Last summer I started increasing front negative camber and ended at -2.7. I have a separate set of wheels/tires for autocrosses and the -2.7 helped out w/ grinding off the outer edge of the tread of the AX set. But normal street driving the -2.7 will wear out the inside of the tread too quickly. I had pulled one of the two washers from under the UCA frame mount bolts and the rest of the camber was gained w/ the eccentrics. So I was thinking that if I work w/ the washers only, to change camber for the off season, then all I need to do is reset the toein. Relatively easy to do. I ordered enough of the washers that I could stack up to 4 per bolt. The washers are .106 thick. (Planning for this to be a twice per year process and not being impressed w/ the sloppy thread fit of the OEM bolts, I also converted over to studs and nuts/washers. #93275A040 studs $2.75 each from McMaster. I installed the studs w/ blue loctite). My first try I went to 3 per bolt and that got the camber down to -1.7. So it is about .5 camber per washer. I decided that I didn't like the idea of stacking up 4 washers. I am retired, I have an old 1940s lathe, and I had a piece of 1 inch aluminum round bar left from some other project. So I made up a bunch of spacer washers .425 inch thick (= to 4 washers) and installed them in place of washers. Now my camber is down to about -1.0. I reset the toe. You may notice that my numbers do not jive perfectly. Most of the reason is that instead of using my more accurate Longacre tool, I used an old camber gauge that I just hold against the side of the tire. This is accurate enough for going to a winter camber setting. When I reverse the process next March or April I will use the better but more time consuming tools.