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Could someone point me to the fuse controlling the battery maintainer connection in the hatch? Front fuse box or rear? I plugged my C7 CTek unit in after a drive today as per the routine and see no response from the unit except the green light indicating an AC connection. I checked the voltage coming from the car's connector and get no reading. I also plugged in two lighter connectors, checked for current, and got nothing--so I'm assuming the fuse is blown. I just need to know which fuse box and fuse.
Look in the rear fuse block for a fuse labelled Rear accessory power outlet.
You do not say what year vette you have. The fuse numbers have changed over the various model years. You can look at the fuse list on the sticker under the carpet near the rear fuse panel, in your paper manual, or online.
It's a 2017 GS and I'll take a look today, so thanks for the replies. Not sure what caused the problem. Pulled the connector as per usual, ran some errands, and no response when I plugged it in on my return. That connector has been problematic since I owned the car, and I even returned the unit to CTek for a replacement connector but it still gave me trouble. It would disconnect sporadically requiring a re-insertion or twist. I may rig up a standard Battery Tender connector to the battery while in there.
I decided to put off the diagnostics and do some jury-rigging today by converting the CTek from the lighter configuration to a standard Deltran connector, then connect that directly to the battery with an in-line fuse. I've been wanting to do that for a while since the lighter connector has been such a PITA. I used some quick-connects so I can switch to the lighter again in the future, which i probably won't do. Works fine and the connector tucks neatly and out of the way in the rear of the hatch.
There is a recommended sequence to plug and unplug the tender. You should always plug into the 12v first. Then the 120v. When you unplug, do the 120v first then the 12v. I'm not sure that could blow a fuse but worth doing it in the correct sequence. I accidently unplugged 12v first the other day and didn't blow a fuse. But I try to avoid doing that. Unplugging a 12v DC load can cause a kickback spike in voltage which results in a large spike in current. That could be enough to blow a 30 amp fuse.
There is a recommended sequence to plug and unplug the tender.
I thought that sequence was prescribed to avoid a spark that might cause an explosion from battery fumes, but I never followed it. The CTek was always plugged in and the 12v end inserted several hundred times in the past five years, but I guess it only takes once to hit all the right conditions to blow a fuse. I always assumed an explosion risk would only occur if the normal venting was not operational and is more a corporate CYA precaution than a real risk.
I'm betting on the fuse rather than some wiring anomaly, especially after your comments that it might cause a surge, as others have reported blown fuses here without a discernible reason for it happening. It was just easier for me to revamp the connection rather than hassle with pulling the carpet to access the fuse box, and I've been wanting to do that for years anyway. I had to access the fuse box once on my first C7 and it was a PITA.
Have you recently swapped batteries or mucked around that area, possibly disconnecting/breaking a wire?
No, original battery and the only time I've pulled the carpet back to even look in the battery compartment was right after the failure. I did load a bunch of grocery bags in the area on that trip, which is fairly routine, but I can't see how that would affect the lighter connector or its wiring, That said, I never close the connector door after disconnecting, so could something have pressed inside the female connector and caused a short? That's a long shot, but we all know that Murphy is watching and waiting.
For now I'm using a Deltran BT connector on an independent circuit with its own fuse which works fine. That fuse is 7.5A, so if the CTek is prone to surges that fuse should blow much easier that the 30A stock fuse. I've cycled it a dozen times to test with no issues.
Will probably leave further diagnostics to the time when the battery is changed and I'll be rummaging around in that area anyway.