So, as some of you have seen, I'm installing a TSP Stage 2 Cam and DOD delete. Moving right along! But, I am looking for a little guidance on initial base tune for startup/break-in.
I'm going to have Beauty dyno tuned after the cam install but before then, what adjustments should I look at in my tune for the interim? Will it start and run well enough to at least let the computer start figuring things out or should I help it along?

I'm not a stranger to tuning but I'm also not looking to re-invent the wheel, I'm sure many others have more experience tuning the Gen V LT's...

and yes, I've looked over HP Tuners forum. Their 'help' is all over the board. I can't find any consistent direction from them.

 

1) Make sure you have a copy of the stock tune and store them away
2) Turn off the AFM and DOD diagnostics

You really only changed the airflow and duration since you didn't go crazy and add an intake, throttle body, remove cats, etc. If it's an auto you'll likely need to adjust the idle rpm a bit higher. There are multiple tables to do that in and you need to make sure the tables agree.

The engine won't run great but it should run and you can log some data at idle. I wouldn't go cruising around but it should be driveable.

 

I'm not at home so I don't have anything in front of me.

If the car doesn't want to start unless you press on the gas pedal you'll need to adjust the base airflow table. It's under "Engine/Airflow/General/Cranking Airflow and Torque" Probably have to up that ~10% or so as a gross adjustment. Like most things when tuning, don't make radical changes unless you know exactly what you're doing.

Ultimately your VVE and Virtual Torque tables will need some work but your Tuner can take care of those as well as spark, idle adaptives, etc.

 

Thank you for that tidbit! I am fighting that exact issue, she won't start and stay running unless I feather the throttle. I'll tweak the setting and give it a try.
Also, sometimes, if I give it a quick throttle blip, it'll rev up and idle right back down with no issues. Other times, it falls right through the idle and wants to stall. I'm only concerned because I plan on driving her to the tuner next week and I don't want to fight it in traffic. Any insight there?

 

With the idle, you're likely battling a few things....the Virtual VE and Virtual Torque tables are off. You don't have a huge cam and a bunch of other mods so you should be able to squeak by with the stock tables. Basically you have a cam with more duration so it makes less torque as you approach idle rpms. As the rpm drops, the PCM thinks it's commanding "x" amount of torque but it's getting something less. The other area are the adaptives. ("Engine/Idle/RPM) and then you'll see "Adaptive Idle" and what you want to look at is Speed Control. The "Immediate" table is controlling changes via timing. The "Predictive" table is changing throttle.

I have tons of changes plus a super light flywheel/clutch so keep that in mind. In my case, using the Adaptives from the ZR1 ended up working. You shouldn't need to make that large of a change The pics below show the what my Immediate and Predictive tables look like. Note that mine (and the stock tables) are sorta "U" shaped. Starts at "0" in the middle and then gradually ramps up going left or right. Also note the left side values are negative. In your case, what you might do is increase the left side of the Immediate (ie a bigger negative number) and see if that helps. If it doesn't, try doing the same on the Predictive side. Take it slowly or you can end up with a bad case of throttle hang....you'll let off the gas but the engine won't slow down! I think that'll get you there so you can get to the tuner. Make the change, flash it, and then run it a few times. The PCM has to learn so it's not something that just magically works idling in the driveway.

Did you bump your idle up as well? If you did, there are multiple tables so make sure those are aligned or the PCM fights itself.

 

I was over in the HP Tuners forum and there was a thread that was talking idle. I forgot that's changed as well on mine. Here's the post: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post814069

In HP Tuners look for the "Idle" tab then "Torque" then look for Idle Torque Limit and below that is "External Load"

As you can see, there's a lot going on with Gen Vs.

 

Gen V is not easy, especially for those who don't have any experience. There are multiple places that need to be addressed to get the idle dialed in for Gen V stuff. It is more than just the Idle tabs. But as recommended in here you can fudge some tables to trick the ECU into figuring out how to keep the car running. However, unless you dial ALL of the car in properly, you will have surging and stalling and sometimes run away throttle.

 

Listen to this man!!! He has my TSP Stage 2 cam running extremely smooth with absolutely ZERO issues.

 

While Jason didn't mention it, I will....He does remote tuning in addition to dyno tuning.

If in doubt about crutching the tune enough to get the car to the shop, contact Jason and see what he might be able to do....

 

I have actually gotten her running pretty smoothly, not perfect yet but she doesn't stall, doesn't hunt and has a much smoother idle down curve. What's really strange to me is my zero pedal torque wants to be more negative than zero. If I bring it closer to zero, my throttle tip in response goes to hell.
I will have it dyno tuned as soon as someone gets back to me. I have word out to two places and it's been radio silence so far. I know, new year and all. I'm not the most patient person

 

That means your torque and airmass models are incorrect. You will have issues if your tuner doesn't correct this. Make sure your dyno tuner doesn't just tune WOT and send you on your way.

Funny about the radio silence. I actually worked through the holidays and picked up a few clients that got frustrated their tuner wasn't getting back to them or the wait time was 4-6 weeks. One guy had the dyno time already scheduled so I jumped in and remote dyno tuned it in an afternoon. All of them were ecstatic they got to enjoy their new mods during Christmas/New Year holidays.

 

I'm scheduled to drop Beauty off on Wednesday with LSXperts here locally. They asked all the right questions and will have her for a few days to make sure cold start is dialed in, drivability is spot on, and of course, WOT is tuned.
I've learned a LOT about the Gen V and I dialed things in a little tighter but I (obviously) don't have a dyno and there is a LOT to be said for experience. I considered a remote tune but I don't have a great area to go WOT multiple times without raising the ire of the local constable
If you want, I can send you the tune they dial in and you can critique it (just don't disseminate it). Doesn't hurt to have a second opinion

 

Don't worry, I'm not trying to persuade you. Just offering advice on what to expect from a legitimate tuner. It sounds like you've done your homework and found a solution that meets your needs. I'm not the kind of person that claims I'm better than everyone else and that you should use me if you want it done right. There are plenty of great tuners out there. I get plenty of work by word of mouth and certain shops I work for, which is why I don't advertise anywhere. I'm not missing a meal by being passed over for someone that fits your needs better. I hope my advice didn't come across that way.

 

Not to worry, I appreciate your input and advice! I took it as exactly that, guidance from someone experienced. If I didn't have a resource literally 2 miles from me, I might just have enlisted your services.

BTW, I have the weirdest issue: When I upload to the ECM, I have to disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the 'puter or it just simply won't start. Everything is perfect after that though. Ever heard of that before?
I even went so far as to write both the ECM and BCM fully, no change. I don't recall it doing that the first time I threw a tune in 'er.

 

not sure if its related but anytime I disconnect the battery the first time I try to start the car it just clicks and stops. reset the key car fires up.

 

It's normal to not start/turnover on the first start button press after a flash. However, you shouldn't have to disconnect the battery. You just press the start button again to turn the car off. Then it should start on the second attempt.\\

For the Corvettes I got into the habit of tuning the ignition off after a flash. Then holding the start button without my foot on the brake or clutch to put it into KOEO mode. Then turn it off again. Wait 5 seconds and then start the car like normal.

 

I didn't try KOEO mode, it does the click no-start, then cranks once and then does nothing until I reset with the battery. After that, it's hunky-dory. Just an oddity, I've gotten in the habit of just resetting.

Anywho, I'm not going to play with it anymore, I'll leave it to the experienced pros and see what they can do. Hopefully I'll be able to get some video of 'er on the dyno.

 

Usually all you have to do after the click no start is turn the car off by pressing the start button. Then wait 3 seconds and press start again and the car will start. I've never had one that worked any differently than this. Sounds odd for sure.

 

As promised, dyno report! I couldn't be happier... 509HP and 488tq!

 

Sweet!!! Waiting patiently for video w/ sound......lol.