New Battery, Some Minor Electrical Function But Car Won't Start...
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Joined: May 2017
Posts: 88
Likes: 29
From: Delaware
New Battery, Some Minor Electrical Function But Car Won't Start...
Recently had some rear end work (new mufflers and diffusers added) done and the car (GS 2019) ran twice with no problem. The third time I go to start it and it sounds like the battery is not charged...full power on the dash but the car won't turn over. I get out and check the battery, and when I open the door, the window moves to the point that I can't close the door without scrapping the exterior. I check the battery, disconnect everything, check the charge and it is low. Long story short, the battery won't hold a charge, so I get a new one. I install it and all the connections are tight. but now I only get minor electrical responses...exterior lights come on, the door sounds like it is locking and unlocking when I use the fob but the door won't open...so the car is getting power but the dash isn't even coming on now. If I don't disconnect the battery, the exterior lights stay on. I can't figure the issue out. The closest video I found was this one and the only reason I think it may be a similar issue is the shop may have pulled out the trunk carpet to take the rear off for the mufflers and diffusers. I did try sticking the fob in the steering column with no luck.
Any suggestions or information would be greatly appreciate. Thanks!
Any suggestions or information would be greatly appreciate. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 88
Likes: 29
From: Delaware
The 350A bolt connection was the reason I bought a new fuse block...I couldn't get it snugged down and the top of the bolt looked cross threaded.
It is a tough one to tighten all the way. Should it be this hard to tighten? Any recommendations on how to sink it all the way? Again, I feel like I am rounding the nut head at this point and the old fuse block was just as bad to tighten.
Thanks.
Last edited by TracksZ06; Feb 8, 2023 at 05:03 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 919
Likes: 266
From: Ft. Worth Tx.
Thanks for responding. I thought they were all snug. I actually bought a new fuse block as well due to one of the bolts seeming to be stripped on the old one. I went back out and checked. I can run a thin string under the 350A bolt connection. It looks snug but there is a small gap. I just tried tightening it further and it feels like I am round the bolt.
The 350A bolt connection was the reason I bought a new fuse block...I couldn't get it snugged down and the top of the bolt looked cross threaded.
It is a tough one to tighten all the way. Should it be this hard to tighten? Any recommendations on how to sink it all the way? Again, I feel like I am rounding the nut head at this point and the old fuse block was just as bad to tighten.
Thanks.
The 350A bolt connection was the reason I bought a new fuse block...I couldn't get it snugged down and the top of the bolt looked cross threaded.
It is a tough one to tighten all the way. Should it be this hard to tighten? Any recommendations on how to sink it all the way? Again, I feel like I am rounding the nut head at this point and the old fuse block was just as bad to tighten.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 88
Likes: 29
From: Delaware
Well thanks to my awesome Corvette shop, I am back in business. I wanted to update the thread in case anyone else every encounters this issue. The 350 amp fuse wire is a horrible design to an already horrible design for the battery. GM seriously couldn't spend $1-$2 to put handles on the battery?? Anyway, I purchased a new fuse block thinking the 350 amp bolt in question was cross threaded on the old fuse block. Got it 3/4 of the way sunk on the new one and it just wouldn't go anymore. BIG THANKS for all the excellent pics on this forum to let me know that was the issue. Before installation, I tested the bolt in question with one of the other fuse nuts before installing and it screwed on and off all the way with no issues or resistance.
Long story sort, the shop had to cut the captive nut off the bolt and then off the fuse cable as well. They were able to use the old fuse block and a new nut with teeth to finish the job. The set bolt for the 350 amp fuse was actually rotating in the block casing and not allowing for it to be tightened down all the way. Maybe I just got a bad nut and fuse block but the whole thing smacked of "by design" engineering by GM to get more people to take their car to the dealership for service. Thank God for my Corvette shop!
Long story sort, the shop had to cut the captive nut off the bolt and then off the fuse cable as well. They were able to use the old fuse block and a new nut with teeth to finish the job. The set bolt for the 350 amp fuse was actually rotating in the block casing and not allowing for it to be tightened down all the way. Maybe I just got a bad nut and fuse block but the whole thing smacked of "by design" engineering by GM to get more people to take their car to the dealership for service. Thank God for my Corvette shop!
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
Well thanks to my awesome Corvette shop, I am back in business. I wanted to update the thread in case anyone else every encounters this issue. The 350 amp fuse wire is a horrible design to an already horrible design for the battery. GM seriously couldn't spend $1-$2 to put handles on the battery?? Anyway, I purchased a new fuse block thinking the 350 amp bolt in question was cross threaded on the old fuse block. Got it 3/4 of the way sunk on the new one and it just wouldn't go anymore. BIG THANKS for all the excellent pics on this forum to let me know that was the issue. Before installation, I tested the bolt in question with one of the other fuse nuts before installing and it screwed on and off all the way with no issues or resistance.
Long story sort, the shop had to cut the captive nut off the bolt and then off the fuse cable as well. They were able to use the old fuse block and a new nut with teeth to finish the job. The set bolt for the 350 amp fuse was actually rotating in the block casing and not allowing for it to be tightened down all the way. Maybe I just got a bad nut and fuse block but the whole thing smacked of "by design" engineering by GM to get more people to take their car to the dealership for service. Thank God for my Corvette shop!
Long story sort, the shop had to cut the captive nut off the bolt and then off the fuse cable as well. They were able to use the old fuse block and a new nut with teeth to finish the job. The set bolt for the 350 amp fuse was actually rotating in the block casing and not allowing for it to be tightened down all the way. Maybe I just got a bad nut and fuse block but the whole thing smacked of "by design" engineering by GM to get more people to take their car to the dealership for service. Thank God for my Corvette shop!
Ended up taking off the 350 amp nut connector and placing some No-alox grease on the stud. This prevented the nut threads from galling. Then carefully aligned and tightened the connector again. This time it went all the way down and tightened solid!
it started right up and doors were fine after this. 👍😊
