2015 Z06 no start
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2015 Z06 no start
I'm having a similar situation to a previous poster with different details. This car is a rebuild. Just when we think it's ready for a final inspection at the dealer this happens. I'm getting a "remote not detected" and although the batt charges to 12+V the voltage drops pretty quickly to ~9V in a short period of time. I changed the 2032 batt in the remote. It was down to 2.6V so I put in a fresh 3.0V batt. Still no start. It kind of sounds like the fuel pump starts running but that's it. I've removed the batt a couple of times and put it on a charger and I think at this point it would probably fail a load test. New car battery and reprogram the remote? Thoughts? How/ why did this happen now?
There are still some open connectors that we have to run down and can't figure out what they went to. The car started before I had the other stuff connected so I don't think they're affected. Simply might be accessories that are still undetermined. Hoping the dealer can answer those questions.
There are still some open connectors that we have to run down and can't figure out what they went to. The car started before I had the other stuff connected so I don't think they're affected. Simply might be accessories that are still undetermined. Hoping the dealer can answer those questions.
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
I'm having a similar situation to a previous poster with different details. This car is a rebuild. Just when we think it's ready for a final inspection at the dealer this happens. I'm getting a "remote not detected" and although the batt charges to 12+V the voltage drops pretty quickly to ~9V in a short period of time. I changed the 2032 batt in the remote. It was down to 2.6V so I put in a fresh 3.0V batt. Still no start. It kind of sounds like the fuel pump starts running but that's it. I've removed the batt a couple of times and put it on a charger and I think at this point it would probably fail a load test. New car battery and reprogram the remote? Thoughts? How/ why did this happen now?
There are still some open connectors that we have to run down and can't figure out what they went to. The car started before I had the other stuff connected so I don't think they're affected. Simply might be accessories that are still undetermined. Hoping the dealer can answer those questions.
There are still some open connectors that we have to run down and can't figure out what they went to. The car started before I had the other stuff connected so I don't think they're affected. Simply might be accessories that are still undetermined. Hoping the dealer can answer those questions.
If the battery drops from 12.66 volts (fully charged) if it's a flooded lead acid to 9 volts quickly you may have a parasitic drain...first get the battery load tested...the more a battery discharges it's life is shortened...then get your car out of that dealership and have it properly diagnosed at an auto electric shop if there is one in your vicinity wherever that is.
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If the battery drops from 12.66 volts (fully charged) if it's a flooded lead acid to 9 volts quickly you may have a parasitic drain...first get the battery load tested...the more a battery discharges it's life is shortened...then get your car out of that dealership and have it properly diagnosed at an auto electric shop if there is one in your vicinity wherever that is.
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Unfortunately I don't have that option. I'm the mech and not the owner. The decision is made to get it to the dealer. I've been correcting deficiencies and sloppy work previously completed. It's all stuff "behind the curtain; or bodywork...". I have electrical experience and a kit full of GM Metripak connectors. Doesn't help if I can't find out what the cut wires came from and my questions don't get answered. These cars are quite a departure from my 30 year old Chevy trucks and 4th gen Firebird Formula.
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If you're the Tech that is working on it and it's a "no start" start with a fully charged known good battery and go from there...I don't know how fast the battery discharges but put a battery charger on it and see what happens when starting...just follow your diagnostic process !!
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
With a scan tool can you communicate with the car ??…if not may be a communication issue especially when there is a no start involved…don’t have wiring for your model year so do you know how to check the bus with an ohm meter and a voltmeter ??
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If you put the FOB in the steering wheel slot, you don't NEED a battery in the FOB. If the slot is good, the car should start.
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I've kept my Fluke DVM handy monitoring the battery. It started out at 13V and hasn't dropped below 12.3V. I'm happy to see 12.3V on my vehicles. Have you heard of a logic lock? The dealer guy I'm talking to said he will check with one of their techs.
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My scan tool is a HF that was fine for 2K but I think this car is more advanced than the tool is capable of.
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This is what i was dealing with. Before i started working on this car someone had back-pierced the yellow solenoid wire and twisted a lead around it. Why? SMH I dropped the starter down about two inches and was able to reconnect that lead. I had the car on jackstands about a foot high so it was tight. Once i made that connection the car started right up. The car is now at the dealer for some "fine-tuning" and not necessarily meaning the engine.