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Alternate procedure to remove FE3 spring to prepare for installation of FE7 spring. When mechanical means just isn't getting the job done. Here is an alternate method to remove your FE3 spring to get ready to install your FE7 spring on your C7
Now you just have to do the same thing to the new one before installing.
On second thought...dropping the lower control arm at the inner mounting points might be a better idea
Yes, of course I was trying that for an hour. But the Helms manual I was using as reference clearly stated to make sure you didn't pull the CV axle out too far. So I was more worried about that than anything. After removing the old spring, that is the first thing I did. Putting the new spring in was a piece of cake. And of course I dropped the fuel tank first to remove the $60 bolt. (Just kidding). I know how much it cost because I DIDN'T DROP THE FUEL TANK, but instead I cut the bolt that GM engineers foolishly put in from the wrong direction and had to buy a new one. All of that trouble was well worth it because the new FE7 spring is handling all the ups and downs of our concrete Texas roads fine now without letting the "Too Big" rear tires rub. Thanks for your reply, and humor!
Excellent! I will try that next time. I just didn't want to pull the axle. And the only ball joint separator I had was the one I used on my 911, and it wouldn't fit. But appreciate the post, and very good pictures.
if your doing a front spring you could also remove the upper control arm bolts and bolts to the shock. (if mag ride UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR!). lower the entire suspension down and slide the spring out. just did mine to replace a stuck lowering bolt.
Also a good idea, so thanks. It's funny, about the time you get over the learning curve on a project, you're done. So "the next time" might never happen. I wanted to show you a little trick I use to adjust the spring ride height adjusting bolts. Maybe it is how everyone else does it. I am still waiting on a longer turnbuckle shaft to be able to use the spring removal tool I bought, (which was hard to find and too expensive), for bolt adjustment. The sleever bar is quick and easy, and is a carry over from my days working in the oil refineries. I just kind of bounce it as I turn the bolts. My preference is almost all the way down to give more clearance to keep from scraping on my terrible driveway to street transition. They put a sewer cleanout in the middle of my driveway which is way too high. Keep on driving your C7. We need to show off our cars whenever we can. I drove up to Missouri from Dallas this weekend and only saw one other C7 on the whole 16 hour round trip. Sad.
for my car (and your car may vary) I simply put it on my lift and with the wheels off and suspension just hanging theres enough room in the control arm pocket to turn the bolts by hand. I have used anti seize on each corner and run the bolts up and down so the epoxied collar in the spring gets a good lube. so far zero issues
Also a good idea, so thanks. It's funny, about the time you get over the learning curve on a project, you're done. So "the next time" might never happen. I wanted to show you a little trick I use to adjust the spring ride height adjusting bolts. Maybe it is how everyone else does it. I am still waiting on a longer turnbuckle shaft to be able to use the spring removal tool I bought, (which was hard to find and too expensive), for bolt adjustment. The sleever bar is quick and easy, and is a carry over from my days working in the oil refineries. I just kind of bounce it as I turn the bolts. My preference is almost all the way down to give more clearance to keep from scraping on my terrible driveway to street transition. They put a sewer cleanout in the middle of my driveway which is way too high. Keep on driving your C7. We need to show off our cars whenever we can. I drove up to Missouri from Dallas this weekend and only saw one other C7 on the whole 16 hour round trip. Sad.
Is this how everyone does it?
raise car, Jack stand under spring with rag on stand, lower car. Repeat for all corners. It’s like a 20 minute process to do all corners. Use a ratcheting box wrench.
I use a big bar too but do it w/ the wheel off. Then I can come in over the side of the LCA and use it as a fulcrum to lift the spring w/ the end of my bar. Bruno I like your jack stand technique. I will try that next time because I am at my limit being far enough out on the bar for leverage and still being able to reach the wrench on the bolt w/ my other hand.
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FE7 Spring
