Are there any good videos on this procedure? [or pics/description of the steps] BTW, it is a stock length stud that I am replacing.

 

Don't see any videos but this thread might be useful. Post #2 has procedure.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...heel-stud.html
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Thank you.

 

I am looking at this tonight. So do I take the 3 bolts on the backside of the hub out and leave hub, rotor, caliper and speed sensor all together as one?

 

Check out post 21 and this guys other posts. Make sure to order that tool specified (Install J 43631 ball joint separator on to the wheel hub and stud turn the forcing screw until the stud is pushed out of the hub). His Harbor freight tool didn't work without modification. In post 26 sounds like he says it all comes off as one piece. I don't know jack about this, never did it, just trying to be helpful.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...el-stud-2.html
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Yeah you don’t need to remove the spindle And separate ball joints and what not.

You need a 13 mm offset wrench. Makes the job a million times easier

remove the UCA bolts to angle spindle away

Remove axle nut and push the axle inward,

remove just the lower nut on the LCA attachment to the spindle so it’s easier to access the lower bolt

I think at this point you remove the 3 hub bolts, remove hub and tap out the studs.

 

----------Finally, an answer! Thank you, THANK YOU.

 

I forgot. Pull the speed sensor out or you’ll rip the cable

 

Word of caution, I snapped one and decided to have them all replaced. The replacements, which I believe were ARP, are slightly longer and the splined lug nuts that are used on my Forgestar wheels bottomed out. I had to go to open end spline lug nuts but the stock lug nuts on stock wheels still worked.

 

I don't know if the C7 is the same as the C5 and C6 but if it is you can replace the studs without removing the hub from the knuckle and without tilting the knuckle outward. Front studs were easier than the rear. With the C5/C6 there was a notch in the knuckle that was hidden by the caliper and brake rotor. Once they were removed all that was required was to rotate the hub until the stud of concern was in front the notch in the knuckle and hit it sharply with a 3 lb sledgehammer which will pop the stud out with minimal fuss. Then insert a new stud through the notch and use an open-ended lug nut and a couple of washers to pull the stud into place. In the rear it was necessary to drill a hole a little larger than the head of a stud in the parking brake mounting panel (being careful to avoid the parking brake mounting spring holding slots) and repeat the process for the front.

Looking at the C7 FSM it looks like the front and rear knuckles have notches under the brake caliper/rotor and the C5/C6 technique could be used to change studs on the C7. The C7 parking brake mounts in a different manner than the C5/C6 unit and a little study will need to be made to make sure the hole won't screw up the parking brake mount before drilling a hole in the backing plate panel.

Bill