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question on pushrod measuring. 1. am I doing this properly? cyl 1 exhaust to the top of the lobe lift puts the intake at its lowest point. drop in checker tool a hundred times to get to zero lash. torque to 22 ft lbs. minimal side to side movement zero lash. remove tool and measure.
repeat for exhaust side.
measurements are as follows
cyl 1 intake 7.9450"
cyl 1 exhaust 7.9400"
diff. between the 2 are ..005"
these # are before adding the .035 preload +/- .010
cyl 1 intake with preload 7.980
cyl1 exhaust with preload. 7.975
8.0 for the intake/exhaust pushrod sound correct? is it normal to see a .005 difference between the intake and exhaust?
is it normal to see that much difference between intake and exhaust ?
avg all 16 pushrod measurements to get a total of 127.2265 divide by 16 equals 7.9516. add .035 preload equals 7.9866. theres a .010 +/- which would total 7.9966 will be ordering 8.00 " pushrods unless someone sees an issue with my calculations?
I would use a 7.98... yes .005 difference is normal.
When I spoke to the guy at Johnson, he did say that the lifters come pumped-up with oil so you/we can get a proper pushrod measurement... Just DO NOT turn the motor over with the pushrod installed with the rocker arm tightened down, because the oil will leak out and throw off your measurements...
yes johnson link bar lifters.
heres my sheet of all the measurements. unfortunately I dont see any place that has a 7.98 size pushrod. most are either 7.975 or 8.00
Oem pushrod measurement. 7.8495
Cyl 1 Cyl 3 Cyl 5 Cyl 7
Intake
7.9450 7.9625 7.9590 7.9550
Exhaust
7.9400 7.9490 7.9550 7.9545
Cyl 2 Cyl 4 Cyl 6 Cyl 8
Intake
7.9575 7.9545 7.9500 7.9540
Exhaust
7.9525 7.9450 7.9440 7.9490
Intake avg = 63.6375 divided by 8 = 7.9546
Exhaust avg = 63.5890 divided by 8 = 7.9486
Ad .035 preload Intake 7.9896
Exhaust 7.9836
Ad +/- .010 intake 7.9996
Exhaust 7.9936
Avg all 16 pushrods = 127.2265 divided by 16 = 7.9516
Just a heads up, if you order 8.0 pushrods, they Will be longer than 8.0.... The number on the push rod will Always be longer..! I've seen it . 020 longer..! I would order the shorter ones, and remeasure them... I would also use a 3/8 pushrod for some added stiffness... 👍🏻
Just a heads up, if you order 8.0 pushrods, they Will be longer than 8.0.... The number on the push rod will Always be longer..! I've seen it . 020 longer..! I would order the shorter ones, and remeasure them... I would also use a 3/8 pushrod for some added stiffness... 👍🏻
well that sucks. I hate to order the shorter ones and find out they wont work have to deal with returns and ordering longer ones. you would think they would be the advertised length since thats why people order them
after sleeping on this come to a realization im going for the length wrong. went to the max .035 +/- .010 if I go from the actual avg. length of 7.986 and subtract the .010 I get 7.976. so ordering the 7.975 would be perfect and if they do run long I still have a .010 window to play with. THANKS FOR THE INFO!!
Just a reminder, the bolt that goes into the intake-rocker, you must use a high temp sealant on it.! I would also use assembly lube on the tips of the rockers and push rod ends to help with startup.
Just a reminder, the bolt that goes into the intake you must use a high temp sealant on it.! I would also use assembly lube on the tips of the rockers and push rod ends to help with startup.
are you talking about the rocker bolts? I don’t have an intake it’s a blower car
when I built my custom engine the method I thought was right was first just using an adjustable length pushrod, and putting layout fluid on the tip of the valve stem.
Then cycling the lifter looking at the wear pattern to "zero in" on getting the line right on center. Since the rocker sweeps across a path when cycling you just look for centering.
That way it doesn't put a big side load on the guide when it cycles.
As far as I know that's the only way to truly be sure it's precisely the right length and will sweep right on center on the tip of the valve
This method only really works with roller rockers though, so not sure if this car uses that.
when I built my custom engine the method I thought was right was first just using an adjustable length pushrod, and putting layout fluid on the tip of the valve stem.
Then cycling the lifter looking at the wear pattern to "zero in" on getting the line right on center. Since the rocker sweeps across a path when cycling you just look for centering.
That way it doesn't put a big side load on the guide when it cycles.
As far as I know that's the only way to truly be sure it's precisely the right length and will sweep right on center on the tip of the valve
This method only really works with roller rockers though, so not sure if this car uses that.
no rollers just che upgraded trunnions on oem non adjustable rockers. they seat in the rocker pocket with zero lash theres no place but center for them to go. the link bar lifters when seated the pushrod has to sit in the center. its getting the no lash with minimal side to side and not being to tight that takes forever. assemble wiggle disassemble rinse and repeat at .050 for each complete turn. its a tedious way but its the right way too kn ow each pushrod is measured and a theres no huge discrepancy