When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's better than nothing but when the car starts almost immediately you're not getting much of a load test. IMO the best information it will give you is you should pull the battery and have it load tested if you get a suspect reading. I think if this shows the battery is good it's still questionable.
it doesn't matter what car you do that procedure on, that's a **** test. the c7 isn't special either, just go get the battery load tested at your favourite auto parts store.
the most accurate way to do this is to charge it to full, disconnect it and wait 8 hours, then have it properly load tested.
lots of people miss that second part, and usually the first part, and sometimes even that last part.
That procedure will work on ANY car and that is a good number being 9.6 volts while cranking...a test with a carbon pile load tester is better but I prefer using my scopes' starting/charging system program which I do on ANY car I diagnose (picture below) which is then given to the customer...max current draw, battery and starter motor internal resistance, and AC ripple voltage are checked…waiting 8 hours is NOT neccessary and I've never heard of doing that procedure...by doing that any stored DTC's are cleared, all IM monitors are reset and you run the risk of having the engine idle poorly due to an idle relearn being needed...you only have to remove the "surface charge" from the battery by turning on the headlights for a few minutes.
I use a very simple test on the battery. If the electronics start getting wonkie, the Gremlins are having a party, and the battery is over 42 months old, I go to the Parts Magician at the Dealer. He usually makes them go away with his magic battery.
it doesn't matter what car you do that procedure on, that's a **** test. the c7 isn't special either, just go get the battery load tested at your favourite auto parts store.
the most accurate way to do this is to charge it to full, disconnect it and wait 8 hours, then have it properly load tested.
lots of people miss that second part, and usually the first part, and sometimes even that last part.
While this may not be the most definitive test on a battery, I believe it is still a useful one. The starter's highest current draw (and voltage drop) will be just as the solenoid closes, before it starts to rotate. The fact that the engine starts immediately probably doesn't change what the minimum voltage reading would be.
Yes that test has some value emphasis on the word 'some'. Over the last 20 years I have become more inclined to go by the calender. A dead battery is one of the worst automotive pains in the a$$. I replace ours at 5 years unless there is a problem before that. If you are driving a mainstream vehicle like an F150 or a Camry you can find a battery nearly anywhere if you break down. And just about anyone can change it. A Stingray is a whole other deal. 1st you need a battery. But then you need to replace it. When BMW used to put the battery in some of their models under the rear seat that was no fun. For me, our cars may not be the worst but they are far from a quick easy job. I would much rather do the job on my schedule than on some other schedule.
