All the fluids






So I had the oil changed after 500 miles and the differential fluid changed after my first track day. The car now has four track days on her and about 2700 miles. In a couple of weekends I have another two track days scheduled.
So far everything has been working flawlessly (knock on wood) but I'm wondering if she can handle two more track days without changing any fluids or if I should do it now?
Furthermore can someone tell me all the fluids that exist and should be changed?
Obviously oil and diff fluid, but what else is there? Brake, coolant, transmission, clutch, headlight lubricant, and what not?
Seriously tho, if someone could give me a list/rundown of everything that should be flushed and replaced it would be very helpful.
Thanks.
I've got a Z51 and I'm replacing the 15w-50 after about every 8 hours on the track. Track guide says do diff fluid after about 24 track hours, which I will do. I upgraded the brake fluid and will change that once a year to be safe (or after I boil it, if I manage to do that).
Flush and bleed the brakes using Castrol SRF or Motul RBF 660 (not 600...660 has a much higher BP both wet and dry).
The diff fluid should be fine. Also check the brake pads. You'll need to have at least 60% pad life on the front and probably the rear too since the PTM mode you're using utilizes the rear brakes to stabilize the car.
S.





Are fluids like the SRF available at the dealer or do I have to buy them and ask them to use them instead of what they normally use?
Other than that, are there any other specialty fluids that the dealer won't have that I need to bring with me when I get her serviced?
Are fluids like the SRF available at the dealer or do I have to buy them and ask them to use them instead of what they normally use?
Other than that, are there any other specialty fluids that the dealer won't have that I need to bring with me when I get her serviced?
S.
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Have the dealership change the engine oil with the Mobil 1 15W-50. I'd call them first to make sure they have it. If you have any doubts, buy it yourself and take it with you. You'll need nine litres.
Have the dealership change the rear differential oil IF you've been on track for over 24 hours of runtime since you had the diff fluid changed the first time.
Snorman brings up a good point re: brake pads. I would go ahead and buy a full set from Amazon of the OEM pads since they are so cheap there, and have the pads changed if you are less than 1/3 thickness especially on the tears as they really take a pounding with the 'nannies' left on.
Clutch fluid should be ok until after the track season is over at which time do a search here for the 'Ranger method' of clutch fluid replacement.
Bish
I think the key to longevity of the CC rotors when used on a road course is to not allow the pads to get too thin as then the heat transmitted to the rotor goes up as well as the chance of damaging the rotor from a rivet on the backing plate. Hence I'll replace my pads when I'm down to 1/3 depth.
Bish





- Oil change with Mobil 1 15w-50 (dealer ordered it for me and will include it as part of my free Complete Care Program)
- Differential fluid change with ACDelco 10-4034 Dexron LS 75W-90 Gear Oil
- Brake fluid change with Castrol SRF
- He will also check my CC brake pads and change if less than 40% and will check track alignment is still where it should be.
I already have the 80/20 coolant mix with purple ice so I'm leaving that alone.
Am I forgetting anything?
Thanks.





A couple of quick notes:
- After four track days my brake pads are apparently as good as new somewhere around 90%. Obviously I'm not fast enough to heavily wear them and so far the track I've been running is pretty easy on brakes. All that said the CC pads have a lot of life in them, which is a good thing seeing how expensive they are to replace.
- Same thing goes for my differential fluid. It was first changed during my 500 mile service and four track days later it looked almost as good as the new batch that went in. So apparently that doesn't need changing as often as some have suggested.
- Oil did need changing even though the DIC was showing about 50% life left in it. It wasn't dire, as in it could have handled another track day or two, so I guess the takeaway is about four to five track days is as much as you'd want to run on one oil change.
- I also had them reverse my drop on stock bolts back to the original ride height and realign. It doesn't look as good but they were able to do a true track alignment which the drop had prevented.
That's it really ... the whole thing took a day, mostly cause it took about four times of adjusting the drop bolts and letting her settle to get where she needed to be before alignment, but the whole thing was very routine and uneventful.
Thanks for the help.













