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Afm/dod question

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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 11:10 PM
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Default Afm/dod question

2014 z51 7 speed. I’m getting ready to do a cam, mainly because I want to get rid of the Afm/dod lifters. And if I have to pull it apart, it’s getting a decently hot cam. From all of the information I’ve found all you need to do is plug or rivet the oil galleys in the valley of the block, then change lifters and push rods. Sound simple enough. I was looking at Texas Speed’s kit and it includes head and exhaust gaskets. Would any of you have a general walkthrough on this with torque specs?

Last edited by Mburrrr; Feb 12, 2025 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 11:45 AM
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I used the Michigan Motorsports kit that included the Texas Speed Stage II cam. It came with everything needed except the upgraded rocker trunnions but I had already replaced them.
https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...l-tsp-cam-kit/

Torque specs:
https://help.summitracing.com/knowle...SR-05492/en-us

There are plenty of youtube videos on how to lock the cam phaser. It's a little tricky but if you take your time, you'll be fine.
Also, it's recommended to replace the cam bolt, you'll need to order that separately. Summit Racing has the BTR bolt for like $40.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BTC-BTR-81018
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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 01:38 PM
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going to need springs as well. buy this bearing break it open and use the tapered bearings as slugs they tap right in about 9$
ca phs=aser lock out still allows for 1-2* of movement. no the best thing. ditch it all and do a vvt delete single bolt cam c5r timing chain and lme cover
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 10:25 AM
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In the below pic of mine, the holes in the lifter valley are plugged. In my case they were tapped and the plugs screwed in. For an engine in the car, just buy plugs that can be tapped in.




Gen V cam swaps are not quite as straight-forward as the old Gen 1/2 SBCs. For instance, you have to pull the heads to get to the lifters. Soooo....read up

This pic of mine shows how far you have to go for the cam swap....almost. Keep in mind that even in this case, the front cover still needs to come off, the balancer needs to come off, etc so so there is still be work to be done. It's easy to see why insidious disease of "while I'm in there...." is costly on a Gen V. While I'm in there I may as well do headers....and ported heads....and an intake....and....an ATI balancer and ..... Pray for strength to resist this disease!



Edit: And with a big cam you'll need really good tuning. Find a good Gen V Tuner. They are not like tuning older engines.
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Old Feb 22, 2025 | 01:03 PM
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[QUOTE... mainly because I want to get rid of the Afm/dod lifters...[/QUOTE]

IF this is the main reason, and the engine is running fine now, this seems a little extreme.
I just bought a afm disabler that plugs into the obd port. They run $40-$250. Up 100k sold for all GM engines. They seem to work fine.
And, doesn't the car computer override the v4/v8 switching in the manual trans cars anyway?
But, if you mainly want a hotter cam, go ahead.
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