When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello dear C 7 friends,my name is Frank and I'm from Bonn. I have had a 2014 C7 Stingray with Z51 package since 2022. It was imported from the USA as accident damage. In 2021 the car was converted to the Z06 engine. This has been accompanied by CCRP, Heinz Schenk regarding the engine. Highly recommended to work with Heinz!
However, I have a power supply problem with the car. The following behavior can be seen:
When the car is started cold, the on-board voltage runs up to 15.2 volts, according to the instrument cluster.
The voltage measured at the alternator output and the battery is actually 15.5 volts.
When the car is then moved and warms up, the voltage slowly drops. At full operating temperature down to 12.1 volts. Measured directly at the alternator and battery 12.5V.
If I switch off the car in this state and start it again after 10 minutes, the starter motor finds it very difficult to turn the engine over. (It feels and sounds like a starter battery on its last legs).
It can also be observed that when the voltage is so low and I take the throttle away from 4000 rpm, the voltage briefly rises to 14.4 volts, only to drop again to 12.5 to 13.1 volts when I accelerate. This is exacerbated if the brake is also applied when the accelerator is released.
I have already fitted a new battery and have just fitted a brand new original Chevy battery.
This has not helped at all. I don't want to damage the battery or even the control units because of the high voltages/voltage fluctuations.
Perhaps one of you can make sense of this or has already had such problems?
I would be very happy if you could help me.
Best regards to all
Frank Wenn das Auto dann bewegt wird und warm wird geht die Spannung langsam zurück. Bei voller Betriebstemperatur auf bis zu 12,1 Volt. Gemessen direkt an der Lima und Batterie 12,5V. Wenn ich in diesem Zustand das Auto abstellen und nach 10 Minuten wieder starte, tut sich der Anlasser sehr schwer den Motor zu drehen. ( Fühlt und hört sich an wie eine Starterbatterie auf der letzten Rille). Es ist auch zu beobachten, dass wenn die Spannung so niedrig ist und ich aus 4000 Touren das Gas weg nehme, dass dann die Sg kurzfristig auf bis zu 14,4 Volt hoch läuft, um dann wieder bei Gas geben wieder abfällt auf 12,5 bis 13,1 Volt. Verstärken tut sich das Ganze noch, wenn man zum Gas wegnehmen zusätzlich die Bremse betätigt. Ich habe bereits eine neue Batterie eingebaut und jetzt gerade erst eine nagelneue original Chevy Lima. Das hat zu keiner Abhilfe geführt. Ich möchte mir ungerne die Batterie oder gar Steuergeräte schrotten wegen der hohen Spannungen/ Spannungsschwankungen. Vielleicht kann sich von Euch jemand einen Reim drauf machen oder hatte schon selbst derartige Probleme? Ich würde mich sehr freuen, wenn Ihr mir helfen könntet. Beste Grüße Frank noch, wenn man zum Gas wegnehmen zusätzlich die Bremse betätigt. Ich habe bereits eine neue Batterie eingebaut und jetzt gerade erst eine nagelneue original Chevy Lima. Das hat zu keiner Abhilfe geführt. Ich möchte mir ungerne die Batterie oder gar Steuergeräte schrotten wegen der hohen Spannungen/ Spannungsschwankungen. Vielleicht kann sich von Euch jemand einen Reim drauf machen oder hatte schon selbst derartige Probleme? Ich würde mich sehr freuen, wenn Ihr mir helfen könntet. Beste Grüße an alle Frank
some of the things i would look at is since the update to zo6 are all the grounds the same and tight is a zo6 alternator the same amps as original was the ecm/bcm reprogramed for voltage
some of the things i would look at is since the update to zo6 are all the grounds the same and tight is a zo6 alternator the same amps as original was the ecm/bcm reprogramed for voltage
Hey ball-z, thank you for these points! I will check them. What I can tell you for sure is that the alternator is the same for the Z06 as for the normal modell. I do not know a section where I could set or reprogram the voltage at the ecm/bcm.
Could be a bad alternator voltage regulator.
Unfortunately the regulator is built into the alternator and needs to be replaced as a complete unit.
Before I would just throw a new one have yours tested first for voltage and current.
Could be a bad alternator voltage regulator.
Unfortunately the regulator is built into the alternator and needs to be replaced as a complete unit.
Before I would just throw a new one have yours tested first for voltage and current.
Hey Tinkertech,
thanks for your quote! I just bought a brand new alternator at RockAuto in the US and the original Chevy one. I changed it and got the same result.
The voltage variation looks normal as it seems to fit how the charging system is supposed to work. I am attaching pages from the FSM describing the battery and charging system operation. I used a blue mark to highlight sections that might be applicable.
The problem may be somewhere besides the alternator or the battery. Here are the ground points located around the car.
The voltage variation looks normal as it seems to fit how the charging system is supposed to work. I am attaching pages from the FSM describing the battery and charging system operation. I used a blue mark to highlight sections that might be applicable.
The problem may be somewhere besides the alternator or the battery. Here are the ground points located around the car.
Hope this helps.
Bill
Hey Bill,
thank you sooo much! I am sure that will give me the maximum help I could ever get!
So I will go on search soon.
Frank
Power supply problem
