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I need to replace the shocks on my C7 Corvette - - -
Why do you need to replace them? I ask because a common scam is to claim mag shocks are leaking and must be replaced at great expense, when in fact they just have normal seepage.
Why do you need to replace them? I ask because a common scam is to claim mag shocks are leaking and must be replaced at great expense, when in fact they just have normal seepage.
Why do you need to replace them? I ask because a common scam is to claim mag shocks are leaking and must be replaced at great expense, when in fact they just have normal seepage.
I'm not sure I would call it a scam. In my book, to call it a scam means you are sure that it is fine but you are calling it bad. Before I had a C7 and came across the titbit of info, I would have said it was bad and it has to go. Do understand that the car is a passion for you and you take pains to know as much as possible. To me, it is another POS on 4 wheels that I have to fix. I was brought up with leaking shocks as bad. This is a new twist where some leak is acceptable. If we are being honest, I would think many of us would be at least leery first time we saw it. You met me at a Starbucks and saw the dampness, think you would bother to look at the TSB? I have no doubt that mechanics would not be pouring over the TSBs and doing pop quizzes on each other as part of their break room games.
My RR shock was leaking, I replaced the rear two with OEM from rockauto. Cost was $788 shipped, best price I could find. Probably the easiest replacement I've ever done on any car. No springs to compress or worry about like on mac strut suspensions. The hardest part is the clip for the magride shock as you don't want to break anything on the chassis side's harness. Took maybe an hour or so for me to do both sides with a jack & stands. Car rides noticeably smoother.
Judging by the dirt on the surrounding areas and the slight dampness of the shocks, the shocks look fine. I'd clean things up and see how they look after driving a couple hundred miles. A coarse test is to switch driving modes and if you can still feel a difference....particularly between "Tour" and "Track"....that's another indicator they're fine.
Judging by the dirt on the surrounding areas and the slight dampness of the shocks, the shocks look fine. I'd clean things up and see how they look after driving a couple hundred miles. A coarse test is to switch driving modes and if you can still feel a difference....particularly between "Tour" and "Track"....that's another indicator they're fine.
IDK how rare the mag shocks are but if I could, I would like to do an apples to apples comparison. I mean, a $50 part, WGAS but even on RA, they are $800, I would really want to be sure.
Also, I'm a little bit curious. Why do you say the slight dampness is OK? Because the TSB which could be self serving said so? I honestly am not sure I would be placated by it. Imagine that if I bought the car new and on delivery date, there was a bit of mud splash or dust. No problem. Run it through the car wash when I get home and life is good. OTOH, if I saw the damp shock, I am not sure that I could be placated by the TSB into buying it. So let me ask you this. Say you went to a dealership and negotiated on a car. Took it for a test drive and happen to see dampness. Would you be comfortable buying that car? Sorry but TSB or no, I can't say I would feel comfortable with such a situation especially if the warranty isn't for a new car (say 3 or more years) or it was "AS IS".
IDK how rare the mag shocks are but if I could, I would like to do an apples to apples comparison. I mean, a $50 part, WGAS but even on RA, they are $800, I would really want to be sure.
Also, I'm a little bit curious. Why do you say the slight dampness is OK? Because the TSB which could be self serving said so? I honestly am not sure I would be placated by it. Imagine that if I bought the car new and on delivery date, there was a bit of mud splash or dust. No problem. Run it through the car wash when I get home and life is good. OTOH, if I saw the damp shock, I am not sure that I could be placated by the TSB into buying it. So let me ask you this. Say you went to a dealership and negotiated on a car. Took it for a test drive and happen to see dampness. Would you be comfortable buying that car? Sorry but TSB or no, I can't say I would feel comfortable with such a situation especially if the warranty isn't for a new car (say 3 or more years) or it was "AS IS".
Because what's inside of them is like a grey/silver colored paste. It's very thick / high viscosity. When the shocks go bad it looks like silver grease all over them, about the consistency of axle grease. Plenty of images of this online. Has zero to do with the TSB. I'm sure many people and many shops have replaced damp MRC shocks which operate just fine.
So if I went to a car dealership and I saw something like what the OP has it wouldn't bother me to buy the car.
I don't see the point in spending $3k to replace a set of shocks that are fine, which can be tested by simply twisting a **** on the center console and determining if there's a difference in the ride.
Edit: Below I swiped someone's image but there are many more in cyberspace from C7 Corvettes, Gen 5 & 6 Camaros, and other GM vehicles. I recall a YouTube video where a guy cuts one open as well. Feel free to research.
OP, you could change just the one leaking for less $$$s, but I'd recommend changing both shocks at the end you're working on--it's just the right thing to do. My leaking shock didn't look at all like the above pics. My shock body was covered in a black oily film spilling onto the LCA. I wiped it clean, drove a bit and re-checked. Sure enough everything was covered again. Since the replacement and cleaning, the shock/LCA have been spotless. Before replacement I could still feel a change in damping between modes but body control was poor and bouncy. After replacement, the ride was night and day different. FYI, no dummy lights were on so I wouldn't judge based on that either.
Judging by the dirt on the surrounding areas and the slight dampness of the shocks, the shocks look fine. I'd clean things up and see how they look after driving a couple hundred miles. A coarse test is to switch driving modes and if you can still feel a difference....particularly between "Tour" and "Track"....that's another indicator they're fine.
Originally Posted by itch808
OP, you could change just the one leaking for less $$$s, but I'd recommend changing both shocks at the end you're working on--it's just the right thing to do. My leaking shock didn't look at all like the above pics. My shock body was covered in a black oily film spilling onto the LCA. I wiped it clean, drove a bit and re-checked. Sure enough everything was covered again. Since the replacement and cleaning, the shock/LCA have been spotless. Before replacement I could still feel a change in damping between modes but body control was poor and bouncy. After replacement, the ride was night and day different. FYI, no dummy lights were on so I wouldn't judge based on that either.
Because what's inside of them is like a grey/silver colored paste. It's very thick / high viscosity. When the shocks go bad it looks like silver grease all over them, about the consistency of axle grease. Plenty of images of this online. Has zero to do with the TSB. I'm sure many people and many shops have replaced damp MRC shocks which operate just fine.
So if I went to a car dealership and I saw something like what the OP has it wouldn't bother me to buy the car.
I don't see the point in spending $3k to replace a set of shocks that are fine, which can be tested by simply twisting a **** on the center console and determining if there's a difference in the ride.
Edit: Below I swiped someone's image but there are many more in cyberspace from C7 Corvettes, Gen 5 & 6 Camaros, and other GM vehicles. I recall a YouTube video where a guy cuts one open as well. Feel free to research.
That part of the paste I get. What makes me uncomfortable is that some fluid, whatever it is, escaped from inside the shock past the seals.
That part of the paste I get. What makes me uncomfortable is that some fluid, whatever it is, escaped from inside the shock past the seals.
Not sure what the debate is. Don't like it, don't buy it
Philosophy aside, people shouldn't swap parts without some level of diagnostics, at least in my opinion. Particularly if it's as simple as wiping down the parts, driving the car a bit, and then re-checking. However, if someone wants to shoot a $3k parts cannon at something that may or may not be broke, that's their right to do so. Has no effect on me.