thebishman

I did the exact same thing about 4 weeks ago where I arrived at my local track with brand new, un-burnished front pads as I didn't have time to perform the street burnishing procedure.

I essentially had no front brakes the first run session, and ended up having to wave everyone in the run group by me. It is not a great feeling getting up to speed and then after about two laps noticing that the car simply isn't slowing down like it should.

By the second run session I had full braking ability and the pads have a nice white discoloration to them, but it wasn't fun at the time.

If at all possible get some significant heat into these pads prior to going to the track, or start last in your first run group and watch your speed.

Bish

Max7C7Marcos

greetings,

greatly appreciate the knowledge shared, very informative

on a separate note, and probably this does not apply to everybody, but I'm sure at least a few founds themselves on the same scenario

if to the best of my knowledge, reviewing maps and driving around, there are NO roads where you can legally get to 60 mph (funny, all those desolated roads have max 45mph, and/or the do not pass sign, so if you get traffic, you're done), and highways are off, cannot stop without risking a faster car coming behind...

hence, finally the question: has anybody done the street burnishing on a track?? (not driving the track, still under 1,500 miles, certainly will do the proper track burnishing afterwards)

so, has anybody successfully done this.. I imagine making an agreement with the people running the event, arriving to the track as early as possible, or running alone at lunch, or by the end)

would doing the runs+stop on the straights (probably max 2 runs per straight... if not 1), while running the corners in between (not braking there!!! of course, but would that extra cool down in between run+stop hinder the whole process?

certainly this is not the OEM manual-10-min-straight-line-procedure, that'd be my first choice without question, but those conditions can be really hard to find (I live in South Florida, so the closest track is Homestead Speedway)

Any suggestions/comments/education will be greatly appreciated.

Max7C7Marcos

nope... that idea was good on paper, not on execution, too much distance in between straights

found a rural straight, 65mph max speed, no min speed, 70 miles from home

MRHTRD

I burnished mine at 3:30 AM on a highway not far from my house. There was some traffic, so whenever a vehicle was approaching me from behind, I just pulled over in the break down lane and stopped for a few seconds until it went by. Smell bad ??? oh yeah !!

Then per the manual I burnished them on the track as well.

Here is my question..... I now have had three days on the track since doing the burnishing procedure on these pads and now I get a squealing sound from my brakes when I am driving on the street. Any thoughts on what I may have done wrong.

I followed the directions to a T.

Thanks,

jvp

Perfectly normal. You're going to have to live with that now.

MRHTRD

I have only found a handful of guys in my situation. Most of the Z07 guys I know are not having this problem. So what gives ???

jvp

They didn't completely the burnishing properly. You did. That's why.

Questar

Mine squeal on the street during slow light stopping. Didn't before I burnished and began tracking but they do now 😉

jvp

It can very likely be solved by a light application of brake grease on the backs of the pads. The high temperatures achieved during burnishing probably melt the noise abatement material on the pad backings, which is why they squeal like stuck pigs.

carcrazysammy

After re-reading this thread I feel like a dumbass. Yesterday evening I went to burnish the pads but didn't follow the 10 miniute time procedure. The car was run up to 60 with heavy braking to a not complete stop. Gassed it back up to 60, wash and repeat. On stop 25 the pedal started getting soft. Stop 28 and the brakes were almost gone. I got out to look and the drivers side was fully engulfed in flame. Didn't take the time to look at the passenger but I am sure it was the same.

Ran it for a cool down for 20 minutes and the pedal was right where it should be. The pads look great, with the white line like others in this thread.

Since the duration was not a full 10 minutes do you think it should be done again?

Thanks! Sammy

2TallTulip

The owners manual says about 10 minutes.

What you experienced is normal.

Did you continue past stop #28 and complete all 50 stops?

carcrazysammy

Nope. At the time I didn't know what I had done wrong so I stopped there.

2TallTulip

from what i have read you need to do all 50 stops.

see JVP posts and replies.

if it was me i would do the process over again and complete all 50 stops.

my suggestions in this post or the other burnishing post may help.

Dabigsnake

I believe as long as you get the hot enough to out-gas, which makes you lose pedal, I think you are good to go. They will smoke and your pedal will go to the floor, then you must drive to cool them off. Once this is done, then you should not lose pedal on street or track, as I believe that is the main (safety) reason to burnish them.

phantasms

Sorry if this has been asked before...

My dealer replaced both of my front pads on my 43k miles Z07 to fix the premature brakes worn message. The mechanic said they looked almost new when he took them off. I had burnished them all way back in the day. Of corse now it's not stopping so hot with the new pads. Is it ok to burnish with new front pads and rears that we're previously burnished? Obviously much of the game is played on the front pads but I just want to be sure not to overtoast my rears.

Thanks!

Best,
Gene

Questar

I watched a really informative video that really gave me a better understanding of the entire burnishing process and purpose. Well worth the time to watch. In it they indicated that there is no issue re-burnishing brakes that have been previously burnished... in fact there are times when it might even be necessary.

The video comes from the website of the folks at AP Racing... though they obviously have a vested interest in selling brake systems the video doesn't really come off as a "sales pitch" and is done more to educate about the reasons for and process of the burnishing. Interesting that they actually offer a burnishing option for many of their pro racing customers who buy brand new rotors from them already burnished and matched to the type of pads they'll be using... anyway I'll let you watch the video and learn about it yourselves.

phantasms

Thank you very much!!!

I'll pick up a few pounds of Dramamine and get to it.

Best,
Gene

hemmerman

I have a 2017 C7ZO6 I have CC brakes but not ZO7 package. Auto trans. I have a warning message "brakes worn" message. I have called Chevy dealership where i bought the car. They act stupid about it. (usuall responce). any info apreciated.

thebishman

Sean Tex

thebishman,
It is a relatively easy task to troubleshoot. Disconnect the brake sensor wire (behind the rotor) one at a time until the message goes away. If its a bad sensor you can leave it disconnected and rely on the opposite brake pad sensor to warn you when it's time to replace your pads. If disconnecting the sensor wires does not clear the fault, visually check the wiring for a ground short and if there isn't any then it would appear to be a controller fault and that should be covered under the warranty.
BTW I have all 4 of my brake pad sensor wires disconnected as I replace the CC system with AP Racing iron discs and race pads that have no sensors (I only track my car, no street driving) ...... and this way I never get a "brakes worn" message LOL!