I have been battling a p0132 code for weeks if not months. bank 1 sensor 1 heater inop. randomly I will get a bank1 sensor 1 high voltage code but the inop heater is constant.

started chasing it and found the o2 sensor connector burnt from the header. I swore I would never do headers did them and knew this would happen!! so I bought a new upstream o2 sensor cut the burnt connector out of the harness and using a duetche connector I repaired all 4 wires.
wiring went as follows
sensor in header. ------------------- wire harness
blue wire --------------------------- violet/dark stripe wire
white wire -------------------------- tan wire
black wire ---------------------------- violet / blue stripe wire (found this to be switched power )
black wire --------------------------- black wire

now all I read the 2 black wires aren't polarity specific so they can be interchanged doesnt matter

this worked fine for 1 10 minute session. next day started car and codes are back afr is all over the place until the car is hot then they fall in line


questions I have for now are

1. is there only 1 power lead?
2. are the back wires ground?
3. looks like violet wires are signal wires correct?

if I have these wired properly why does the o2 sensor heater not work? new ac delco o2 sensor not eBay cheapies

I found this diagram but honestly I dont know how to read it I see the violet /blue stripe as the power I confirmed that but my colors aren't the same as this diagram

any help to lead the blind would be appreciated. im sure its something simple or stupid I did but im lost at this point. I do have an oem gm connectrpor and pins but to install it will require removing the header which is a major Pia and I dont see the difference between duetche roll pins and gm crimp pins
I also used a power probe to confirm with acc on the violet/ blue stripe wire is the only switched power source. the other 3 wires aren't lighting up the probe. should there be another power source?

doing more research and keep seeing g this in the description of the sensor itself. "saying special programming needed'. I ASKED MY TUNER AND HE SAYS NO IT DOESNT. could this be the root cause?

https://parts.gmparts.com/product/gm...ineBaseId=5920

 

This is the wiring for your 2017 below...1 fuse supplies power for 2 sensor heater circuits...the ECM supplies a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) ground to heat the sensors...signal and signal ground is supplied by the ECM...the signal ground has the ground symbol on the wiring at the ECM...normally on the O2 sensor the heater circuit are 2 black or white wires...each manufacturer may be different so those colors aren't shown on the OEM wiring... the 0132 is a circuit high voltage so if the 12 volts from the heater circuit is rubbing the signal wire you will have a circuit high...the O2 normally is 1 volt max...there is no special programming of the sensor and if someone told you there is he is an idiot !!..I'd send you the "flow chart" for the P0132 but I don't know your "skill level"...what are your O2 sensors reading on your scan tool with ignition ON ??

 

see im literally blind when it comes to electronic diagrams . as for the special programming I linked the gm dealer ad for the sensor and what they say. this is on virtually every gm dealer website that sells parts online

BUT heres what I just did. took the original 2017 o2 sensor and clipped off the burnt connector. pinned a duetsche connector to it and plugged it in the car. acc on read codes which ranged from o2 heater inop to high voltage too low voltage cleared all of them cleared any history and turned off the acc. then started the car. no eng lites no codes my wideband is reading 14.5 to 16 from idle and car is up to eng and oil temp and happy. most like the original sensor was programmed and the new one I had installed wasnt!! im going to try agin sunday and see if it lasts more than a few miles before setting the codes off.

I dont have a scan tool I have a rtd device to dialog and send to my tuner. im going to order a cable and connect it to the hp tuners software and try to watch the o2 voltage in live time and see if theres a difference
heres the online instructions

 

The O2 sensor does not need to be "programmed" !!...Who TF told you this ??...so not knowing how to read a wiring diagram take your car to an automotive electrical shop...this Forum is not the place to learn.

 

so for me this is fixed. took the old sensor cut off the burnt plug pinned a new plug and no more issues. programming or not failed new sensor or not all I know is now theres no codes no lites and drove it 35 miles today .

feel free to close this thread