Afm/dod question
Last edited by Mburrrr; Feb 12, 2025 at 11:59 PM.





https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...l-tsp-cam-kit/
Torque specs:
https://help.summitracing.com/knowle...SR-05492/en-us
There are plenty of youtube videos on how to lock the cam phaser. It's a little tricky but if you take your time, you'll be fine.
Also, it's recommended to replace the cam bolt, you'll need to order that separately. Summit Racing has the BTR bolt for like $40.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BTC-BTR-81018
ca phs=aser lock out still allows for 1-2* of movement. no the best thing. ditch it all and do a vvt delete single bolt cam c5r timing chain and lme cover
Gen V cam swaps are not quite as straight-forward as the old Gen 1/2 SBCs. For instance, you have to pull the heads to get to the lifters. Soooo....read up

This pic of mine shows how far you have to go for the cam swap....almost. Keep in mind that even in this case, the front cover still needs to come off, the balancer needs to come off, etc so so there is still be work to be done. It's easy to see why insidious disease of "while I'm in there...." is costly on a Gen V. While I'm in there I may as well do headers....and ported heads....and an intake....and....an ATI balancer and .....
Pray for strength to resist this disease!
Edit: And with a big cam you'll need really good tuning. Find a good Gen V Tuner. They are not like tuning older engines.
IF this is the main reason, and the engine is running fine now, this seems a little extreme.
I just bought a afm disabler that plugs into the obd port. They run $40-$250. Up 100k sold for all GM engines. They seem to work fine.
And, doesn't the car computer override the v4/v8 switching in the manual trans cars anyway?
But, if you mainly want a hotter cam, go ahead.









