all of the replies.
Just a little more info for you to gauge... My '16 z51 with OEM thermostat & untuned, was seeing a consistent 160-165* (engine coolant temp) last week when outside temps were well below 50*. Now that temps are back to 68-74* my car is regularly seeing 190-199* with the exact same driving routes. Even with the OEM thermostat I have always noticed a wide range in both engine coolant & oil temps due to changing outside ambient temps.
Just a little more info for you to gauge... My '16 z51 with OEM thermostat & untuned, was seeing a consistent 160-165* (engine coolant temp) last week when outside temps were well below 50*. Now that temps are back to 68-74* my car is regularly seeing 190-199* with the exact same driving routes. Even with the OEM thermostat I have always noticed a wide range in both engine coolant & oil temps due to changing outside ambient temps.
That means yours is at least partially stuck open unless you were taking very short trips.
The cars are fully validated to reach operating temp in cold weather.
Well, you can't argue with physics (and I can't argue with evidence). The only explanation for this is that the factory t-stat itself is not a well flowing unit. The difference in opening temp would not alter cooling capacity.
on my Camaro I also used one of the custom made t-stat housing designed to use the LS style t-stat instead of the LT t-stat that are prone to failure. It worked so well that I bought the same setup for my 19 C7Z and will be installing it in a couple of months.
on my Camaro I also used one of the custom made t-stat housing designed to use the LS style t-stat instead of the LT t-stat that are prone to failure. It worked so well that I bought the same setup for my 19 C7Z and will be installing it in a couple of months.
so what is the culprit here? The housing? The t-stat itself? Again, it cannot be the "opening temp" i can't imagine
so what is the culprit here? The housing? The t-stat itself? Again, it cannot be the "opening temp" i can't imagine
Not sure, I just know when I was putting the supercharger on my 17 Camaro SS that LT1/LT4 t-stat failures were prone to that stat. I never had any issues with the custom LS style housing or the LS t-stat so I am going that route on my Z06.
i know you now have it back to normal, but when was running hot, did the heater work? if not, maybe an air pocket, but probably just the stat sticking almost closed