On two occasions. The first time it was just stuck, no matter how many times I put the switch on and released it, it would not let go. Luckily, there was a mechanic shop two stores down so I drove the car dragging the wheels wit the E-brake engaged into the shop where they told me that the car needed an update to the E-brake module or something or other by using their scanner. charged me $200. All good, now two months later, the E-brake did the same thing, but this time I stopped, flipped the switch on and off once, and it released by itself. I came home and sprayed each caliper with WD-40, I don't know what I'm doing. Should I buy a brake cleaner and spray the calipers down and then use WD-40? My climate is desert hot an dry. Thank you in advance.

2014 Stingray Z51 M7

 

The disk brake calipers have NOTHING to do with the parking brake! Disk brakes are operated hydraulically. The hill hold feature does hold hydraulic pressure on the service (disk) brakes for a short time.

The parking brake operates brake shoes by a CABLE inside the brake drum at the center of the rear rotors...

Spray all you want, but not recommended.

Ron

 

When you're experiencing the parking brake being stuck on or not releasing, does it show a message on the dash to release the parking brake? Does it just come on randomly while driving or only after you've parked and then started the car to drive?

 

The two times that it happened it shows that it's been released but it's not. I just figured that I don't need to use that brake unless on a hill, correct? Just park in gear.

 

I very rarely set the parking brake. Take both of the rear disks off and see what's in there.

 

I'm lucky I can put air in the tires let alone remove the rear disks, lol

 

Well,,,,, don't go to the dealer. Any brake shop can lift your car, remove the rear disks and take a look. They will know what they are looking at.

 

Look at the system operation before jumping to conclusions that the problem is in the brake drums. Observe the bare cable running horizontally across the rear end above the stabilizer bar. It is tightened by the actuator which I remember is in front of the right rear wheel and accessed by removing the fender liner. Obviously the cable should move when the parking brake is set or released. Trace the cable and see it there is any obvious place where it has slipped out of a cable guide, pulley etc. or is obviously binding or sticking.

BLOCK the wheels before going under the car or use a mirror! Have someone actuate the parking brake while you observe the cable. You may just need a spot of lithium grease on any pivot points or guides.

If you see slack develop in the cable it may indicate a sticking brake shoe. If the springs in the parking brake assembly are working, there should never be obvious slack in the cable.

You should set the parking brake when... parking. Then release the clutch with tranny in gear. This will relive stress on the entire driveline.

Also - in an emergency, you can drag the parking brake to slow down by lifting the parking brake switch - I did try it once or twice and it does work. Not as satisfying as the mechanical brake lever on my C6. I have driven 2 cars home over the years using the parking brake after the service brakes failed - would have been in a world of hurt without the parking brake working.

Ron

 

Thanks Ron, I'll make sure to have somebody, who knows what they're looking at check it out.

 

Spraying WD40 on the brakes is a NO-NO big time.

You will contaminate your brake pads and they will then need to be replaced.

 

By the way. Not my quote. There are many, good, lubricants.

"AI"
WD-40 is not a good long-term lubricant, although it can provide temporary lubrication and is effective for cleaning and displacing water. It's primarily a water-displacing solvent, not a lubricant designed for continuous, heavy-duty use. While it can help free stuck parts and temporarily reduce friction, its lubricating properties are limited and it evaporates quickly, leaving behind a sticky residue.

 

What are the chances of the M7 popping out of gear when parked? Is there a better gear than another to park it in?

 

I learned that if your are headed downhill - park in reverse. If headed uphill - park in first. Cut the wheels so the front wheel will hit the curb within a short distance if all else fails and the car moves a bit.

This all used to be common knowledge - when manual transmissions were common I guess.

Ron

 

e-brake shoes (driver's side), just like old style drum brakes.






In the pic below, you can see a bracket at the bottom with the parking brake cable. There are two....one per side. They've been known to come loose and rather than releasing the parking brake, the cable just sort of rotates around with the loose bracket.


If the shoes are adjusted correctly...and with near certainty they are....and the brackets are tight, then that leaves the electric motor that pulls on the cable.

 

Thanks for the photos and description.

 

Did they replace the module or only clear the codes? Could have been a sporadic issue, check the cables. It's a rather simple system, switch tells module to engage or disengage. Module has a motor which pull or releases the cable. That's it. The single cable goes into a bracket on the rear sub frame that splits it in two and those go to each wheel which pull the "drum hat" parking brake (or release it).

 

They definitely only flashed the codes. It still works sporadically; I try not to use it. Will wait until my next brake job.

 

I always use the parking brake. Same with my other manual and auto transmission cars. Only exception is in my garage where I have a parking spot pad that has two bumps and I place my car between the bumps and it won't load up the drivetrain;

 

The parking brake is a unique assembly versus the standard hydraulic brakes. Not sure if that's typically services as part of a standard brake job (as I do my own brakes)