When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was out at Eagles Canyon Raceway today, battling 107* heat and in one session a wasp was also trying to beat the heat and stowed away inside the car while it was parked in the pits. It was quite exciting to discover him crawling on my arm going uphill into a blind 90* turn at high speed. Got a little sting on the arm and finished the sequence with an "off" into the grass which fortunately was at very low speed so no damage to the car
Anyway....post track day inspection has revealed I have a leaky rear diff pump hose. At first I thought I split the boot on the axle but it's try as a bone and the (now clean) fitting in the pic below was covered in gunk. Of course the airflow made sure to decorate other adjacent areas as well. What really sucks is that you have to buy these things as an assembly to the tune of almost $300 with tax.
Anyone seen them cheaper? The part number is 24265567 and I've searched all the usual low price suspects.
Looks like they have a retaining clip to secure them, so that should be a joy. Any tips or advice?
Parker store (hydraulic hose shop) could probably make one for you
Thanks Ernie, I'll have to see what they say. I like a leaf in the wind....1 day I want the Eaton hoses that GM used and then other days I want something that may be a bit more robust.
I'm still trying to figure out how to disconnect the hose. I need to look closer because if there's a clip, I'm not seeing it. Ditto trying to understand if it has a ring to pull or push so the hose pops free. I don't want to experiment on the car and get lucky, pop it free, and drain the eLSD
BTW There is something about doing a proceedure on the car after that system has been opened. And it's different than just changing the fluid.
Does anyone here know what? The last time I did mine the car had to go back to dealer for some special tools and whatever that proceedure is. It cost a little over $ 500.00 to have it done. My rear diff is out right now and we're going back together with it now.
Also some heat and air places can make those hoses for you.
BTW There is something about doing a proceedure on the car after that system has been opened. And it's different than just changing the fluid.
Does anyone here know what? The last time I did mine the car had to go back to dealer for some special tools and whatever that proceedure is. It cost a little over $ 500.00 to have it done. My rear diff is out right now and we're going back together with it now.
Also some heat and air places can make those hoses for you.
100% correct, you have to use a GM MDI 2 scan tool to bleed it and there's a fitting you install on the high pressure line during the process as well.
Would it be possible for you to take some pics of the hose ends? I'm trying to figure out what I'm dealing with. Also....how do you disconnect them? Normally I'd just poke around until I figure it out but in this case, even I know that's not the smartest approach to use!
I've reached out to Autel to see if their scanner supports this function. LINK
Last edited by 96GS#007; Aug 21, 2023 at 03:55 PM.
100% correct, you have to use a GM MDI 2 scan tool to bleed it and there's a fitting you install on the high pressure line during the process as well.
Would it be possible for you to take some pics of the hose ends? I'm trying to figure out what I'm dealing with. Also....how do you disconnect them? Normally I'd just poke around until I figure it out but in this case, even I know that's not the smartest approach to use!
I've reached out to Autel to see if their scanner supports this function. LINK
Sorry I can't help with pictures. My car is at a shop some distance from me.
In case anyone stumbles upon this, below is a pic from an old Eaton catalog showing the tool and the connector halves. Basically the tool slips between the halves, pushing a sleeve back that releases the locking ring. Eaton Hydraulics was sold off to Danfoss but everything should still be available. STC = Snap To Connect
I did drive the car today and there was no leakage/mess. Looks like it only happens when it's getting worked over on the track. I have to take an 80 mile round trip drive tomorrow and I'm going to take the Vette....numbers, aero, and all ....and we'll see what it looks like when I get back home.
Would it be possible to make a jumper for the diff pump for bleeding purposes? Like we can for the intercooler pump. Looks like diff pump is fuse 10 under the hood.
Would it be possible to make a jumper for the diff pump for bleeding purposes? Like we can for the intercooler pump. Looks like diff pump is fuse 10 under the hood.
I think the pump is tied in through the BCM so it's not a simple matter of turning it on/off although I'd think with a little time and a schematic it could be sorted out. I'm not home but as I recall, a VCX Nano (knock off the GDS2 tool) can cycle the pump. Way easier IMO.
I think the pump is tied in through the BCM so it's not a simple matter of turning it on/off although I'd think with a little time and a schematic it could be sorted out. I'm not home but as I recall, a VCX Nano (knock off the GDS2 tool) can cycle the pump. Way easier IMO.
Thanks. When you’re able can you let me know if that’s the right scan tool.
So any more information on the correct scan tool to eLSD service?
Finally got around to this. I will say that VCX Nano....at least for me....is a pain in the *** to get up and running. Could just be that I rarely use it so I'm out of practice.
Anyway, long story short is that the functionality is there. Obviously I wasn't going to run the actual bleed but yes...it's a button push away. The car does need to be running per the Service Manual and if it's not you get an error. I didn't want to experience "no good deed shall go unpunished" so I left well enough alone. 100* here today so I wasn't in the mood to play around in the interest of science.
Diff pump hoses
Gotta pay to play sometimes 
100% correct, you have to use a GM MDI 2 scan tool to bleed it and there's a fitting you install on the high pressure line during the process as well.
