Carbon Ceramic Brakes: Burnishing Procedure
#61
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#62
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#68
Drifting
Since last year I have switched to SRF and now I just flush the fluid once every 6 months and do not touch the brakes at all in between track days (roughly 3x per month) or after burnishing pads and have had zero issues with brake performance. I allways thought SRF was crazy expensive but it has really reduced the amount of time & labor involved with preparing the car for a track day!
#69
The system that I have found that works best when I was running AP600 brake fluid which should be comarable to your Motul 660f is when changing pads burnish the pads with old fluid in the car. During the burnishing process when the pads start smoking (outgassing) the pedal will start to go soft. That seems to be from a combination of pads overheating, ougasssing causing a layer of gas to form between the rotor surface/pad as well as the caliper and brake fluid getting hot. After burnishing the brakes I then bleed the brakes and run a bottle (1/2 liter) of fresh fluid through the system. Once done the pedal is firm.
Since last year I have switched to SRF and now I just flush the fluid once every 6 months and do not touch the brakes at all in between track days (roughly 3x per month) or after burnishing pads and have had zero issues with brake performance. I allways thought SRF was crazy expensive but it has really reduced the amount of time & labor involved with preparing the car for a track day!
Since last year I have switched to SRF and now I just flush the fluid once every 6 months and do not touch the brakes at all in between track days (roughly 3x per month) or after burnishing pads and have had zero issues with brake performance. I allways thought SRF was crazy expensive but it has really reduced the amount of time & labor involved with preparing the car for a track day!
#70
#71
Melting Slicks
To be honest I'm not sure I like the look of that R front pad; it looks far too 'cooked'. I'd go back to the dealership and ask for new front pads under warranty and repeat the process. It does look like it got way too hot compared to the left.
Bish
Bish
#73
I'm planning on driving my new Z06 from dealer in San Diego to east bay in SF, its about 500 odd miles, I'm new to brake burnishing , Would it be ok if i just drive normally and take care of the burnishing when I'm back home.
All I'm planning to do is check Fluid levels/Alignment and Tire pressure before i leave the dealership. Anything else to lookout for ??.
I have read some posts that differential fluid was not filled to correct level on a few cars, is there any indicator that tells the differential fluid level.
Please advise , mine is Z06/Z07/3LZ manual.
All I'm planning to do is check Fluid levels/Alignment and Tire pressure before i leave the dealership. Anything else to lookout for ??.
I have read some posts that differential fluid was not filled to correct level on a few cars, is there any indicator that tells the differential fluid level.
Please advise , mine is Z06/Z07/3LZ manual.
#74
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In fact it's required. You don't want to start the burnishing process until you have a few hundred miles on the brakes. You'll be fine.
#75
Instructor
and seamed like it was initially choking to get going again from 0 to 60
After 35 cycles my left front was glowing bright orange and I saw what appeared to be a fire
That's when I quit
The right front doesn't show as much heating as the left front and the rears show
no evidence of any heat
Did an autocross event later that day and the brakes feel fine
Thoughts?
Thoughts
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knightindustries2000 (11-25-2021)
#79
Drifting
Cool!