Radar detector
#1
Radar detector
Anyone use the Escort Solo S3 radar detector.
If so opinions in its performance.
I want a detector that is easy to move between several vehicles.
Thanks
If so opinions in its performance.
I want a detector that is easy to move between several vehicles.
Thanks
#4
I have an S2 which I am getting ready to replace with an S3. I too have to swap between numerous vehicles, and I sometimes take it with me when I am flying somewhere (it apparently looks like a bomb on x-ray and TSA always wants to see what it is....now I just take it out of my bag and place it in a bin with my other stuff). Messing with a power cord is a hassle. I get about 15-20 hours out of a pair of AA's.....and I have a power cord if I need it but I have never used it.
It is true that the wireless/battery powered units don't test as strongly as the wired units. However, in practice it has saved me (er...uh.......I mean, "properly alerted me as to a radar/lidar signal") MANY times, and does everything you need. You learn your local falsing areas.....you ignore X band signals, and when it goes off and you think it's real....SLOW DOWN and you won't get a ticket. For instant on situations.....like any other.....hopefully they will tag somebody in front of you and it will go off.....then...SLOW DOWN.
As with any detector....it is not a license to speed. A whole heap of common sense is required.
I really don't think that having a wired detector would have made any difference in my results (flame suit on; radar detector threads are like oil or wax threads; everyone has their favorites and some can be passionate about them).
It is true that the wireless/battery powered units don't test as strongly as the wired units. However, in practice it has saved me (er...uh.......I mean, "properly alerted me as to a radar/lidar signal") MANY times, and does everything you need. You learn your local falsing areas.....you ignore X band signals, and when it goes off and you think it's real....SLOW DOWN and you won't get a ticket. For instant on situations.....like any other.....hopefully they will tag somebody in front of you and it will go off.....then...SLOW DOWN.
As with any detector....it is not a license to speed. A whole heap of common sense is required.
I really don't think that having a wired detector would have made any difference in my results (flame suit on; radar detector threads are like oil or wax threads; everyone has their favorites and some can be passionate about them).
#5
Safety Car
I have an S2 which I am getting ready to replace with an S3. I too have to swap between numerous vehicles, and I sometimes take it with me when I am flying somewhere (it apparently looks like a bomb on x-ray and TSA always wants to see what it is....now I just take it out of my bag and place it in a bin with my other stuff). Messing with a power cord is a hassle. I get about 15-20 hours out of a pair of AA's.....and I have a power cord if I need it but I have never used it.
It is true that the wireless/battery powered units don't test as strongly as the wired units. However, in practice it has saved me (er...uh.......I mean, "properly alerted me as to a radar/lidar signal") MANY times, and does everything you need. You learn your local falsing areas.....you ignore X band signals, and when it goes off and you think it's real....SLOW DOWN and you won't get a ticket. For instant on situations.....like any other.....hopefully they will tag somebody in front of you and it will go off.....then...SLOW DOWN.
As with any detector....it is not a license to speed. A whole heap of common sense is required.
I really don't think that having a wired detector would have made any difference in my results (flame suit on; radar detector threads are like oil or wax threads; everyone has their favorites and some can be passionate about them).
It is true that the wireless/battery powered units don't test as strongly as the wired units. However, in practice it has saved me (er...uh.......I mean, "properly alerted me as to a radar/lidar signal") MANY times, and does everything you need. You learn your local falsing areas.....you ignore X band signals, and when it goes off and you think it's real....SLOW DOWN and you won't get a ticket. For instant on situations.....like any other.....hopefully they will tag somebody in front of you and it will go off.....then...SLOW DOWN.
As with any detector....it is not a license to speed. A whole heap of common sense is required.
I really don't think that having a wired detector would have made any difference in my results (flame suit on; radar detector threads are like oil or wax threads; everyone has their favorites and some can be passionate about them).
#6
I have not experienced this, but mine is an S2. I change the battery as soon as I get the "low battery" warning, which interestingly is when the battery indicator (on startup) still shows 2 bars (50%), but it usually takes 15-20 hours of usage to get there (and that is on the Northeast corridor where there is plenty of signalling going on....).
#10
Corvette fan
I have two Solo S3s. They are terrific detectors but, as all of the experts tell you, the main factor with a detector's effectiveness, all things equal, is power. There is no cordless detector that matches the effectiveness of one of the elite corded detectors.
I am currently running a V1 in my Z06. I wish they would add some features like GPS, but I love the directional information that V1 gives you that nobody else does.
I am currently running a V1 in my Z06. I wish they would add some features like GPS, but I love the directional information that V1 gives you that nobody else does.
#11
Corvette fan
I also should mention that I was running a Escort Passport Max 2 with the specific Blendmount and a power tap into the mirror, but the case came apart in front soon after I installed it. Escort is taking it back and replacing it with a new unit. They didn't say why, but I suspect there was a design or manufacturing problem with the first Max 2s.
#15
Pro
- use a small screw driver or pry tool to remove the cover off the wire harness compartment behind the mirror - remove the harness plug from the compartment and unplug it (separate the connector) as it is easier to seat the mirror tap wires - if you are doing this yourself, no extra hands, you will need to set up good lighting so you can see the area where the mirror tap ends are supposed to go
- remember that the mirror tap goes into the harness on the car side (meaning the part of the wire harness that goes up into the roof, not the side that goes to the mirror) & keep in mind that it will power the detector only after the car is started, not just in accessory mode
- it might be a tad harder to close up the cover if you do not have the harness tightly seated back exactly where it was, and the fact that you have the mirror tap wires coming from it....some have put a small notch in the cover to allow the mirror tap wires an easy way out (something i did not do, nor did i feel needed, but my cover was a bit hard to reseat, however it has never come off)
- MirrorTap sells a 9" & 12" long wire....the 9" was just right for me - also be sure to get the MirrorTap with the smallest ends (they have 2 sizes, you want the smaller ones as they will go in easier)
- here is the thread that will guide you:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-15-z51.html
Last edited by Rd16rr; 09-14-2015 at 05:23 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DRLC5 (09-14-2015)
#16
Burning Brakes
I also should mention that I was running a Escort Passport Max 2 with the specific Blendmount and a power tap into the mirror, but the case came apart in front soon after I installed it. Escort is taking it back and replacing it with a new unit. They didn't say why, but I suspect there was a design or manufacturing problem with the first Max 2s.
#17
Le Mans Master
the short story of it is: EASY
- use a small screw driver or pry tool to remove the cover off the wire harness compartment behind the mirror - remove the harness plug from the compartment and unplug it (separate the connector) as it is easier to seat the mirror tap wires - if you are doing this yourself, no extra hands, you will need to set up good lighting so you can see the area where the mirror tap ends are supposed to go
- remember that the mirror tap goes into the harness on the car side (meaning the part of the wire harness that goes up into the roof, not the side that goes to the mirror) & keep in mind that it will power the detector only after the car is started, not just in accessory mode
- it might be a tad harder to close up the cover if you do not have the harness tightly seated back exactly where it was, and the fact that you have the mirror tap wires coming from it....some have put a small notch in the cover to allow the mirror tap wires an easy way out (something i did not do, nor did i feel needed, but my cover was a bit hard to reseat, however it has never come off)
- MirrorTap sells a 9" & 12" long wire....the 9" was just right for me - also be sure to get the MirrorTap with the smallest ends (they have 2 sizes, you want the smaller ones as they will go in easier)
- here is the thread that will guide you:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-15-z51.html
- use a small screw driver or pry tool to remove the cover off the wire harness compartment behind the mirror - remove the harness plug from the compartment and unplug it (separate the connector) as it is easier to seat the mirror tap wires - if you are doing this yourself, no extra hands, you will need to set up good lighting so you can see the area where the mirror tap ends are supposed to go
- remember that the mirror tap goes into the harness on the car side (meaning the part of the wire harness that goes up into the roof, not the side that goes to the mirror) & keep in mind that it will power the detector only after the car is started, not just in accessory mode
- it might be a tad harder to close up the cover if you do not have the harness tightly seated back exactly where it was, and the fact that you have the mirror tap wires coming from it....some have put a small notch in the cover to allow the mirror tap wires an easy way out (something i did not do, nor did i feel needed, but my cover was a bit hard to reseat, however it has never come off)
- MirrorTap sells a 9" & 12" long wire....the 9" was just right for me - also be sure to get the MirrorTap with the smallest ends (they have 2 sizes, you want the smaller ones as they will go in easier)
- here is the thread that will guide you:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-15-z51.html