bjones7131

Anyone used the mat that just lays over the carpet in the cargo area, I wouldn't want to disassemble the car to install dynamat?

gurneyeagle

I understand some of the comments concerning the extra weight's effect on performance, but it all depends on what you use the car for.


Nothing wrong with trying to eliminate some of the road noise and drone. Extra 200 lbs? In a 650 hp car that you have no intention of racing, it will have an imperceptible difference in performance.


I would prefer to have it a little quieter on the road as I use my cars for long distance drives. Being able to speak via Bluetooth is aided too.


Enjoy your car OP. I think you made a great move.

CFHay

At 200lbs of dynamat I'd imagine (or hope) that thing is quieter than a new Maybach.

truth.b

OP,

Why did you decide to go with Dynomat versus a lighter material such as ensolite?

xp800

Gents and OP,

The use of Dynamat or any other similar constrained layer damping material only addresses part of the noise equation. They are designed to dampen the vibration of the panels on which applied to reduce the "structure borne" noise - this is the noise created by panels re-radiating (vibrating) into the vehicle's interior.

What these damping materials DO NOT do well is act as a barrier to "block" noise from passing through the panels. This sound transmission phenomenon is something addressed by barrier materials and is measured by the product's sound transmission loss (STL) characteristics. And these characteristics are very frequency dependent based on the construction of the product. Even Dynamat makes a product (DynaPad) to use in conjunction with their damping material. These will tend to have a "composite" construction of different materials of varying densities and stiffness.

Then you have absorbing materials that, like the name says, reduce noise by absorbing the reflected/bouncing sound energy inside cabin; foam, carpet, etc.

All of these three classes of product have distinct applications and limitations. They are effective in certain frequency ranges depending on construction, and they are designed differently based on the acoustical physics they address.

Truthfully, the added mass imparted to the panels when slathered with 100% coverage with a heavy damping material can have a -negative- effect. I'm not saying that this massive application of damping material will do no good or will be worse. I am saying that the point of diminishing returns has been far exceeded, and there is potential to introduce new/other problems at other frequencies.

I think a better use of money (and mass) would have been to apply damping treatment to only about 50% of a panel's area and then use barrier materials to augment. Damping material can be applied in patches and does not require edge sealing (no notion of sound "leakage"), and in general 50% coverage actually gives you almost the same result as 100% coverage (this has published research around it). Barrier materials need to be applied as continuously as possible with sealed/taped edges. Here you do have to control sound leakage - noise will find any holes/gaps to leak through - just like pressurized air. These should be applied over the rear floor and especially over the rear wheel arches, and over any "holes".

Since the tire and road noise tend to a bit higher in frequency and can be more air borne than structure borne, damping materials won't be fully effective. You will need both, and is why many report positive results against road noise with just the simple "block it" type rear cargo floor covers.

There are a ton of on-line resources for this sort of "acoustics 101" stuff. Although the below is marine oriented, the physics and phenomenon are the same in a car (absent water hopefully). Take a look at the other documents on the page as well.

http://www.soundown.com/S101.htm

DSOMonster

Got the car back a few hours ago. YES, much quieter on the inside. No one knew I did the Dynamat procedure. On the way home, my wife called and the bluetooth call was much better. I did not say, "HUH", once! She is not a car girl and always complained about having to scream to talk while driving. She knew the X-Pipe was going in and shook her head when I got home. The Z is NOTICEABLY louder. She said it is going to be even more unbearable inside. I still did not say anything about the Dynamat.

She said, WOW, the X-Pipe made it quieter inside the cabin. I just laughed and agreed.

I would say the Dynamat passed the test!

DSOMonster

I never said I did not want to hear it. I just want the option not to hear the road noise and body/panel noises caused by vibration. The exhaust is a beautiful sound, hence, the exhaust mods I performed. Some of my passengers are not too keen on hearing it all the time.

So in order to have a 650hp monster, you have to live with the road noise? Can't explain that!

moon2605

very cool

DSOMonster

Thanks! Yeah, tearing down the interior like that scared me too. WCC has performed this on 3 C7 Z's so far and many more Stingrays as well as C5s and C6s. Chris, the WCC tech, is very well versed in tearing the car down and putting her back together. I leave it in their hands!

I am just waiting for the blower upgrades from Edlebrock and Maggie to be introduced. The centrifugals are already out so I know what those units are doing! I am leaning ProCharger, but I want to see what the roots style manufacturers bring to the table before I make a decision. The roots blowers should be out this month.

I only have a bit over 7k miles on the car. My tuner wants to see over 12k miles to assure all bugs are worked out before we go pass the point of no return...at least when it comes to the warranty.

Don't worry I will keep y'all posted...Haters or Not!

johnny c

i know the feeling! i used dynamat-ish-sticky-glue-stuff-with-aluminum on my trans tunnel. knocked the heat down quite a bit.
The backing aluminum fell off on a piece under the gas pedal. now whenever i floor it, my shoes get gooo all over them.

DSOMonster

To each their own!

DSOMonster

Here is the SuperChevy magazine write-up.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/int...ette-stingray/

DSOMonster

Thanks GurneyEagle! You just can't make everyone happy all the time, so I choose to make me happy!

You understand!

DSOMonster

Truth,
No other reason other than Dynamat is what I am familiar with. I installed the Crazy Cowboy or ExoticVette system in my C6 and was satisfied. Here is the link to their C7 kit: http://www.exoticvette.com/insulation%20c7.htm

I bought the Z and wanted to take sound deadening up a notch. I am glad I did. The sound deadening from Dynamat is EXACTLY what I was expecting. RaaMat or Ensolite might be just as good, I just have no experience with their product.

That is all.

DSOMonster

FAsnakes, where are you in SoCal. You are more than welcome to come down and hear how much the Dynamat quieted down the cabin. The road and tire noise have been dampened alot.

When WCC did their first few installations, the hump under the center console was not done, the doors were not done and neither was the halo behind the roof panel. 95% of the interior is now covered with Dynamat Extreme.

Don't take my word for it! Come on down and hear it for yourself!

DSOMonster

GTC, not cheap , that is FOR SURE! I will PM you what I paid.

DSOMonster

Truth, i just researched ensolite and that is a sound dampener pad. DynaPad is also installed in my Z over the Dynamat Extreme.

Yeah, I went OVERBOARD...For Sure!

DSOMonster

Guys, XP800 said it in his post: "I think a better use of money (and mass) would have been to apply damping treatment to only about 50% of a panel's area and then use barrier materials to augment. Damping material can be applied in patches and does not require edge sealing (no notion of sound "leakage"), and in general 50% coverage actually gives you almost the same result as 100% coverage (this has published research around it). Barrier materials need to be applied as continuously as possible with sealed/taped edges. Here you do have to control sound leakage - noise will find any holes/gaps to leak through - just like pressurized air. These should be applied over the rear floor and especially over the rear wheel arches, and over any "holes".

We also used DynaPad over the Dynamat Extreme. We did not know what 50% would've been better to install the Extreme over so we just went 100% coverage and applied the DynaPad over the Extreme in the cab area and trunk area.

DSOMonster

Guys, MY BAD! I gave y'all incorrect information. I do not know where I got 200 lbs of added weight from???

Brandon from WCC just emailed me back and he weighed the boxes of Dynamat Extreme and the DynaPad and the added weight was 85 lbs, not freakin' 200 lbs. I am an ABSOLUTE idiot sometimes!

I truly apologize for the error on my part! It caused a bit of a stir and this all on me!

-Ron

RC000E

I've used both methods. For factory hardened vehicle insulation, like you see in most manufactured vehicles, dry ice is the way to go. Bust it all up, spread it around...you smack it with a hammer and most of it comes right up. I've done this many times on track car builds before I installed cages...works like a charm.

With the dynamat, it just didn't work the same...at least on the "extreme" dynamat I was going at. It was too thick for the dry ice to really be effective. End of day, the best method was heat, a putty knife, then chemical cleaners to "liquify" the remaining adhesive. It took a SH*T TON of work.