I've been talked into installing a cam, parts are on order, ducks are being lined up, palms getting sweaty My primary reason to dig in is to get rid of the DOD AFM stuff and since I'll be spinning bolts...

First huge question though: I see tons of guides installing a cam on a wet sump LT1 but absolutely nothing about a dry sump. Most specifically:
If I'm going to re-use the oil pump (yes), do I need to make sure it's aligned in the exact same position before I take it off like the wet sump pump? I can't find a single answer anywhere.

Stay tuned, I'm planning on doing this over the Christmas break (Merry Christmas to me!). I'll have pics, videos, and most likely more questions!

 

Here's what GM says....



Should be a cam swap "how to" by Fyreant that shows what he did. Wet or Dry sump, you need to make sure you align the pump properly.

Depending on how far you want to take things, replacing the front cover and using a modified LS3 timing gear saves rotating mass. LME sells them. For the oil galleries you can either plug them or use a different VLOM cover. Katech, Harding Performance, LME, etc all have their versions. Not cheap, but really nice parts.

 

It would be interesting to do a HP dyno test before and after. I thought the same thing when I did the DOD AFM delete, but I chickened out and just did the VLOM mod.

 

Thanks! Yeah, I've read and re-read Fyreant's write-up (absolutely wonderful detail in that!) but every single write-up and guide only showed the wet sump pump. Maybe it'll be obvious once I get in there as to why it needs to be in the exact same position but right now, it still seems a little weird. I've never run into that little detail before.
I'm just going to use the plugs that are supplied in the kit. I ordered everything from Michigan Motorsports. I did snag a C5R timing chain but I'll be reusing the stock covers.

 

Yeah, I'm not going to start the install for a couple of weeks so maybe I can get it on a dyno before then. Not terribly worried about the difference in numbers, it's all about getting rid of a potential failure point (I don't trust those AFM lifters at all! I think I've actually lost sleep over them) and adding a bit of power since I'm there. I'm going with the Texas Speed stage 2 cam.

 

Just a note...The only "real" C5R timing chain is from Katech. The others sold by Competition Cams, etc are different. The Katech website discusses the differences in their chain vs the others.

 

if your going to do a cam and dod/afm delete do it right the first time. cam single bolt, complete vvt delete, double springs, pushrods ,trunion kit , and most important use link bar lifters and ditch the plastic lifter trays which are a known failure point.
dont just go dot to dot thats only starting point. tdc and use a degree wheel to properly time the cam according to the cam card. if the numbers dont match you may need a adjustable crank gear. arp head bolts are what I have unless your going big boost studs really aren't needed. this can be done in the car but once the motor is out its much easier to torque and time the motor . vvt delete not just a plastic wedge that still allows up to 2* of movement. if your setting the timing properly you dont want it moving. lme vvt delete with the billet cover c5r timing chain and billet tensioner are the best in the business. none of these parts im suggesting are cheap but they get the best results for an already difficult job you dont want to do twice. measure each cylinder for new pushrods you would surprised how the # change on each cylinder.

fwiw I run a range device until the motor is built. I spent close to 2 yrs collecting parts from all the guys who bought new never installed them and then sold the car. I have saved thousands and continue to drive the car with the range and have had zero issues so far. looking for a katech oil pump and the tear down starts. thi9s isnt a ls motor that you can just toss a cam in and be done its much more involved and so is the cost. once its all completed you basically have a stupid strong ls motor in lt clothing!
if you haven't bought the cam yet look at the Brian Cooley stage 2. 38% fuel lobe vs a 32% fuel lobe on the tsp. if your doing it get the most fueling you can

 

I was also worried about the lifter deal on these LT1 engines. I used the disabler for about a year. Then I decided to go with the VLOM mod to protect the lifters. Not that hard and not that expensive.

 

...and then toss in a balancer too. Some of the parts for my 416

 

the only reason I didnt mention the anti dampener was the immense difficulty of doing it with the motor in the car AND the possibility of turning it off the keyway if not installed properly. I have this as well but recently saw where ati is offering a double key and pinned hub to eliminate any issues with the pulley turning off the keyway under hard load. waiting on a response from ati as the website doesn't match up with the z06 lt4 motor for the application. to date I have a 5 shelf 6 ft tall rack loaded to the hilt with parts I have collected. everything from the cam kit to port in section ,vvt delete , computers and in the process of installing the f/I stage 2 interchiller. replaced the oem wet side with an12 braided lines emp29 I/c pump ( which can flow as high as 30 gpm) expansion tank and modded the oem tank for an fittings to allow it to be used adding more fluid. current capacity is approximately 3 gals with expected cooling to be at 50* below ambient on a 90* day

and use ls3 crank seals front and rear and watch the direction. of fit. lt4 seals tend to fail and leak under boost

 

Yup, that's the one I got.

 

I appreciate all of the advice but I'm not looking to make this a full on race motor. I prefer to make my mortgage payments
Sure, I could replace all of the covers, ported heads, new intake, etc but my goal is to replace the potential failure point (lifters) and add the bump in HP while staying within the limits of reliability and my bank account.
Beauty has already suffered a spring failure, replaced all of them last year as well as new pushrods and rockers with upgraded trunnions. Yeah, I'll be replacing the springs with doubles as well as even better pushrods this go round.

I mean, if anyone wants to donate to the effort, be my guest! But I need to stay within my constraints. There are limits to everything.

 

We’re having more fun spending your money

One other thing….Katech sells Johnson lifters that are sized correctly for the lifter bores. LS7 and regular Johnson lifters will work and many have used them for many miles and they’re low risk on a weekend driver but they’re just a tiny bit undersized. Just something to be aware of.

 

I've found it's very easy to spend other people's money! LOL I also know there are diminishing returns, especially when dealing with cars!

So, when you are comparing the different sizes of the lifters, are we talking about .0001" differences? At that point, we're talking the difference between 5w-30 and 0w-30 oils. Yeah, this engine will see redline, but I'm not looking to push it to 7500RPM (7250 is plenty ). Like you said, "normal" replacement lifters will (should) suffice for weekend spirited driving.

 

.0002 so very tiny. Katech has a short write-up but the TLDR version is that they did it for oil flow control and pressure. https://katechengines.com/i-30497677...t-drop-in.html

You'll be fine with a street engine

 

you cant just toss in a cam and replace the lifters with non dod set. if it were only that easy! so start saving and look for parts guys bought new and never installed. takes time but worth it. link bar lifters are the best way to go. approx 700 a set

 

And that's why I'm using a DOD delete kit and new cam.

 

that kit has no springs or trunion kit. will need those. same thing for the vvt delete. your kit has no vvt delete or cam phaser lockout at a minimum. the parts that I and others have listed are yes race car parts but also parts to replace the weak links in the lt1/4. do it all once or you will hate doing again later. you can buy a 7$ bearing and bust it open and use the bearings inside to plug the dod holes. no need for 40$ pieces. also will need a tsp or harding or lme valley pan.

 

I think this covers that (as well as the title of the thread and the mention of what's already been done as in trunion upgrades):

 

Yes, buy the alignment tools and use them on a dry sump.