opinions wanted
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,844
Likes: 1,302
From: nashville TN
opinions wanted
ok so getting ready to yank the motor for a internal build
parts as follows,
btr stage 2 cam
johnson link bar lifters
btr .660 springs
che trunnion kit
lme vvt delete
dod delete
ati lower damper
katech dry sump oil pump
billet valley tray
at this point with 28k miles on the motor thoughts on replacing all the crank and rod bearings? oil pan has to come off anyway so im literally right there. or leave the bottom end alone its done from the factory low miles and has zero issues
parts as follows,
btr stage 2 cam
johnson link bar lifters
btr .660 springs
che trunnion kit
lme vvt delete
dod delete
ati lower damper
katech dry sump oil pump
billet valley tray
at this point with 28k miles on the motor thoughts on replacing all the crank and rod bearings? oil pan has to come off anyway so im literally right there. or leave the bottom end alone its done from the factory low miles and has zero issues
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,844
Likes: 1,302
From: nashville TN
im aware of the stock rotating assembly capabilities. what im looking for are opinions on whether I should pull it all apart for new bearings at 28k miles or just leave it alone and concentrate on the top end of the motor
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 79
Likes: 81
From: The Bay, CA
the reason is even with a lockout you can still see 1-2* of cam movement. if im going thru the trouble to degree the cam to the cam manufacturer cam specs allowing it to move defeats the purpose. this can also create extended crank times as the cam moves. some btr cams are designed to run vvt but im going to run a c5r chain ls single bolt sprocket and vvt delete billet cover. the cam I have isnt designed for a vvt setup. this eliminates any chance of cam movement.
im aware of the stock rotating assembly capabilities. what im looking for are opinions on whether I should pull it all apart for new bearings at 28k miles or just leave it alone and concentrate on the top end of the motor
im aware of the stock rotating assembly capabilities. what im looking for are opinions on whether I should pull it all apart for new bearings at 28k miles or just leave it alone and concentrate on the top end of the motor
Also, regarding your bearings, I am a big fan of "while I'm in there" replacing wear items, especially if there's an upgrade available.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,844
Likes: 1,302
From: nashville TN
I see. I guess I am just not familiar with the "whys" of people deleting VVT entirely as opposed to keeping it with a limiter installed. What are the cons of running with VVT vs not?
Also, regarding your bearings, I am a big fan of "while I'm in there" replacing wear items, especially if there's an upgrade available.
Also, regarding your bearings, I am a big fan of "while I'm in there" replacing wear items, especially if there's an upgrade available.
"while your i9n there" can be a loaded question. replace the rods with carrells? new pistons ? stroke it to a 416 ? the slope can get slippery very quickly. learned that on a 45k$ flat six pcar motor build
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 79
Likes: 81
From: The Bay, CA
as I said extended start issues and not being able to properly degree the cam. as for bearings not looking to upgrade simply install new bearings vs 28k mileage bearings already in the car. if it was a 50-75k mile motor it wouldn't even be a question the bottom end would come out. with 28k im undecided and looking for others opinions.
"while your i9n there" can be a loaded question. replace the rods with carrells? new pistons ? stroke it to a 416 ? the slope can get slippery very quickly. learned that on a 45k$ flat six pcar motor build
"while your i9n there" can be a loaded question. replace the rods with carrells? new pistons ? stroke it to a 416 ? the slope can get slippery very quickly. learned that on a 45k$ flat six pcar motor build
I agree that it is a slippery slope but if you read my post more closely, I said replacing wear items while you're in there.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,844
Likes: 1,302
From: nashville TN
It sounds more like you already know what you want and are looking for someone to agree with you. 28,000 miles is a lot more than 0 miles and if 50,000 is your cutoff, are you going to pull the engine out again at that point just to replace bearings? At 75,000? The engine is out, bearings are cheap insurance, why not replace them?
I agree that it is a slippery slope but if you read my post more closely, I said replacing wear items while you're in there.
I agree that it is a slippery slope but if you read my post more closely, I said replacing wear items while you're in there.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 237
Likes: 1
From: Alpharetta GA
For what it's worth, none of us ZL1 guys are touching the bottom end until past 1000whp. I wouldn't worry with it personally. For my build I'm in the middle of, I had it down to the bare block with just crank, rods, pistons remaining untouched. Everthing else will be replaced. I kept the cam bearings, too.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,155
Likes: 154
From: The Arid Sunny Desert
For what it's worth, none of us ZL1 guys are touching the bottom end until past 1000whp. I wouldn't worry with it personally. For my build I'm in the middle of, I had it down to the bare block with just crank, rods, pistons remaining untouched. Everthing else will be replaced. I kept the cam bearings, too.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 237
Likes: 1
From: Alpharetta GA
If it fails, I'll pull it back out and go again.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,844
Likes: 1,302
From: nashville TN
No doubt. Katech says don't worry about it until over 1000whp, Vengeance says you're good until about 1000-1050whp. With that in mind, I'm "just" doing heads/cam/valvetrain, low side, Goliath, and +70's. Paired with existing 2650, intake, and exhaust, I’m expecting 1000+ on full pump E.
If it fails, I'll pull it back out and go again.
If it fails, I'll pull it back out and go again.
I hate working in this heat we have been car parts over a/c for yrs now.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 3,844
Likes: 1,302
From: nashville TN
so heres a loaded question!!! does anyone have a cheat sheet of torque values for the motor tear down? ie: head bolts crank pulley bolt cam cover bolts water pump bolts oil pump bolts etc? I really dont want to spend half my vacation looking for torque specs while I put the motor together. (yes im lazy!!). be happy to pay a fee for the cheat sheets
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 49
Likes: 15
From: Orange, CT
Just had my whole top end replaced over the winter and did not touch the bottom end. Shop did do all the tests to make sure engine was good enough for a full build. If I had to do it over again, I would have spent the extra 8-10k for a 416 short block or a complete LT4 factory engine. I've got all the top of the line parts head, cam, headers, and all the extras and sitting at 740WHP but there is more on the table but the bottom end is the weak link. Next will be a 416 short block and 1000 WHP. Really depends on your end goal hp, yes its a slippery slope and I'm down the rabbit hole and having fun. As my tuner says it's Entertainment! Good Luck!