Trailer Advice
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Orange County CA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 936
Likes: 254
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 49
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 931
Likes: 96
From: Canyon Country CA
trailer
I bought a 24' ATC aluminum enclosed trailer to transport the Z. It has an escape hatch, extension ramps and is a beavertail design.
This trailer has room to access the tie downs and Airline Track to loop straps over the tires. Cabinets up front and very good quality.
Resale is always a consideration as well as reliability and safety. With 4 wheel electric disc brakes, this trailer tows the Z with another 1k lbs without sway and with excellent braking.
My previous CA mfg steel trailer weighed 1200 lbs more, was poor quality and used up most of my vehicle's tow rating in just the empty trailer weight.
This trailer has room to access the tie downs and Airline Track to loop straps over the tires. Cabinets up front and very good quality.
Resale is always a consideration as well as reliability and safety. With 4 wheel electric disc brakes, this trailer tows the Z with another 1k lbs without sway and with excellent braking.
My previous CA mfg steel trailer weighed 1200 lbs more, was poor quality and used up most of my vehicle's tow rating in just the empty trailer weight.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 218
From: NY
Thanks
A
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 119
Likes: 5
ATC trailers match the quality of a Featherlite but for less dollars. They are a great trailer built in Indiana. I have had a 32' car hauler loaded with cabinets, work bench and a generator in a dedicated outside storage compartment . I added runners and track pads since I primarily use it as a 6 place snowmobile trailer . It is a triaxle so it floats along on almost any road. It is 10 years old and it looks and operates like new. my unit is longer than you need for transporting a car so I would go with a 2 axle 24' ATC trailer . They have lots of options. You will not be sorry with an ATC product
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Orange County CA
I bought a 24' ATC aluminum enclosed trailer to transport the Z. It has an escape hatch, extension ramps and is a beavertail design.
This trailer has room to access the tie downs and Airline Track to loop straps over the tires. Cabinets up front and very good quality.
Resale is always a consideration as well as reliability and safety. With 4 wheel electric disc brakes, this trailer tows the Z with another 1k lbs without sway and with excellent braking.
My previous CA mfg steel trailer weighed 1200 lbs more, was poor quality and used up most of my vehicle's tow rating in just the empty trailer weight.
This trailer has room to access the tie downs and Airline Track to loop straps over the tires. Cabinets up front and very good quality.
Resale is always a consideration as well as reliability and safety. With 4 wheel electric disc brakes, this trailer tows the Z with another 1k lbs without sway and with excellent braking.
My previous CA mfg steel trailer weighed 1200 lbs more, was poor quality and used up most of my vehicle's tow rating in just the empty trailer weight.
Also, what's your trailer weigh? I got a CH405, 22' with 6'6" inside height. Should be finished on the assembly line this week, can't wait!
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,661
Likes: 67
From: Ocean Springs MS
If you are going open, give serious consideration to an aluminum tilt-bed.
Aluma and H&H both make nice trailers. A bare 18' tilt bed with no tire rack, tongue box, etc will be around 1500#. Add a tire rack or nose shield, tongue box and winch and they are around 2000#.
They don't rust or rot and hold good value. However loading one on a hot sunny day is like working in a frying pan.
S.
Aluma and H&H both make nice trailers. A bare 18' tilt bed with no tire rack, tongue box, etc will be around 1500#. Add a tire rack or nose shield, tongue box and winch and they are around 2000#.
They don't rust or rot and hold good value. However loading one on a hot sunny day is like working in a frying pan.
S.
Scraping the splitter.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,111
Likes: 1,029
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
It is a 24' Haulmark Pro Edge, fully finished inside, Dometic 20' awning, Dometic 15k BTU AC (run the trailer with two paralleled Honda EU2000 generators...~50# full of fuel, small and they are very quiet). It is a steel trailer, so about 1000-1200# heavier than an Al ATC or In-Tech. But i am towing with a Ram 2500 Cummins with 800# of torque, so no real issue with towing. I looked at a LOT of trailers, and quality is pretty much the same between the ATC and Haulmark.
S.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 119
Likes: 5
My experience is that you get what you pay for with trailers. Go cheap and you'll likely end up with shoddy quality and poor construction. One piece aluminum roofs, fully boxed and well constructed steel frames (4"x6" tube vs. I-beam), seamless aluminum exterior, plywood reinforced walls, cast corner caps, slide out steps, etc., etc. add cost.
You definitely want as much of a beavertail as you can get in a 20'. Get at least a 16" loading flap and a set of Race Ramps.
My own personal opinion is to stick with a reputable manufacturer. Haulmark and United make a pretty solid enclosed steel trailer for a decent price, the former being more costly. Once you got to ATC and InTech, price goes up but since they are aluminum weight goes down. Quality of both is very good.
IMO you are pushing it with using a RR to tow. An unfinished, bare, steel 8.5'x20' (no AC, cabinets, winch, etc.) in steel is going to be ~3300-3500#. Add your 3500# Z06 and you are basically maxing out the towing capacity of the truck. It'll have plenty of power, but short wheelbase, standard brakes, etc. won't make for a great tow. It's probably got load leveling suspension so at least it won't pull all the weight off the nose, but a SWB tow vehicle is sensitive to tongue weight.
My setup...
S.
You definitely want as much of a beavertail as you can get in a 20'. Get at least a 16" loading flap and a set of Race Ramps.
My own personal opinion is to stick with a reputable manufacturer. Haulmark and United make a pretty solid enclosed steel trailer for a decent price, the former being more costly. Once you got to ATC and InTech, price goes up but since they are aluminum weight goes down. Quality of both is very good.
IMO you are pushing it with using a RR to tow. An unfinished, bare, steel 8.5'x20' (no AC, cabinets, winch, etc.) in steel is going to be ~3300-3500#. Add your 3500# Z06 and you are basically maxing out the towing capacity of the truck. It'll have plenty of power, but short wheelbase, standard brakes, etc. won't make for a great tow. It's probably got load leveling suspension so at least it won't pull all the weight off the nose, but a SWB tow vehicle is sensitive to tongue weight.
My setup...
S.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 64
I'm at the bottom of the totem pole here... I actually recently picked this up for dirt cheap from a forum member who used it with both his C6Z06 and C7Z06 cars. It's well kept, new tires, has a built-in tire rack, tool box with winch, all tie downs and ramps, and no issues.
Took it to Sebring already and the custom 10' aluminum ramps also helps with loading/unloading... deck width is 82" therefore the Z06 fits fine. Both deck ramps towards the front has welded-on step-up height plates, which also acts as stoppers for even loading, therefore opening the driver's door doesn't hit the trailer's fender.
Took it to Sebring already and the custom 10' aluminum ramps also helps with loading/unloading... deck width is 82" therefore the Z06 fits fine. Both deck ramps towards the front has welded-on step-up height plates, which also acts as stoppers for even loading, therefore opening the driver's door doesn't hit the trailer's fender.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 55
From: Philadelphia PA
Trailer Ramp Calculator
Click on the graph in the signature below to open a Trailer Ramp Calculator to help determine the length and height of supplemental ramps which may be required for your car/trailer combo.
The calculator is intended to help select one of 20 different Race Ramps trailer ramps including several custom Reverse Logic Race Ramps models. However, the calculator can also be used to determine if the ramps supplied with your trailer are adequate. The first entry in the ramp allows you to specify up to a 132" length ramp without using a separate Race Ramps trailer ramp.
Here's another link to the calculator in case I change the signature down the road.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=1120306953
You can download a copy of the Google Sheet calculator to your local computer for improved performance. The calculator is a publicly shared tool so your car and trailer ramp dimensions are likely to be changed by the next person using the tool.
The calculator is intended to help select one of 20 different Race Ramps trailer ramps including several custom Reverse Logic Race Ramps models. However, the calculator can also be used to determine if the ramps supplied with your trailer are adequate. The first entry in the ramp allows you to specify up to a 132" length ramp without using a separate Race Ramps trailer ramp.
Here's another link to the calculator in case I change the signature down the road.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=1120306953
You can download a copy of the Google Sheet calculator to your local computer for improved performance. The calculator is a publicly shared tool so your car and trailer ramp dimensions are likely to be changed by the next person using the tool.
Last edited by Fred@ReverseLogic; Dec 19, 2015 at 08:47 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 854
From: Daytona Beach FL
I am awaiting delivery of one of these myself. Any pics with your Z? What do you do for ramps, by their calculation their door plus longest extension ramp would not have been long enough to load the car without still needing race ramps. I was bummed about that as I really wanted to avoid having to lug those around.
Also, what's your trailer weigh? I got a CH405, 22' with 6'6" inside height. Should be finished on the assembly line this week, can't wait!
Also, what's your trailer weigh? I got a CH405, 22' with 6'6" inside height. Should be finished on the assembly line this week, can't wait!
As mentioned, you're way up toward the max towing capability of your RR with that U-Haul rental.
Vehicles that are capable of towing will have a "tow rating" listed, that means how much weight the vehicle can "pull".
However, most tow vehicles are actually limited by their "PAYLOAD capacity" - that's how much your vehicle can "carry", and the tongue weight of a trailer is weight on the vehicle that counts as payload capacity.
Take a look on your door for the sticker with the payload capacity - usually on the tire sticker. You should see something like "weight of people and cargo should never exceed xxxx lbs".
That 24' ATC probably will weigh at least 3500, and more like 4000 lbs with some nice options. Here's a nice one that is listed at 3772 lbs:
http://www.bestpricetrailers.com/tra...x#.Vn16ETbSlrQ
Tongue weight of a trailer should be 10% to 15% of the total weight of the loaded trailer. That ATC with some track support stuff in it (jack, tools, spare set of tires/wheels, compressor, generator, etc.) will probably easily weigh more than 4500 lbs, and when you load your car into it will weigh in the 8000+ range. That would give you a tongue weight of 800 to 1200 lbs. And, you'll definitely need a WDH (Weight Distributing Hitch), and they weigh about 100 lbs that will also add to tongue weight.
I think that will be WAY over what your RR can tow, so plan on a nice truck with a payload capacity of probably at least 1800 to 2000 lbs. Just make sure you're not significantly exceeding any weight carrying capability of your tow vehicle that would make towing uncomfortable, unsafe, or create maintenance issues down the road.
Last edited by BEZ06; Dec 25, 2015 at 12:30 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,517
Likes: 50
From: hopatcong nj
As mentioned, you're way up toward the max towing capability of your RR.
Vehicles that are capable of towing will have a "tow rating" listed, that means how much weight the vehicle can "pull".
However, most tow vehicles are actually limited by their "PAYLOAD capacity" - that's how much your vehicle can "carry", and the tongue weight of a trailer is weight on the vehicle that counts as payload capacity.
Take a look on your door for the sticker with the payload capacity - usually on the tire sticker. You should see something like "weight of people and cargo should never exceed xxxx lbs".
Tongue weight of a trailer should be 10% to 15% of the total weight of the loaded trailer. You probably have a 600 lb to 750 lb tongue weight.
If the payload capacity of your RR is, say, 1200 lbs, and you have a 700 lb tongue weight, that leaves 500 lbs for people and stuff in the vehicle.
500 lbs isn't very much. Two people and some luggage can easily weigh nearly that much (at least with my wife's luggage!) - so you wouldn't have much weight capacity remaining for much in the way of tools, a jack, and other track support stuff.
Just make sure you're not significantly exceeding any weight carrying capability of your RR that would make towing uncomfortable, unsafe, or create maintenance problems.
Vehicles that are capable of towing will have a "tow rating" listed, that means how much weight the vehicle can "pull".
However, most tow vehicles are actually limited by their "PAYLOAD capacity" - that's how much your vehicle can "carry", and the tongue weight of a trailer is weight on the vehicle that counts as payload capacity.
Take a look on your door for the sticker with the payload capacity - usually on the tire sticker. You should see something like "weight of people and cargo should never exceed xxxx lbs".
Tongue weight of a trailer should be 10% to 15% of the total weight of the loaded trailer. You probably have a 600 lb to 750 lb tongue weight.
If the payload capacity of your RR is, say, 1200 lbs, and you have a 700 lb tongue weight, that leaves 500 lbs for people and stuff in the vehicle.
500 lbs isn't very much. Two people and some luggage can easily weigh nearly that much (at least with my wife's luggage!) - so you wouldn't have much weight capacity remaining for much in the way of tools, a jack, and other track support stuff.
Just make sure you're not significantly exceeding any weight carrying capability of your RR that would make towing uncomfortable, unsafe, or create maintenance problems.
Last edited by rattt g; Dec 25, 2015 at 12:14 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,894
Likes: 1,189
From: chicago
If you are going open, give serious consideration to an aluminum tilt-bed.
Aluma and H&H both make nice trailers. A bare 18' tilt bed with no tire rack, tongue box, etc will be around 1500#. Add a tire rack or nose shield, tongue box and winch and they are around 2000#.
They don't rust or rot and hold good value. However loading one on a hot sunny day is like working in a frying pan.
S.
Aluma and H&H both make nice trailers. A bare 18' tilt bed with no tire rack, tongue box, etc will be around 1500#. Add a tire rack or nose shield, tongue box and winch and they are around 2000#.
They don't rust or rot and hold good value. However loading one on a hot sunny day is like working in a frying pan.
S.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 854
From: Daytona Beach FL
Umm.....yeah, that's right - I never exceed the speed limit!!!
However, my rig does tow real nice at 80-85 mph where the speed limit is that high!!
My little Trailex is only about 20' long, and at all aluminum weighs about 2250 lbs. The manufacturer lists it at (and the sticker on the trailer says) 1800 lbs. However, with a number of options (electric tongue jack, winch and battery for both of them, a couple of storage lockers, spare tire/wheel rack, etc.) it comes in at 2250 lbs when I weighed it at my local CAT scales.
When I load up tools, jack, extra oil and brake fluid, a couple cans of gas, compressor, canopy, chairs, and other track support stuff, and the car - it totals out at about 6500 to 6600 lbs (that's with my ZR1 in it, probably a little more when I get my C7 Z06), with a tongue weight of around 725 lbs.
However, my rig does tow real nice at 80-85 mph where the speed limit is that high!!
My little Trailex is only about 20' long, and at all aluminum weighs about 2250 lbs. The manufacturer lists it at (and the sticker on the trailer says) 1800 lbs. However, with a number of options (electric tongue jack, winch and battery for both of them, a couple of storage lockers, spare tire/wheel rack, etc.) it comes in at 2250 lbs when I weighed it at my local CAT scales.
When I load up tools, jack, extra oil and brake fluid, a couple cans of gas, compressor, canopy, chairs, and other track support stuff, and the car - it totals out at about 6500 to 6600 lbs (that's with my ZR1 in it, probably a little more when I get my C7 Z06), with a tongue weight of around 725 lbs.
Last edited by BEZ06; Dec 25, 2015 at 01:22 PM.
Scraping the splitter.
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 8,111
Likes: 1,029
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15