... Does it come with any, didn't see anything in the box ?

BTW - I've seen the vids, just wondering if I'm missing the install instructions.
They already screwed me out of the nomex sock.. :kinda irritated :

 

No instructions but many of us can help im sure.

 

This is for the AFE, but may help you along the way.
http://www.pfyc.com/supportfiles/c73001-install.pdf

 

Ok, cool.. Thanks guys. . I'm about to get into it now.

 

Same as the plastic version:

http://www.zora-corvette.com/CKNZ_Installation.pdf

 

About time. Thank you.

 

I didn't get any instructions with my CKNZ, but I did find the PDF and videos on the HallTech web site. It's a fairly simple install. There is a part of the install that replaces the rigid radiator over flow line with a longer flexible line. I was concerned about getting air into the coolant system, so I kept the original radiator line intact. I didn't want to do a vacuum bleed of my coolant system. Anyway, my install went very well and I'm very pleased with the results.

 

Good point. How did you route the coolant line? I have installed two systems without the bypass line, but the hard plastic lines are difficult to get out of the way of the airbox.

Here is a way to do the bypass without losing a minimum amount of coolant and to make sure there is no air in the line.

You can purchase the stock GM complete quick disconnect line from us or GM.

We can do the bypass setup and shorten the thermostat line for you. We can provide plugs with the line as well on the two ends.

Procedure:

Cold engine, with the pressure relieved from the surge tank, then tighten the tank cap right away to avoid forgetting to do so.

Disconnect the quick disconnect line radiator first. Immediately connect the modified bypass line and let it fill the line until removing the plugs presents fluid. Remember to keep the plugs on until you are ready to push the bypass hose onto the radiator nipple, then snap the blue security lock, If done correctly, you should lose a small amount of coolant at the radiator, but if you have the replacement line ready, it will be minimal.

The next one is the thermostat housing line. Disconnect the stock line and immediately take the plug out of the replacement hose and push it on the thermostat nipple.* So far you should have some coolant lose at the radiator when you switched from stock to the replacement and some coolant at the thermostat housing, but the replacement line should not have any air in it if done correctly. Shop rags under the line helps keep the coolant off the floor.

Last, take the OEM line off at the surge tank at the quick disconnect to the surge tank. Immediately snap the replacement line onto the surge tank nipple and snap the security lock. The blue lock is simple to secure once you have the line on. DON'T FORGET TO SNAP THE LOCK ON BOTH ENDS.

Use the provided zip ties to attach the coolant overflow line to the PCV line so it does not touch the MAF plug.

I suggest replacing any lost coolant after the engine warms up and cools down the first time.

*Be careful with the thermostat nipple, they can break off if pulled or pushed too hard.

 

I left the rigid coolant line on top of the CKNZ, and pulled it toward the center of the engine bay. In doing so, the rigid cooling line passes over the top of the alternator. I put a small strip of thermal tape between the alternator and the coolant line (in order to prevent the coolant line from rubbing the alternator housing). I'll try to post a picture later.

 

Wish I had found this thread today before watching the video and breaking my thermostat housing.

 

We have two new thermostats in stock. email me at jim@halltechsystems.com for pricing.