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Post track day inspection and I seem to have developed an oil leak. I've looked all around the top of the engine (including using a borescope) to see if it was from the intake, valley cover, valve covers, etc and there's no evidence/sign of oil. From underneath, the drip is at the bottom of the pan on the bolt closest to the starter. Peaking inside the bellhousing, the flywheel, clutch, and interior surfaces are all dry so It's not the rear main seal
Seems to be the right rear corner of the pan, above the starter. I attempted to retorque the bolts but apparently the prior shop I used either didn't bother with a torque wrench or overtightened them. The spec is 18 lb/ft and the torque wrench immediately "clicks".
The oil pan is a huge pain in the *** to remove. I despise leaks of any sort and in this case I don't need oil blowing onto the header during a track day so I'm looking for ideas of how to crutch it vs straight to removal.
I was thinking to drop the starter (pretty easy with headers) and spread "The Right Stuff" around the perimeter as best I could. Any other thoughts? Some pics for your viewing pleasure....
On another vehicle I was able to do what you want to attempt with success.
I guess every leak is different though.
What irritates the hell out of me is when shops do work for you at a high cost and are supposed to be pros and **** happens like this that could’ve easily been prevented.
Thats why as much as I hate it I try to do all my own work if possible.
when this motor ever gets tired I’m not sure what I’m gonna do because my worst fear is getting my upgraded motor done by someone and 3 months later having issues like this.
In this world anymore to get good professional work done that you can trust is very slim.
im sorry YOU have to deal with this.
Last edited by Gary barnes 1098; Aug 24, 2023 at 01:27 PM.
Reason: Spelling
My own personal experience with sub-standard professional work - Probably 35 years ago (you've re-kindled an old memory!), I took our 1972 LT-1 to a local, long-established (even for then) two-man Corvette specialist parts and restoration shop; for what I can't remember, as I'd always done 99% of the work myself.
Must have been very shortly after the repair the engine didn't seem to be running as it should. I looked around and found a spark plug boot not attached to it's plug, the plug wire just hanging loose by the head. Couldn't believe something so simple was missed.
OK, back to C7 issues. I feel better now. Sorry you have to contend with this.
This has been an unmitigated disaster. Took forever, crap fasteners, broken clips, missing retainers, the BS with the cats I paid for and didn't get until I called them on it (and then I got **** for quality parts), and on and on. And now an oil leak.
My guess is that they used an air ratchet to install the pan, over-tightened the bolts, and it squeezed too much sealer out (C7s don't use a gasket). Now that it's been heat-cycled several times, whatever little sealer was left finally gave way.
This is exactly why I usually do everything myself. As both you gents pointed out, professionalism is severely lacking these days.
This has been an unmitigated disaster. Took forever, crap fasteners, broken clips, missing retainers, the BS with the cats I paid for and didn't get until I called them on it (and then I got **** for quality parts), and on and on. And now an oil leak.
My guess is that they used an air ratchet to install the pan, over-tightened the bolts, and it squeezed too much sealer out (C7s don't use a gasket). Now that it's been heat-cycled several times, whatever little sealer was left finally gave way.
This is exactly why I usually do everything myself. As both you gents pointed out, professionalism is severely lacking these days.
Yeah, I remembered your write-up from some time back detailing all the eff'ed up fasteners, etc. That would have really ticked me off, too.
Post track day inspection and I seem to have developed an oil leak. I've looked all around the top of the engine (including using a borescope) to see if it was from the intake, valley cover, valve covers, etc and there's no evidence/sign of oil. From underneath, the drip is at the bottom of the pan on the bolt closest to the starter. Peaking inside the bellhousing, the flywheel, clutch, and interior surfaces are all dry so It's not the rear main seal
Seems to be the right rear corner of the pan, above the starter. I attempted to retorque the bolts but apparently the prior shop I used either didn't bother with a torque wrench or overtightened them. The spec is 18 lb/ft and the torque wrench immediately "clicks".
The oil pan is a huge pain in the *** to remove. I despise leaks of any sort and in this case I don't need oil blowing onto the header during a track day so I'm looking for ideas of how to crutch it vs straight to removal.
I was thinking to drop the starter (pretty easy with headers) and spread "The Right Stuff" around the perimeter as best I could. Any other thoughts? Some pics for your viewing pleasure....
Oil dampness next to starter
2nd view of oil dampness
The drip!
Cleaned up
I also have an oil pan leak on my C6…it’s due for an oil change anyway so I’m going to drain the oil and then use my smoke machine to hopefully see exactly where it’s coming from…the hard part is supporting the engine and lowering the front cradle to get at the bolts at the front of the pan.
Well....just a quick update. I torqued all the pan bolts as mentioned before. However....the one with the drip just more than finger tight (keeping in mind the torque spec is only 106 in/lb). If not for sealer, I'm pretty sure it would have fallen out eventually. Cleaned everything to within an inch of its life. I used a lot of brake cleaner in the hole and shooting it up to the block and kept spraying and cleaning until it was clean drips. I then applied some gray "The Right Stuff" sealer (well worth the added cost IMO). I gobbed some sealer on the threaded portion of the bolt (except for the first 1/4" of the threads so I could get it to engage) and around the bolt head and then torqued it. I let it sit overnight although this sealer is a "1 hour Return to Service" type.
I've since taken the car out on public roads (get some funny looks with all the aero and the numbers and such ) multiple times. Close to 80 miles of driving. Highway, stop & go, Blasts to 6000rpm +/-, etc. So far....fingers crossed...no leak.
I probably just jinxed myself. Regardless, at least it seems "manageable" even if it is leaking. If I have a minor drip every couple hundred miles, I can live with that for awhile. What I can't live with is oil blowing back on hot exhaust in the middle of a track day.
Oil pan leak :ugh:
) multiple times. Close to 80 miles of driving. Highway, stop & go, Blasts to 6000rpm +/-, etc. So far....fingers crossed...no leak.
