2015 C7 Code P0016 Crank Cam position Correlation
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 134
Likes: 20
From: CA
2015 C7 Code P0016 Crank Cam position Correlation
2015 C7 threw this code today on the return leg of a 500 mile trip. During the drive, I could feel a VERY subtle "hiccup" randomly at a constant freeway speed. Car runs fine aside from that, then when pulling into a roadside giftshop after a a couple hours of driving at a somewhat constant speed, the CEL came on. Scan tool shows P0016 as a "Pending Fault" car still runs relatively fine except for that very substantial hiccup.
I Google the hell out of it and am finding ZERO results for this as it relates to C7 Corvettes.
Car is Procharged and tuned, buts its been that way for going on two years. Last month I did have another issue where it started misfiring badly under load. Following reccomendedations here i replaced the plugs and wires and that fixed it. Now this.
Anyone have any intel on where to start looking?
Thanks
I Google the hell out of it and am finding ZERO results for this as it relates to C7 Corvettes.
Car is Procharged and tuned, buts its been that way for going on two years. Last month I did have another issue where it started misfiring badly under load. Following reccomendedations here i replaced the plugs and wires and that fixed it. Now this.
Anyone have any intel on where to start looking?
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,071
Likes: 297
From: Savannah GA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Have to pull the starter to get to the crank sensor. But typically I've had more issues with the cam sensor on the front right middle are of the front cover. My tach wasn't responding correctly and the car stumbled and ran like hell. Turns out the bolt wasn't fully seated the cam sensor was out just a bit (like a 1/8") and that's all it took. Course I have an LME front billet cover but the same would apply with factory cover. The cam sensor is easier to replace and cheap. I would go that route first. Easy to swap. Check harnesses also make sure they are seated and no contaminants in or around the connections.
it's a bit weird b/c my codes were pointing to crank sensor issues but again it turned out to be a cam sensor issue. Best of luck to you! Bill good stuff with service manual print outs. I have the USB manual as well if you need more info.
it's a bit weird b/c my codes were pointing to crank sensor issues but again it turned out to be a cam sensor issue. Best of luck to you! Bill good stuff with service manual print outs. I have the USB manual as well if you need more info.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 134
Likes: 20
From: CA
Have to pull the starter to get to the crank sensor. But typically I've had more issues with the cam sensor on the front right middle are of the front cover. My tach wasn't responding correctly and the car stumbled and ran like hell. Turns out the bolt wasn't fully seated the cam sensor was out just a bit (like a 1/8") and that's all it took. Course I have an LME front billet cover but the same would apply with factory cover. The cam sensor is easier to replace and cheap. I would go that route first. Easy to swap. Check harnesses also make sure they are seated and no contaminants in or around the connections.
it's a bit weird b/c my codes were pointing to crank sensor issues but again it turned out to be a cam sensor issue. Best of luck to you! Bill good stuff with service manual print outs. I have the USB manual as well if you need more info.
it's a bit weird b/c my codes were pointing to crank sensor issues but again it turned out to be a cam sensor issue. Best of luck to you! Bill good stuff with service manual print outs. I have the USB manual as well if you need more info.
Thank you Bill as well for the manual pages!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,071
Likes: 297
From: Savannah GA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Well I replaced the hydraulic solonoid actuator, the magnet actuator cam AND crank sensors. One of them was the problem as it seems to be back to normal the code has not returned. Does anyone else agree that the GM electrical connectors suck? The locking tabs are like they are signed use it something - breaking off all the time.
Thank you Bill as well for the manual pages!
Thank you Bill as well for the manual pages!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 134
Likes: 20
From: CA
Guess what, it's back-but now it's throwing the code on start up! I used the remote start today and the car fired up then **** off 5 seconds later and had the P0016 code again. I started it from inside the car, cleared the code while it was running and drive it into town, **** it off went into a store came out fired back up- throws code again. Cleared code, did some freeway pulls and and hot rodding around, got home **** off. Re-staryed - throws code again. I'm about to take this thing to the junkyard!!!!!
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 615
From: Blacksburg Va
Well crap this isn't good. I see you can read codes. Do you also have the ability to read live data? The only good part of this is it is now happening much more regularly so it 'may' be easier to find the problem. If you can read data, you can try to get cam and crank position data at a time when it is idling w/o a code. And then try to compare data to an instance where you have a code. On Lexus I have seen cam solenoids getting stuck from people not changing oil enough, cam sensors, a crank sensor that had some problem when it got real warm and a couple of sensors where the locating bolt had worked loose. Best wishes to you.
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