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I am thinking about doing the VLOM mod. Has anybody done this and had good luck? I have been using the AFM disabler but now thinking about just reprograming the PCM. The simple PCM reprogram is only about $60. I also thought if I did the VLOM mod, I wouldn't have to reprogram the PCM, just keep using the disabler.
I found out that if I do the VLOM mod they recommend to have the PCM reprogramed also. If you don't reprogram the PCM, if you remove the disabler, the computer will throw codes.
They don't modify the valley plate, they plug the oil galleries in the block. Regardless of how you turn AFM off, you still have the lifters installed which is what fails. Until you decide to swap cams, I'd leave well enough alone.
If you swap cams you can also get rid of the cam phaser and move to a modified LS timing gear. Saves several pounds of rotating mass and eliminates the need to use a lockout.
If you want bling, there are multiple aftermarket solutions. For my 416 build, my valley cover is from Harding Performance and the Front Cover along with the modified LS3 cam gear is from LME
They don't modify the valley plate, they plug the oil galleries in the block. Regardless of how you turn AFM off, you still have the lifters installed which is what fails. Until you decide to swap cams, I'd leave well enough alone.
If you swap cams you can also get rid of the cam phaser and move to a modified LS timing gear. Saves several pounds of rotating mass and eliminates the need to use a lockout.
And at some point, "while I am there" becomes a bigger engine. Then the next thing fails, etc, etc. I think I've seen this movie before.
And at some point, "while I am there" becomes a bigger engine. Then the next thing fails, etc, etc. I think I've seen this movie before.
He's not showing you the VLOM on a Gen V engine. He's showing you the cover off the Gen IV. He does mention Gen V is similar but you'll have a 90* turn for the oil pressure sensor. If I'm going through the work to get to the VLOM, just pull the thing off and plug the passages. Then you never have to worry about the insert he shows being positioned wrong or being a bit undersized and rotating in the bore over time. I'm not aware of a single mid to high-end shop that uses his approach.
The plugs are available from BTR, Michigan Motorsports, etc for about $40. Regardless.....the likelihood of a failure is so small that I'd leave well-enough alone. There are literally millions of Gen V engines on the road and operating just fine. If 10,000 have failed. that's a very very small percentage. Use the Range device and/or just program it out.
He's not showing you the VLOM on a Gen V engine. He's showing you the cover off the Gen IV. He does mention Gen V is similar but you'll have a 90* turn for the oil pressure sensor. If I'm going through the work to get to the VLOM, just pull the thing off and plug the passages. Then you never have to worry about the insert he shows being positioned wrong or being a bit undersized and rotating in the bore over time. I'm not aware of a single mid to high-end shop that uses his approach.
The plugs are available from BTR, Michigan Motorsports, etc for about $40. Regardless.....the likelihood of a failure is so small that I'd leave well-enough alone. There are literally millions of Gen V engines on the road and operating just fine. If 10,000 have failed. that's a very very small percentage. Use the Range device and/or just program it out.
But you do you
I went through that one before on my C4. K&N air filter was the first mod. That became an intake system. Then I will stop at headers. Had Lingenfelter tune it. Well, of course the transmission breaks, rear end should really be regeared. Well, just do the cam but might as well do the heads. Oh, the engine is shot so lets do the 383 and so on and so forth. Wound up using bad heads so we wrecked the short block so another SB fixes it. In the end, I felt that since we spent so much, I have to run it to ground before I get something new. Got the C7 because the wife got tired of me screwing with the car so one Saturday, she had me get the title and go shopping.
Just finished the VLOM mod, it was harder than I thought it would be. It was a learning experience. The engine didn't blow up, whew.
My question: The intake has a felt pad on top of it and a thick rubber pad under it, has anybody removed these and are they just for engine noise or a different function?
Just finished the VLOM mod, it was harder than I thought it would be. It was a learning experience. The engine didn't blow up, whew.
My question: The intake has a felt pad on top of it and a thick rubber pad under it, has anybody removed these and are they just for engine noise or a different function?
They’re primarily for noise. Might block a very tiny amount of heat as well but on a street car it won’t matter
You’ll hear the clatter of the high pressure fuel pump if you remove it.
Thank you. I was worried they wouldn't go back in. The big thick rubber one was hard to remove. I had to tear the back part off, then it went together just fine.
The car drives just fine. Seems like the oil pressure is a bit higher, but this could me not remembering the old pressure. If anyone wants to do this mod, get ahold of me.
If anybody is going to remove their VLOM, I found a short cut. When removing the VLOM you have to remove both sides fuel rails. To do this, you have pull the large wire bundles on top of the fuel rails. To remove them, a trim removal works very well, if you want to save them. But it would be very easy to just cut them from the bundle and install new ones. I found replacements on Amazon. These would work very well and save lots of time. They would also come in handy for other projects.
VLOM mod
