After I did all my mods, heads/cam/headers/e85, etc. I have a clunk in the chassis or suspension that is worse in warm weather than cold.

It mainly occurs while turning right and the suspension moves due to a bump or turning in an intersection where the road is not flat.

I've had my builder check all fasteners and everything is buttoned up properly.

He did mention the ARH LT collectors sit very close to the tunnel plate and wonders if it's touching momentarily when the chassis flexes.

So that got me to thinking. Can I just remove the tunnel plate and drive it for a few days to observe if the clunk goes away? From what I'm reading I can.

I won't be driving it hard or taking it to the track. I'll just drive it on the street like normal and observe if the sound is eliminated. If it is, then I'll just get spacers for the tunnel plate or buy the TSP one and solve the problem.

 

Normal driving on the street to help identify the source and you will be fine.

 

Confirmed with TSP when I called them to see if I could buy the spacers.

Thx

 

Update. I removed the tunnel plate and drove the car for a week with it off. It made no difference, so it's not the exhaust touching the tunnel plate.

I pulled the left front tire with the car on a jack stand and jacked the control arm up. It clunked/popped one time but would not do it again and I couldn't pinpoint where it came from.

I'm pretty sure it's in the suspension on the left side of the car. The sway bar end link feels tight. The car only has 13k miles of street driving that I can tell. 6k is from our ownership. Nothing is loose.

I'm thinking about taking it to a specialty shop here in town that works on sports cars to have them look at it. It's just really irritating to drive with the clunk.

I tried recording it using the PDR but you can barely hear it on the audio when it happens even though it is pretty loud inside the car.

 

Update for anyone else with this issue. I believe I fixed it.

Based on some other posts here I decided to swap out the front driver's side sway bar end link. It was $38 from Amazon so not an expensive attempt at just throwing parts at the problem.

When I went to remove the bolts I did the control arm end first. The bolt was IMO a little too easy to remove. The stud did not spin in the link so it came off without using two wrenches to hold the stud while removing the bolt.

The top bolt where it attaches to the sway bar was not as cooperative. It took some time to remove.

Once I got the end link off it did not appear to be defective. But, since it was already off I put the new one on anyway.

I was able to torque to 44 ft lbs but there was no way I was getting 30 degrees addtional turn on the bolts. I got more like 20 degrees and was cranking hard on the bolt so I stopped there and put the car back together.

It seems to have completely stopped the clunking. Drove the car 3 separate trips yesterday and the suspension clunked 1 time and that was it. Chalking that up to these things make suspension noise at times.

Before the swap it would have clunked at almost every turn or bump that loads the suspension.

Long story short, check yor sway bar end link bolts first if you start having a weird clunk in your suspension. It may be that easy to fix