I went to remove and replace my steering wheel for a new one. I read through most the steering wheel threads and started the project as I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have taken on much more difficult automotive projects. I was one of those where the steering wheel bolt was an absolute bitch - it would not come loose even with heating. I went to use my impact gun as some have and my Torx bit broke. When it broke the bit socket spun up and hit the airbag clock spring electrical tabs/connectors. So, I know I need a new clock spring module (not a huge deal) and, of course I removed the battery cable before I removed the airbag as specified in AllData and in most posts regarding the procedure.

My problem is, the steering column is completely retracted and it needs to be fully extended to be able to remove the steering column trim covers to get to the airbag clock spring connectors. My question is, can I re-attach the battery connections momentarily to extend the steering column, or will that result in some code or error I would need the dealer to reprogram/fix? Is there a manual way to extend the column? I would disconnect the battery once the column is extended. I would also be sure none of the connectors on that tab are touching as I can't imagine that would be a good thing either.

I'm ticked this dumb mistake happened and it goes right into the what can go wrong will go wrong column.

Here is a pic of the destruction:

 

You'll get an airbag light, but it should clear on its own once you get the car fully reassembled.

 

Wanted to update, I was able to disconnect the large harness behind the clock spring by reaching back there with a pick. I was confident that harness was for the steering wheel controls as there is another small harness I figured was for the airbag. I really wanted to remove the wheel control harness before attaching the battery cable because the connectors on the front side were so mangled. I was pretty worried about a hidden short that might cause some really expensive problems. I reconnected the negative battery cable and I was able to extend the steering wheel without activating the ignition and therefore no dash lights or codes. Removed the trim covers and now I wait for the new clock spring to arrive later this week. This whole thing should have been a half hour job, hour max...

I'm crossing my fingers the steering angle sensor doesn't give me any hassles after I remove and replace it on the new clock spring.

I'll find out next weekend and will report back either way.

 

I haven't done one on a Corvette, and from what you have posted I think you probably know this but, be sure to read up on replacing that spring and how to handle it's alignment. I messed up on another car once and was really surprised how little effort it took to ruin a new spring after I installed it incorrectly.

 

Thank you @CraigStu - yes I have been researching the heck out of this and it doesn't appear that many have replaced a clock spring on a C7. Probably because of the low miles on most of them. I'm sharing my experience here because I think as some of our C7's age and change hands this could come up with somebody else down the line. And since I'm not replacing it, I'm hopeful the existing steering angle sensor stays in calibration and I won't need a diagnostic tool to recalibrate it.

 

In addition to another carnage pic, I'm going to add my experience to the existing steering wheel threads that I would NEVER recommend an impact driver for the removal of the steering wheel bolt. It's just too difficult to control if the bolt comes off too fast or if it seizes up and the Torx socket fails. Ironically, when I first tried the impact, the bolt started to come out. It's only when I slowed with the impact in fear that the bolt would come out and fly off is when it got stuck. Just when I was at my wits end with the stuck bolt, I went back with the 1/2" breaker bar and the constant pressure worked great to remove the bolt where the impact wouldn't budge it.

Three hours and four broken Torx bits later, finally success. I'm so lucky the bolt didn't strip - I was really worried.

 

Wanted to update this for those that might run into some aspect of this during a steering wheel swap or any other need to remove the wheel. I received the new clock spring and mine came with a Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) attached. Since my existing SAS was good, I swapped it to the new clock spring hoping it would maintain the calibration since it had been calibrated to my car. It unclips from the clock spring - just be careful with the plastic tabs holding it on (there are four of them). I used four toothpicks to hold the plastic tabs back so I could pull it off evenly and not break the plastic. I didn't want to have to go through diagnostic recalibration if I could avoid it. I installed the new wheel and it was very simple. Had the original factory bolt come out easy, it would have been an hour job max only because it was all new. When I ordered the steering wheel, I was smart enough to order an extra bolt so I was prepared just in case and would recommend doing the same thing if you take it on - they're cheap.

What I wanted to follow up with is pics of the airbag and the removal tabs. If you research the airbag removal it says push in on the tabs through the sides of the steering wheel but that was ambiguous to me - not sure how far or how hard to push in. What I found is you really can't push too far and you can feel it when you've pushed the retaining tabs in so they can release the airbag assembly. I used a trim tool with a microfiber towel under it to protect the steering wheel when I pried up on the airbag/horn assembly. Push in one tab spring, pull on the airbag/horn assembly or gently pry out a bit with the trim tool and leave the tool under it and then move to the other side. If you don't leave the tool under it will snap back in when you try to pry out the opposite side. It's snapped in there pretty tight and that's a good thing.

Here are the airbag pics with the tab spring (snaps onto the steering wheel frame) showed in YELLOW circles and the area you push the tab with a tool in RED. The tool (small punch, Allen wrench or similar) goes through the side of the steering wheel and into the "cone" to release the tab spring. You do not need to move the steering wheel from a straight position when you do this. When you put it back together and push the airbag/horn assembly back on, you'll feel it snap onto the tabs in the steering wheel. Now you know what it's snapping to and how it works.

I hope this helps somebody in the future.