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I am thinking of doing a tire rotation. I have a jack, and jack stands. I am thinking I will need a torque wrench and a breaker bar and a (deep ? ) socket.
The last time I tried to help someone with a flat we could not get the lugs loose with the small wrench provided. Any suggestions on which torque wrench ? It will not be used much, just for sparkplugs etc.
Thanks-
I am thinking of doing a tire rotation. I have a jack, and jack stands. I am thinking I will need a torque wrench and a breaker bar and a (deep ? ) socket.
The last time I tried to help someone with a flat we could not get the lugs loose with the small wrench provided. Any suggestions on which torque wrench ? It will not be used much, just for sparkplugs etc.
Thanks-
For manual wrenching on lug nuts, nothing beats a long-handle flex-head 1/2" ratchet. Fits in tight spots and saves your back. A stubby extension or a deep socket 19mm keeps your knuckles clear of the bodywork.
There is no one-size-fits-all torque wrench. Lug nuts are 100 lb-ft. Spark plugs are 11 lb-ft. That's almost an order of magnitude. You need two different wrenches. You don't want to be operating at the extreme edge of the wrench's range, and you don't want a 2-foot handle for spark plugs.
CDI and Precision Instruments are good torque wrench brands.
For manual wrenching on lug nuts, nothing beats a long-handle flex-head 1/2" ratchet. Fits in tight spots and saves your back. A stubby extension or a deep socket 19mm keeps your knuckles clear of the bodywork.
There is no one-size-fits-all torque wrench. Lug nuts are 100 lb-ft. Spark plugs are 11 lb-ft. That's almost an order of magnitude. You need two different wrenches. You don't want to be operating at the extreme edge of the wrench's range, and you don't want a 2-foot handle for spark plugs.
CDI and Precision Instruments are good torque wrench brands.
I knew the tires were 100ft lb, I did not look into the spark plug range or think about that. Growing up I never used one. Things are different now.-Thanks
I am thinking of doing a tire rotation. I have a jack, and jack stands. I am thinking I will need a torque wrench and a breaker bar and a (deep ? ) socket.
The last time I tried to help someone with a flat we could not get the lugs loose with the small wrench provided. Any suggestions on which torque wrench ? It will not be used much, just for sparkplugs etc.
Thanks-
Go to a parts house and rent one of their torque wrenches. Too many people don't use them so it isn't going to be a high use item. I gave away a bunch of tools I bought for the C4 that became a bunch of "One Off" items that I didn't use anymore. They just sat on the shelf gathering dust.
Car Care is mainly detailing, each year may have a specific way to remove wheel. My Z tires are specific to each location, cannot rotate. Personally, I use gojacks while car supported on quickjack.. then I have 3 stainless 15" long studs I machined to slide wheel off without hitting carbon rotors. You can get a cheaper set of anodized lug nut sockets at Harbor Freight that have nylon around outside. I would not use an impact unless just to get it on or off quicker to save time, always manually torque and break free with breaker bar. Do not use anti-seize on threads, f's up torque. CDI are decent I have one of these. Accurate
always manually torque and break free with breaker bar.
Do not use anti-seize on threads, f's up torque.
Why is that?
I do that to prevent it seizing up. Yes, with the anti-seize, it is now exerting more clamping force but you can compensate for the increase by a 25% reduction. Instead of 100 ft/lbs, I set torque to 75 ft/lbs which takes care of the wet torque vs dry torque.
So easy to over torque and stretch a wheel stud, I myself would not be comfortable with calculating the reduction. When swapping tires when tracking I need specs to be specs I used to use ant seize years ago, but stopped that practice because of the problems it may incur. It really messed up some crappier trucks back in the day.. learned I stretched the wheel studs and broke a few.
So easy to over torque and stretch a wheel stud, I myself would not be comfortable with calculating the reduction. When swapping tires when tracking I need specs to be specs I used to use ant seize years ago, but stopped that practice because of the problems it may incur. It really messed up some crappier trucks back in the day.. learned I stretched the wheel studs and broke a few.
According to THIS, if you use oil, it is about 35-45% reduction.
Go to a parts house and rent one of their torque wrenches. Too many people don't use them so it isn't going to be a high use item. I gave away a bunch of tools I bought for the C4 that became a bunch of "One Off" items that I didn't use anymore. They just sat on the shelf gathering dust.
Harbor Freight is always a good source for decently priced tools.
Low price, yes. Decent quality, not so good, IMO. If you want to buy and can get enough use out of it I'd go digital and "Buy once, cry once" or rent it for a "One off".
Harbor Freight 1/2" ICON torque wrench has been tested to be as good as a $700 Snap On torque wrench. I have owned the Icon for about 5 years and it is great.
Also - just my opinion, but rotating tires on a Corvette is pretty much a complete waste of time. Because you cannot swap front to rear, all the advantages of rotating tires are lost. Swapping left to right does next to nothing.
Also my opinion, lubing stud threads or using anti-seize is the way to go. I have been using white lithium grease on studs for 40 years. Never broke a stud again. And I go ahead and torque to the standard spec. There is plenty of safety margin built into the studs so you are not going to stretch or break them just because they are lubed.