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The negative has been disconnected a couple of times due to all the working on the AC compressor. The windows are working perfectly one minute and then the driver side stopped. I bought a new switch , I have checked all the fuses in the rear fuse box as well as in the front under the hood. The window did not show any sign of motor problems before it stopped working. So before I change the motor out, can anyone think of anything else that I might possibly do? I have also switched the 30 amp fuse in position #1 with the one next to it to no avail. 😖
I would do one last 30 min battery disconnect just to be sure. Free and easy.
Does the outside mirror adjust? Does the door switch light up? Should act the same as passenger door switch. If so, this may confirm any wiring, fuse, and connectors are good.
It would be nice to read the codes before just throwing parts at the problem. Don't know if an auto parts store can read these:
DTC B316B or B317A Driver/Passenger Window Switch
DTC B3205 or B3210 Driver/Passenger Window Motor
See the attached window schematics. It is not as simple as voltage / ground through the switch operates the window motor - there is some kind of logic module involved.
I would do one last 30 min battery disconnect just to be sure. Free and easy.
Does the outside mirror adjust? Does the door switch light up? Should act the same as passenger door switch. If so, this may confirm any wiring, fuse, and connectors are good.
It would be nice to read the codes before just throwing parts at the problem. Don't know if an auto parts store can read these:
DTC B316B or B317A Driver/Passenger Window Switch
DTC B3205 or B3210 Driver/Passenger Window Motor
See the attached window schematics. It is not as simple as voltage / ground through the switch operates the window motor - there is some kind of logic module involved.
Here is the redrawn OE wiring..a little easier to interpret !!..all you need is a 12 volt INCANDESCENT test light (not LED) to diagnose…before jumping to conclusions and replacing the motor I would check the ground…G301…access the motor connector and unplug it and take your test light connected to power probe the black wire terminal…if ground is good the test light should be bright…you will have to remove some trim to access the ground.
Here is the redrawn OE wiring..a little easier to interpret !!..all you need is a 12 volt INCANDESCENT test light (not LED) to diagnose…before jumping to conclusions and replacing the motor I would check the ground…G301…access the motor connector and unplug it and take your test light connected to power probe the black wire terminal…if ground is good the test light should be bright…you will have to remove some trim to access the ground.
Window switch did not solve problem.
