Lifting one end with 2 floor jacks...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 105
Likes: 95
From: Odessa, TX
Lifting one end with 2 floor jacks...
Getting ready to do oil/fluid changes. Need to get under it. Read lots of posts regarding jacking.
Problem is, I don't have access to long reach floor jack that can reach the cross members (well, maybe the rearmost one in the back), but I do have 2 "regular" low profile floor jacks.
Here's the plan I am thinking about, let me know if I am asking for trouble or if this is viable.
Using the side frame jack points (with pucks) jack on both sides (rear most pucks) to get both rear wheels up evenly, then set on tire cribs (I have 2).
Repeat moving the jacks to the front frame points (the forward pucks on each side), lift both sides evenly, then stands under the front cross member per manual.
Lowering would be the reverse of the above, starting with the front.
Problem is, I don't have access to long reach floor jack that can reach the cross members (well, maybe the rearmost one in the back), but I do have 2 "regular" low profile floor jacks.
Here's the plan I am thinking about, let me know if I am asking for trouble or if this is viable.
Using the side frame jack points (with pucks) jack on both sides (rear most pucks) to get both rear wheels up evenly, then set on tire cribs (I have 2).
Repeat moving the jacks to the front frame points (the forward pucks on each side), lift both sides evenly, then stands under the front cross member per manual.
Lowering would be the reverse of the above, starting with the front.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 808
Likes: 399
From: NW Georgia
I also say that will work, I was in the same situation last week while doing my first oil change on my 15 Z06. I also have 2 low profile jacks and was considering doing just as you described but instead just decided to use my lifting pucks and one jack, I installed the lifting pucks and put one jack on the rear puck on the driver's side and raised it up high enough to have plenty of working room to get to the oil drain plugs and remove the filter and put my jack stands under the front and rear frames of the car to be safe. I had went to Walmart and bought a 28 qt. low profile plastic storage bin to drain the oil into, it is much easier with no splattering of oil and filter, when I got the plugs and oil filter off, I lowered the one jack on the driver's side down so the car would sit level and let it drain for about 30 minutes, then just jacked it back up and installed the two plugs and the new oil filter. I considered doing like you were thinking with the two jacks but found I had plenty of room even at my age to do the oil change using one jack.
Last edited by seniorstorekeeper; Jan 31, 2022 at 11:32 AM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: Ewa Beach, HI.
I just changed out my exhaust and had to think through the best way to get my rear end lifted. I found by lifting the rear/driving up on a a 2"X4" block of wood under each wheel, I got enough ground clearance to get my floor jack far enough under the vehicle to lift. I'm not sure if you can do the same for the front end, just kicking out ideas
Last edited by SIELMO; Jan 31, 2022 at 12:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 105
Likes: 95
From: Odessa, TX
I've thought about doing the ramps or 2x6's to get enough clearance to get the floor jack under the nose/tail, but there seems to be some conjecture about using the cast subrfame cross member at each end as a single, central jacking point with the discussion quickly moving to needing spreaders or cradles. I've seen pics of people doing it, so it does work. I guess I am being conservative in avoiding lifting the front/back from a single point. Besides, it's easier to get the jacks centered up on the pucks and keep an eye on things. I think....
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 616
From: Blacksburg Va
I do similar to what you are thinking except that I put regular stands under the cross frames. I use two stands because I also worry that the hollow cross frames may not be good to have a single jack under the center. I also have a piece of 2x6 set up to be used to spread the load when I need to jack in the center. When I need to get as high as possible, I sometimes do a couple of steps. First I drive up onto some 2x10s. 2nd I use 2 jacks to jack at both front puck points. I don't go too high because 3rd step is jack at the center cross frame w/ my 2x6 and 3rd jack. So keeping the front just 4-5 inches up I can get the jack to slide under the mufflers etc to access the cross frame. This way I end up w/ 3 points so I don't have to worry about twisting the frame while trying to jack at 4 points. Once I have all 3 jacks placed I just go around and around jacking each one up a further 1.5-2 inches at a time. BTW Harbor Freight often has their small aluminum jacks on sale pretty often so I now have 3 of them.
1.5 Ton Aluminum Rapid Pump® Racing Floor Jack (harborfreight.com)
1.5 Ton Aluminum Rapid Pump® Racing Floor Jack (harborfreight.com)
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,820
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
When I want to use jack stands Vs my MaxJax I jack the car from the front shipping slot location until both wheels on that side of the car are off the ground. Then I place jack stands under the front and rear cradles on the lifted side. After that I go to the other side of the car and lift both wheels off the ground and place jack stands under the cradle on that side. If I need the car level I then go to the rear and use the jack to lift the rear cradle and adjust both jack stands so the car will be level when resting on them.
Another way to do the jack stand placement is to lift the car as far as possible from a front shipping slot, place a jack stand under the cradle and then lower the jack. That will automatically drop the rear tire on that side and lift the front tire on the opposing side. You can actually place a jack stand under it before doing anything else.
There are a lot of combinations you can go through. Just remember to use the special places on the cradles (noted in the OM) to place the jack stands. You don't need cross beam adapters either.
Bill
Another way to do the jack stand placement is to lift the car as far as possible from a front shipping slot, place a jack stand under the cradle and then lower the jack. That will automatically drop the rear tire on that side and lift the front tire on the opposing side. You can actually place a jack stand under it before doing anything else.
There are a lot of combinations you can go through. Just remember to use the special places on the cradles (noted in the OM) to place the jack stands. You don't need cross beam adapters either.
Bill
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 173
Likes: 38
From: Rock Island, TN
You are on the right track Michael A.I have 4 pieces of 2x12 about 24 inches long with a 45 degree cut on the end-makes driving up on them easy. I have 2 Daytona jacks that are low profile but not long reach. They go under the car easily when its up on the 2Xs. I install my pucks then I lift the front or rear at the same time as you described. Jack stands can be placed at the front and/or rear depending on what your working on that day. I don't think I would be comfortable doing the central jacking point thing. That is why I bought another jack to begin with. It's a little time consuming to lift my C7 properly, but I save a ton of money servicing my own car. Just swapping summer tires for my all season tires saves plenty. Plus, I know it's done correctly.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 4,303
Likes: 2,055
From: Margate, FL
Using the side frame jack points (with pucks) jack on both sides (rear most pucks) to get both rear wheels up evenly, then set on tire cribs (I have 2).
Repeat moving the jacks to the front frame points (the forward pucks on each side), lift both sides evenly, then stands under the front cross member per manual.
Repeat moving the jacks to the front frame points (the forward pucks on each side), lift both sides evenly, then stands under the front cross member per manual.
WARNING #1 you have to jack each side (driver and passenger) slowly, inch by inch because the car is so stiff going up too much on just one side will lift it completely off the jack point on the other side.
WARNING #2: you must block the front wheels or else the car could roll away, so I lift the front first then rear. I block the rear wheels as well just to be super safe, but with brake on and the car in gear its not going anywhere.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 485
From: Moberly, Mo
I switched out my drag pack a lot of times and used my two small low profile aluminum jacks that fit right into the jack point opening. Worked like a charm, but when I need to be under the car I had a couple of different short jack stands I used to make sure I was safe.
