When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am just adding an update based on just completing this on my C7 Z51 with Dry Sump Tank.
It's a pain in the butt because the Sump Tank is backed in there tight on the passenger side and difficult to get to the 3rd bottom screw to remove the vent.
I finally got the last screw removed but I had to remove my side skirt, remove the fender screws underneath the body, remove the Sump tank Bolt at the top and move bolt from Sump Tank at bottom behind the wheel liner.
Do all of this and it allows you to pull the fender out and get your hand behind there but it is still tough or tight but I finally got the last screw.
[QUOTE=hootowlc7;1589131870]Started this to consolidate how-to's on the trim pieces... vents, spats, grill and so on.
I will be replacing the wheel moldings (spats), hood vent, side "Z06" panels and the rear upper shoulder vents with carbon fiber pieces.
As I get responses, I'll update each one up here in the first post. Hopefully as the weather comes around here this coming few weeks, I'll attempt some of this myself with pictures.
Also, some people from non-Z06 forums might chime in as a few of the things might be done the same and they may have info from the service manual. We can also post links to YouTube or other posts.
Front wheel well spats
From member Elegant:
"The spats come off, starting at the front with an underneath bolt (just like mud guards), then three torque-headed small screws, then, across the top, two sided tape, then two male protrusions (to align it perfectly with the fender, with no snaps or clips there), then one "snap clip" (like the whole car is out together). Tiny bit tricky in the rearmost part (one snap-clip) because the front edge of the skirt is right against it, but can be finessed (no loosening nor adjustment of the skirts needed)."
Hood Vent
Open hood. Remove 2 torque head screws on the inside of the vent and remove large plastic cowling. Hood vent can then be pushed out from the outside of the hood to the inside. There are a number of plastic fasteners that can be quite hard to push out. Just use a bit of force on the outside rim of the vent so that you don't damage the vanes. Replacement is the reverse.
Side "Z06" Vent Panels on Front Fender
The fender vents are held on with three 8 mm nuts that you have to get to from behind.
The drivers side is pretty straight forward. Pull off the lower splash guard. Only one screw underneath. Grab the top edge of it and pull it forward.
Take 3 screws out of the wheel well liner.
Bend back the liner and there is just enough room with nimble fingers and a 8mm ratcheting wrench to break the nuts loose with the wrench and unscrew them with your fingers. Not to much of an issue if you drop one as it simply falls into the bottom and is easy to retrieve.
The passenger side requires partial removal of the fender. Just the back so you don't mess with the front... lights and such. You are only taking enough fender hardware off to be able to pull the fender out and reach in since the dry sump oil tank prohibits access like the drivers side.
Basically you need to remove all fender hardware starting on top under the hood.
Remove the trim piece in the corner of the windshield valance to get to another bolt under it. It simply pulls off.
Pull up on the windshield valance and remove bolt under there.
Remove bolt in door jam at top corner of fender.
If you have the side skirts you need to drill out probably 5 rivets and remove one skirt bolt up front because the skirt goes through the fender. You can't pull the back of the fender out if it's still attached to the skirt.
I think there are 4 more bolts along the bottom holding the fender.
At this point the rear of the fender is free. You might need to slide a screwdriver in the front lower portion of the fender-to-underside to release the drilled out rivet.
I slid some towels between the skirt and the fender so as not to scratch things up when I pulled the fender out just enough to do the job.
Once I got the fender pulled out I could very easily get to the hardware from the wheel well liner.
Didn't need to take off the fender or anything else. Did passenger side same as the drivers side method. Just need patience and thin ratchet / wrenches to fit in the small space.
Started this to consolidate how-to's on the trim pieces... vents, spats, grill and so on.
I will be replacing the wheel moldings (spats), hood vent, side "Z06" panels and the rear upper shoulder vents with carbon fiber pieces.
As I get responses, I'll update each one up here in the first post. Hopefully as the weather comes around here this coming few weeks, I'll attempt some of this myself with pictures.
Also, some people from non-Z06 forums might chime in as a few of the things might be done the same and they may have info from the service manual. We can also post links to YouTube or other posts.
Front wheel well spats
From member Elegant:
"The spats come off, starting at the front with an underneath bolt (just like mud guards), then three torque-headed small screws, then, across the top, two sided tape, then two male protrusions (to align it perfectly with the fender, with no snaps or clips there), then one "snap clip" (like the whole car is out together). Tiny bit tricky in the rearmost part (one snap-clip) because the front edge of the skirt is right against it, but can be finessed (no loosening nor adjustment of the skirts needed)."
Hood Vent
Open hood. Remove 2 torque head screws on the inside of the vent and remove large plastic cowling. Hood vent can then be pushed out from the outside of the hood to the inside. There are a number of plastic fasteners that can be quite hard to push out. Just use a bit of force on the outside rim of the vent so that you don't damage the vanes. Replacement is the reverse.
Side "Z06" Vent Panels on Front Fender
The fender vents are held on with three 8 mm nuts that you have to get to from behind.
The drivers side is pretty straight forward. Pull off the lower splash guard. Only one screw underneath. Grab the top edge of it and pull it forward.
Take 3 screws out of the wheel well liner.
Bend back the liner and there is just enough room with nimble fingers and a 8mm ratcheting wrench to break the nuts loose with the wrench and unscrew them with your fingers. Not to much of an issue if you drop one as it simply falls into the bottom and is easy to retrieve.
The passenger side requires partial removal of the fender. Just the back so you don't mess with the front... lights and such. You are only taking enough fender hardware off to be able to pull the fender out and reach in since the dry sump oil tank prohibits access like the drivers side.
Basically you need to remove all fender hardware starting on top under the hood.
Remove the trim piece in the corner of the windshield valance to get to another bolt under it. It simply pulls off.
Pull up on the windshield valance and remove bolt under there.
Remove bolt in door jam at top corner of fender.
If you have the side skirts you need to drill out probably 5 rivets and remove one skirt bolt up front because the skirt goes through the fender. You can't pull the back of the fender out if it's still attached to the skirt.
I think there are 4 more bolts along the bottom holding the fender.
At this point the rear of the fender is free. You might need to slide a screwdriver in the front lower portion of the fender-to-underside to release the drilled out rivet.
I slid some towels between the skirt and the fender so as not to scratch things up when I pulled the fender out just enough to do the job.
Once I got the fender pulled out I could very easily get to the hardware from the wheel well liner.
Do the Carbon Fiber Fender vents sell and contract like the stock plastic ones that come from the factory?
These carbon fiber vents were made by Apsis. They use the factory part and overlay carbon fiber on top. I don't have the edge problem but I have had nothing but issues with the carbon fiber delaminating. Replaced multiple parts multiple times. Stay away from Apsis.
I installed the APR Carbon Fiber on mine! If you are halfway handy it’s not bad but you do need to drop the rear bumper/diffuser. Go to YouTube and type in “corvette c7 spoiler installation” and you will find videos from people doing the install. Also type in the search box on the forum as you will find many threads showing how to do it.
Originally Posted by Brady McNew
Anyone removed the rear spoiler? I want to install my APR carbon fiber spoiler, but the task looks daunting from what I can tell.... TIA
I installed the APR Carbon Fiber on mine! If you are halfway handy it’s not bad but you do need to drop the rear bumper/diffuser. Go to YouTube and type in “corvette c7 spoiler installation” and you will find videos from people doing the install. Also type in the search box on the forum as you will find many threads showing how to do it.
Thank you. Subsequent to making this post I found some more information in the C7 forum. Doesn't seem as bad as I had previously thought. Thanks again. I'll search YouTube.
These carbon fiber vents were made by Apsis. They use the factory part and overlay carbon fiber on top. I don't have the edge problem but I have had nothing but issues with the carbon fiber delaminating. Replaced multiple parts multiple times. Stay away from Apsis.
I have Apsis parts on mine. They are all delaminating after a few years
All of the Carbon Fiber I have are APR which is the market leader in Carbon Fiber. I pay more for their pieces but the quality is second to none and have no delaminating on any of their parts.
Originally Posted by hootowlc7
I have Apsis parts on mine. They are all delaminating after a few years
I removed the side vents when the PP was put on the front clip. Be prepared to drop the nuts because the key holes might not be large enough to allow the nuts to pass through and it will be necessary to remove the nuts. I did enlarge the holes with a rat tail file before reinstalling them that made the process much easier. I was really tight on the passenger side with the oil sump and you'll need to use your finger tips to remove the nuts.
Before you start, you should hang by your finger tips to stretch your fingers out. Long skinny fingers would really make this job easier
03-25-2018, 08:49 PM
