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Ive read the sparse info. I know not to use a fork. Some say use a hammer. Others say that will break the aluminum. I try to reverse rig a pulley puller to compress the bolt out. No luck. I’ve been stuck on this for hours. Please help.
Try heat.... A propane torch isn't that hot, like a welding torch. Be careful not to melt plastic or rubber.
It might be easier to remove both A arms together.
Have you tried these? You should be able to rent them.
I have that exact kit. You will see I used the one to the far right inverted it and tried to use it to push onto the. Spindle. If I tried to use the one at the bottom, I’m fairly certain that I’m going to destroy the rubber boot
It came off using the tool on the far right. I inverted it as you can see in the photo and placed the bolt end that would normally be upright against the spindle. That with some dead hammer banging eventually popped it loose. Now I'm searching for torque specs for everything I took off.
Lucky you didn't screw up the threads on the ball joint. Always use a nut to push on. It protects the threads and it keeps the LCA from potentially firing downward when it pops free of the spindle.
I also always unbolt the shock from the LCA. One less thing to fight against and/or potentially damage.
Yet to fail when popping free ball joints....
A little heat
PB Blaster or other penetrating oil
Install the nut on the threads of the ball joint
Couple pops with a 5 pound hammer and/or the appropriate ball joint tool
I'm curious....why pop the LCA free? What's broke? ....or are you installing different bushings or monoballs?
For $25 you can get a 3-day subscription to the AC Delco Technical Delivery System https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions It has access to the Service Manual with all the specs
Last edited by 96GS#007; Oct 28, 2024 at 07:01 PM.
In my experience it is quite common for the combination of pressure and shock from a hammer will break BJs loose. I would have used a steel hammer but I am glad your deadblow did the trick so less marring of parts. BTW, based on my, and now your experience, how hard they are to get apart, I never worry about a TQ spec on a BJ. I put a wrench on the nut and pull it as tight as I can. Sometimes I will double up on the wrench or use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket but that's it.
I had the same problem a year ago. Constant pressure using the tool along with heating the joint with a propane torch did the trick. I did not use a hammer as I was scared it would damage the ball joint and these parts were on back order. I heated the aluminum on the knuckle while trying to avoid direct heat on the joint seals. It did take 10+ min of on and off heating.
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Help, Front LCA removal
