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Carbon Ceramic Brakes: Burnishing Procedure

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Old 03-30-2015, 01:54 AM
  #61  
jvp
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Originally Posted by One Curve at a time
Isn't there an "easier" bedding process once the CCB are burnished?
It's not bedding that you're trying to do. Bedding is for the rotor. The burnishing process is to season the pads. So if they're new, they have to go through the process again.
Old 03-30-2015, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jvp
It's not bedding that you're trying to do. Bedding is for the rotor. The burnishing process is to season the pads. So if they're new, they have to go through the process again.
TY for the clarification!
Old 04-05-2015, 10:47 PM
  #63  
Babaron
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So do the ccb rotors not need the bedding?
Old 04-06-2015, 07:56 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Babaron
So do the ccb rotors not need the bedding?
Nope. Worry about the pads, not the rotors.
Old 04-09-2015, 10:35 AM
  #65  
Daisuke149
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So i did the burnish. The pedal feel is really soft. Anyone else feel this?
Old 04-09-2015, 10:56 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Daisuke149
So i did the burnish. The pedal feel is really soft. Anyone else feel this?


Bleed your brakes ! !
Old 04-09-2015, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Pumba
Bleed your brakes ! !
They are properly bled with motul 660f

I think i just gotta get used to em.
Old 04-09-2015, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Daisuke149
They are properly bled with motul 660f

I think i just gotta get used to em.
The system that I have found that works best when I was running AP600 brake fluid which should be comarable to your Motul 660f is when changing pads burnish the pads with old fluid in the car. During the burnishing process when the pads start smoking (outgassing) the pedal will start to go soft. That seems to be from a combination of pads overheating, ougasssing causing a layer of gas to form between the rotor surface/pad as well as the caliper and brake fluid getting hot. After burnishing the brakes I then bleed the brakes and run a bottle (1/2 liter) of fresh fluid through the system. Once done the pedal is firm.

Since last year I have switched to SRF and now I just flush the fluid once every 6 months and do not touch the brakes at all in between track days (roughly 3x per month) or after burnishing pads and have had zero issues with brake performance. I allways thought SRF was crazy expensive but it has really reduced the amount of time & labor involved with preparing the car for a track day!
Old 04-09-2015, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Werks
The system that I have found that works best when I was running AP600 brake fluid which should be comarable to your Motul 660f is when changing pads burnish the pads with old fluid in the car. During the burnishing process when the pads start smoking (outgassing) the pedal will start to go soft. That seems to be from a combination of pads overheating, ougasssing causing a layer of gas to form between the rotor surface/pad as well as the caliper and brake fluid getting hot. After burnishing the brakes I then bleed the brakes and run a bottle (1/2 liter) of fresh fluid through the system. Once done the pedal is firm.

Since last year I have switched to SRF and now I just flush the fluid once every 6 months and do not touch the brakes at all in between track days (roughly 3x per month) or after burnishing pads and have had zero issues with brake performance. I allways thought SRF was crazy expensive but it has really reduced the amount of time & labor involved with preparing the car for a track day!
Awesome. I will try that. Got a friend tech here with all the tools and some extra 660. Appreciate it
Old 05-03-2015, 11:37 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Daisuke149
So i did the burnish. The pedal feel is really soft. Anyone else feel this?
I just went through the process this AM something seemed strange when doing it because the Rt Front started smoking heavily soon in the process at around stop #25. I went ahead and finished the process with the Rt front smoking throughout. The Lft front started smoking around stop #40. Once I got home and looked at the front pads the Rt Front heated up extremely hot enough to turn the entire pad area white and melt the paint off of the metal pad backing. The left front seemed ok with just a small depth of white in the pad. I have posted pics below. I am concerned there could be something wrong with the bias in the system with more pressure going to the Rt Front. I did not have any pull to the Rt though during the process or after. From what I have read and seen pictures of post pads this doesn't seem normal.. Thoughts? Should it go back to the dealer? Is the Rt front pad still any good should it be replaced?Name:  LF pad.jpg
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Old 05-03-2015, 11:49 AM
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To be honest I'm not sure I like the look of that R front pad; it looks far too 'cooked'. I'd go back to the dealership and ask for new front pads under warranty and repeat the process. It does look like it got way too hot compared to the left.
Bish
Old 05-03-2015, 12:46 PM
  #72  
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that one does look pretty knarly i would take that pad out and inspect it to make sure no material chunkage when taken out. if not should be good but sure is nasty lookin
Old 05-11-2015, 03:09 PM
  #73  
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I'm planning on driving my new Z06 from dealer in San Diego to east bay in SF, its about 500 odd miles, I'm new to brake burnishing , Would it be ok if i just drive normally and take care of the burnishing when I'm back home.
All I'm planning to do is check Fluid levels/Alignment and Tire pressure before i leave the dealership. Anything else to lookout for ??.
I have read some posts that differential fluid was not filled to correct level on a few cars, is there any indicator that tells the differential fluid level.
Please advise , mine is Z06/Z07/3LZ manual.
Old 05-11-2015, 04:41 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by sixthsense114
I'm planning on driving my new Z06 from dealer in San Diego to east bay in SF, its about 500 odd miles, I'm new to brake burnishing , Would it be ok if i just drive normally and take care of the burnishing when I'm back home.
In fact it's required. You don't want to start the burnishing process until you have a few hundred miles on the brakes. You'll be fine.
Old 07-27-2015, 12:14 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by jvp
You didn't brandish them completely, so you need to start the process again. Fifty stops. It's a pain in the ***, but worth the effort.

Then when you get to the track, follow the track burnishing as outlined in the manual.
A8 Z07 car stalled twice on deceleration
and seamed like it was initially choking to get going again from 0 to 60
After 35 cycles my left front was glowing bright orange and I saw what appeared to be a fire
That's when I quit
The right front doesn't show as much heating as the left front and the rears show
no evidence of any heat
Did an autocross event later that day and the brakes feel fine
Thoughts?

Thoughts
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:42 PM
  #76  
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^^^^^^Bump for thoughts....
Old 08-25-2015, 01:13 PM
  #77  
hootowlc7
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This is how I do it


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Old 08-25-2015, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by hootowlc7
This is how I do it


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Old 08-26-2015, 11:31 PM
  #79  
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Cool!
Old 09-08-2015, 11:29 PM
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I asked Hendricks salesman and service about burnishing my breaks and they told me not to do it? I had the feeling that they didn't really know very much about it......


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