I had a couple questions I was hoping I could get help with. I installed a new engine and have it ready to go and it won’t turn over. My battery sat for a long time waiting for the motor to come back and wasn’t on a trickle charger and went bad. Replaced that and I may hear a click that would lead me to the starter but before I replace it, I was curious if maybe I have a ground bad somewhere and that could be the issue? The car turns on and everything seems to work except it won’t crank.

1.) I have the grounds on the back side of both heads. The one on the driver front is grounded to the block correct? There are two grounds near the starter and I put both of them to the block. Does one go to the block and one the body?

2.) On the starter, I just have the connected and one ring terminal right?

3. I don’t have my hood on and I get the notification. I am assuming that wouldn’t cause a issue.

I haven’t check my fuses yet. Just want to eliminate other issues before I do the starter.

thanks

 

Same PCM that came with the car or an aftermarket piggyback system?

In the tune, is the clutch position sensor enabled or disabled?

Is the small black ground wire from the battery attached/tightened correctly? Leaving that little wire out does crazy stuff.

If you take the starter to a parts store they can test it. I'd be surprised if it went bad.

Have you checked how many amps you're seeing at the starter?

When you try to start the car, what does the battery voltage drop to?

 

I will check it out probably Wednesday.

Clutch Position sensor is enabled.

I do have a junkyard front fuse box. When I was removing the old one. The main terminal bolt wouldnt come loose. I had a wrench on the back
side but somehow the metal strip broke. So there maybe a chance that the relay or a fuse is bad. I did a visual but more of a confirmation that they had the same setup.

 

Well I am dumb. I decide to check again. The new engine fuse box was missing the starter relay. Now I am getting some life. I believe the sound is the starter relay. I must not be getting
power to my starter. I will have Jack it up and confirm. I swapped all my relays from my old board to the new one.

Where does the starter power run from.

 

From the battery terminal on the back of the fuse box.

 

Have you tried the starter off the car to see if it actually runs on its own? Different engine, so is the starter clearanced properly on the engine to be sure nothing is binding when it tries to engage? Have you turned over the engine by had with the starter bolted on, but NOT engaged? Next, are all the connections from the battery terminal clamps onward recently cleaned of possible corrosion and tight? All the best.

 

I work 12.5 hr shifts and have a commute plus heat in Phoenix. Looked over the fuse box today. Waiting for my wife to help so I can use my amp clamp to check the power cable to the starter. I was planning on removing and trying to see the solenoid pops out the gear when not installed. Checked the black cable to the battery and appears good.

working through things. Figured I would see if it clicked for anyone.

 

I dropped the starter and tried to start it to see if the gear pops out and no success. Pulled it out and took it in to get tested and passed. Battery voltage didn’t really drop on the battery. I didn’t loosen the battery small black wire that people told me need to be tight. There are only the two wires on the starter right? The power wire that goes on the stud and the black snap connector.

I can hear the relay. Just trying to figure what to check next.

 

From your description, I think battery voltage it not connected to the large stud on the starter. Trace the wire up to the underhood fuse block.

 

I went to loosen the nut on the stud without disconnecting the battery and my wrench can confirm there is power there lol.

 

I will check the ground connector. I think it has to be something on that side since I power to the power side.

 

I actually am starting to think the black connector is solenoid control wire and it must ground through the block?

 

There's a wiring schematic in this thread ===> https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-real-fix.html

 

Thank you. This is what I needed

 

Riddle me this. I have 12.7V to the power stud on the back of the back of the engine fuse box. I also have 12.7V on the starter stud when i use a engine ground. At this point, it has to pretty much be the black connector to the solenoid. I dont have a great tool for checking my starter relay. I can check and make sure the power is off when the relay isnt powered but not a good way to power it and test it easily. I could make some wires with spade terminals and go from there. The question is, if my relay is good, what then. That black connector feeds into the wiring harness. Is there a way to abandon that one in place and run a new one? I will let you know how the relay tests out and and hope that that is all it is.

 

I made my own tester. Coil was 80 ohms and switch side was O.L. when not powered which was to be expected. When powered, the switch side measured like .01 ohms. I am thinking that since this is a fuse box out of a junk yard car and it didnt have a starter relay in it that maybe there is a issue with the fuse box. Has anyone ever split these and fix connections or is it worth buying a new one.

 

The main starter cable goes to the terminal on the passenger side fuse box. A cable goes to the battery from their with fuse. If that fuse was blown you wouldn't have dash lights. I have a wire spliced on the wire that goes to the black connector on the starter. Just so I can bump the engine over, it takes 12v. I would try to turn the engine manually with a wrench. Since ita new build you could have pushed the thrust bearing causing it to lock up. If you have an arp crank bolt I attached a pic of the wrench I use, it's 1 1/16.

 

I will confirm tomorrow turning over by hand. I have 1 1/16 socket that wont fit. The largest wrench I have is 1". Even if it was bound, I would think I would still hear the solenoid kick out which it doesnt. When I press the start button, my dash acts a little off. I posted a video above. I thought it may have been associated with a ground but the plastic base for the front fuse box was damaged they told me when I bought the fuse box. I tried splitting it to see if I can inspect the since but it is pressed together pretty good.

 

Motor turns over fine with wrench. Fuse box isnt the issue. Tested the power on the fuse box at on the coil with spade connectors. 12.4V. Tested voltage across the switch side at 10.4 V. Figured that is probably it as it may not be enough to get the solenoid. It also could be that I didnt have the best connection. Resistance from relay switch to starter was O.L. on both sides of the switch side of the relay. Resistance to positive side of battery was fine. I tore back the heat wrap on that part of the harness nothing sticks out. Any ideas? I was getting OL to the starter connector with the new fuse box even and it had new fuses and relays so I cannot be the starter fuse. Any recommendations? I would have expected to read a low resistance on one side of the relay switch to the starter connector. Rather than rip the whole heat wrapped harness apart, I am temped to just find it out of the fuse box and tap into it and run a new wire. More importantly, I am confused how it would have gone bad? The header was a tight fit but I dont see where I snagged it.

 

I am going to try and test a proof of concept by making a mini relay harness and having the side for the wire to the starter go straight to the starter with a inline 30amp fuse to test before i go bananas.