Vacuum line relocation?
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 676
Likes: 196
From: Chester SC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16, '21,'24
Thanks for your reply. Now to figure out how to get that driver’s side cover mounted without scratching it!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,832
Likes: 209
From: Canton GA
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St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'10-'11-'12
Ok, as far as a parts list for my Dry Sump Z51 engine:
Starting with the right angle large fitting that connects to the right side valve cover, it was removed from the factory hose. It's actually pretty easy but you need a high heat gun to heat up the plastic line. Wear gloves, the plastic needs to be pretty hot! I simply could not find the fitting itself.
All of the PCV hose as well as the coolant overflow hose is silicon 3/8" from Amazon:
The hose runs under the injector covers and under the cowl where there is a Tee fitting for
the connector from the middle of the valve cover which is GM P/N 12653216 - ordered from Rockauto.
Using a 3/8"-3/8"-3/8" Tee fitting from misc vacuum Tee's and fittings:
the hoses join under the cowl and run to the dry sump canister.
I haven't investigated the wet sump nor LT4 systems.
I used this spring clamp assortment for the coolant line:
It's routed under the air filter box, Tee'd so one goes to the thermostat housing and the other to the overflow tank.
For the evap hose I used a right angle 1/4" to 1/4" Dorman P/N 47092 (found it at Oriley's)
Then a 1/4" to 1/4" barbed hose connector to 1/4" fuel line. Then a 1/4" to 3/8" barbed hose fitting to a short length of the silicon hose then to this right angle quick connect:
to connect to the hard line going down to the canister.
The right angle fitting that connects to the evap canister hard line:
All of the hoses were cut to length, I can try to get measurements but the key is to route them away from moving parts (alternator) and hot manifolds or headers, and don't kink them by making hard bends. There's plenty of room to route them safely.
Starting with the right angle large fitting that connects to the right side valve cover, it was removed from the factory hose. It's actually pretty easy but you need a high heat gun to heat up the plastic line. Wear gloves, the plastic needs to be pretty hot! I simply could not find the fitting itself.
All of the PCV hose as well as the coolant overflow hose is silicon 3/8" from Amazon:
The hose runs under the injector covers and under the cowl where there is a Tee fitting for
the connector from the middle of the valve cover which is GM P/N 12653216 - ordered from Rockauto.
Using a 3/8"-3/8"-3/8" Tee fitting from misc vacuum Tee's and fittings:
the hoses join under the cowl and run to the dry sump canister.
I haven't investigated the wet sump nor LT4 systems.
I used this spring clamp assortment for the coolant line:
It's routed under the air filter box, Tee'd so one goes to the thermostat housing and the other to the overflow tank.
For the evap hose I used a right angle 1/4" to 1/4" Dorman P/N 47092 (found it at Oriley's)
Then a 1/4" to 1/4" barbed hose connector to 1/4" fuel line. Then a 1/4" to 3/8" barbed hose fitting to a short length of the silicon hose then to this right angle quick connect:
to connect to the hard line going down to the canister.
The right angle fitting that connects to the evap canister hard line:
All of the hoses were cut to length, I can try to get measurements but the key is to route them away from moving parts (alternator) and hot manifolds or headers, and don't kink them by making hard bends. There's plenty of room to route them safely.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 676
Likes: 196
From: Chester SC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16, '21,'24
I finally had a chance to begin the line relocation kit yesterday. And I also had a tough time pushing the stainless transmission line towards the driver side. It was scary because I couldn’t see anything. My other struggle was removing the electrical connection to the coil (passenger side, back). I still have the PCV lines to work on, then I’ll upload a picture.
